Body Care - Smooth operator

With plenty of npd and growth in targeted body care products there has been no better time for consumers to obtain the body beautiful. SPC investigates the new claims

Summer conjures up many different thoughts for people - sunshine, holidays, barbeques, beaches, body care... Although not a traditional icon for this time of year, body creams, lotions and gels have been steadily encroaching on our psyche. It is hard to ignore the barrage of advertisements splashed across billboards and television screens all offering the latest slimming, firming, anti-ageing technology, and consumers it seems can’t get enough of it.

Body care is big business - US$9.9bn worth of business to be precise according to Euromonitor, a hike of almost 9% in 2005, and it’s a figure that looks set to continue to grow. Given that the rest of the C&T industry is experiencing real challenges, particularly in the fragrance and cosmetic sectors, it is refreshing to see a category bucking the trend. Cosmetic brands have invested heavily in new product development and marketing campaigns, further underlining the potential for this innovative sector to grow yet further.

Firm favourites

Anti-cellulite and firming products have driven the growth of the body care sector over the last four years in fuelling consumer demand for specific, targeted body products. Despite criticism over some of the bolder claims made by manufacturers over the efficacy of their products, and the fact that the market is still predominantly made up of general purpose moisturising products, this sub sector looks buoyant.

However a survey carried out by market research specialist Mintel and BRMB, a consumer research body, shows the market is not as strong as some predictions. “Despite frenzied npd activity within the anti-cellulite market only 6% of women claim to use these products, highlighting the limited potential of this category or at least the early stage of it,” says Mintel’s Jenny Catlin.

But the majority of industry analysts believe the market shows healthy potential. “The key growth as far as we are concerned by a long shot is anti-cellulites - we expect sales to increase on average 8% each year through to 2010,” says Claire Briney, senior account manager, Euromonitor.

Strong value growth has helped this market boom as products are priced up to twice the amount of a simpler body care product, due to the additional benefits, a factor common in both mass and premium brands. In addition, the staggering growth in the number of cosmetic procedures and subsequent demand for instant ‘fixes’ has encouraged more consumers to try out anti-cellulite creams and lotions. Cosmetic brands are also using the technology from cosmetic surgery to create a new generation of anti-cellulite products.

Christian Dior’s new Plasticity Anti-Cellulite Corrective Gel is marketed as an alternative to invasive procedures like liposuction, promising to smooth cellulite and refine hips by up to 3.3cm after just 30 days use.

A cocktail of ingredients including e-Viniferine, a fat combusting agent said to be 100 times more potent than caffeine, along with myriceline, plectranthus and adipotrack technology is claimed to boost lipolysis and target adipocytes, preventing them from forming new fat cells.

The no needle approach has also been adopted by Dermaglow with its latest offering, Pro-Peptide Advanced Cellulite Therapy. Billed as the only product of its kind to use peptide technology, the anti-cellulite and slimming cream is said to reduce the appearance of dimpled skin by 50%, whilst promoting the breakdown of fat and increasing collagen production in the skin.

Greater knowledge into the formation of cellulite has also allowed Yves Saint Laurent Beauté to update its anti-cellulite portfolio. Profil Minceur is the result of YSL Beauté’s collaboration with the Advanced Cosmetology Scientific Interest Group (GISCA) and is claimed to control the formation process of fat cells. The key ingredient in the formula is Lipo-Fitness II, two plant-derived molecules that help prevent the formation of new fat cells. The complex utilises nanotechnology in the form of encapsulated nanovectors, said to allow the formula to penetrate more effectively into the skin. The result, says YSL is an 85% reduction in the appearance of dimples.

The mass market has also seen its fair share of innovation, most prominently with L’Oréal Paris’ latest offer, PerfectSlim Pro. The new product is described as an ‘electro-cosmetic kit’ and is the result of a partnership between the beauty giant and Philips. The treatment is defined by two steps. Firstly, a massage machine uses suction and rolling techniques to lift and roll the skin, encouraging microcirculation and tissue drainage, then a post massage concentrate containing Pro-Drainyl and Hydraxyl is applied. According to L’Oréal Paris the concentrate helps reduce the appearance of cellulite whilst moisturising skin. But all this technology comes at a price - £54.99 - which for a mass market product is steep.

Facial awareness

“The major brands have borrowed facial skin care technology and used it in body lotions, which has helped to persuade consumers familiar with these concepts to trade up to performance-based products,” says Catlin. Evening products, which have become more popular in skin care, are now making their way into body care. ‘Borrowing’ technology from skin care is not a new practise but these new products are designed to be used in conjunction with their skin care counterparts, offering a head to toe solution to smooth, soft skin.

Following the success of its natural alternative to microdermabrasion for the face, Origins is taking the bold step of launching Modern Friction for the body. The product claims to lighten and smooth ‘age prone’ skin such as the décolleté, forearms and shoulders. The key ingredient is Purple rice (Oryza sativa linne), which has powerful antioxidant and skin evening properties.

Lancôme too has extended its microdermabrasion franchise with Resurface Microdermabrasion body. Inspired directly by dermatological procedures, the product can be used on dull skin, dark spots, roughness and imperfections. A blend of aluminium micro-crystals, pumice stone powder and Physio-Enhancer are said to refine skin to leave it looking radiant.

Cult US spa brand bliss has also entered into new body territory with the launch of steep clean self-heating body polish, an extension to its steep clean skin care line. The new product is described as a two-in-one enzyme exfoliator and skin brightening mask containing pineapple super-zyme to slough off dead skin cells and Smartscrub beads to enhance the exfoliation process.

A main characteristic of the skin care market is undoubtedly the desire by consumers to halt the ageing process and this quest for eternal youth is having a positive impact on body care sales too.

“The increasing affluence due to more women in work who have disposable incomes, and the growth in women aged over 45, who will account for 43.6% of the population by 2008, is having a significant impact on body care,” explains Catlin. “Women over 50 who have the disposable income to spend on body care products are now demanding products formulated to address their needs, such as loss of skin elasticity and age spots.”

Although a relatively new area for npd several premium beauty brands, including Estée Lauder (Renutriv) and Lancôme (Absolu), have already launched anti-ageing body care products addressing the needs of mature skin. And this trend has now filtered down to the mass market.

Nivea Body has led the way in this respect with the creation of Age Defying Lotion, one of the first products of its kind aimed at the mature female consumer. According to a TNS Superpanel survey, 47% of body care users in the UK are over 45 underlining the demand and need for body care products aimed at this consumer segment. Age Defying Lotion contains Creatine, claimed to aid collagen synthesis and improve skin structure and firmness.

At the premium end, Carita and La Prairie are both tapping into lucrative opportunities linked to the ‘silver shopper’ with new launches. La Prairie has extended its Caviar anti-ageing skin collection with Skin Caviar Luxe Body Emulsion. The luxurious formula comes with an equally premium price tag and contains caviar extract and soy protein to help firm lift and tone the skin. In addition, a botanical-based contouring complex helps reduce the formation of cellulite, while an AHA and BHA complex improves skin clarity and tone.

Carita has added La Crème Parfaite for the Body to its Progressif line. The super luxe cream claims to target three types of ageing - induced, hormonal and chronological thanks to a potent blend of ingredients including soy protein hydrolysate, Japanese mushroom, caffeine, shea butter, camellia oil and 24 carat gold particles, said to conceal imperfections and impart a subtle glow to skin.

Masses of appeal

The mass market is driving sales in the body market, with brands trading up on formulations and packaging. “Consumers are preferring to opt for lower priced, more functional ranges,” says Catlin. “Products in this sector offering cosmetic benefits have increased and it is common to see mass brands offering olive oil, omega acids and antioxidant co-enzyme Q10.”

Boots introduced three new body care products to its relaunched Skin Wisdom skin and body care brand. Body Slim Anti-Celluite Gel, described as the hero product of the nine sku line, features co-enzyme A and guarana to help reduce the appearance of cellulite, whilst helping break down fat deposits, resulting in a firminig effect. Other products include Fadeaway Stretchmark Corrector and Silky Touch Body Lotion.

Spa brand Champneys has developed the Spa Essentials Rose Collection, a six sku body line utilising the soothing and toning properties of rose along with vitamin E, cocoa butter and essential oils.

The use of botanical and herbal ingredients also increased significantly in 2005. Provençal beauty brand L’Occitane has swapped Champagne for a detox to celebrate its 30th anniversary this year. The new grape body care line, which launches in September is based around the detoxifying properties of the grape - a first for L’Occitane - and draws on 100 years of Provençal tradition. Ingredients include organic grape juice from Domaine des Tuile Bleues, red vine leaf extract, vitamin E and fatty acids, and the product line up features body scrubs, shower gels, anti-water retention gel and beauty milk.

The Sanctuary has also looked to traditional body rituals with the launch of Boreh Spice. Based on Balinese remedies, the three sku body care line combines clove, ginger, nutmeg and pepper, said to help increase body circulation and relieve tired, aching muscles.

Hand relief

Hand care sales have traditionally been at the mercy of the seasons, with sales peaking in winter due to the cold weather. However a new breed of treatments which focus on the current trend for brightening and clarifying products are helping to drive sales all year round.

Elemis’ new Intensive Hand Repair contains bearberry and lemon, said to suppress the production of melanin and lighten the appearance of age spots on the hands.

Molton Brown, meanwhile has utilised the potent properties of white mulberry bark in its latest hand wash and treatment, White Mulberry. The ingredient is said to promote even skin tone whilst moisturising and protecting the hands.

Hair today...

As small commodity markets go, the depilatory sector is doing rather well. Technology from different sectors of the C&T industry has begun to creep into this category with some surprising results.

Origins took the unusual step of including a shaving mousse in its latest body care collection, Shedonism. Sensuous Shaving Mousse, containing sodium hyaluronate and glycerin to keep legs soft and smooth, is joined by Deeply Hydrating Butter Cream and Intensely Bubbling Bath Syrup to create a complete hair removal solution.

Veet’s new In-Shower Hair Removal Cream contains a water resistant formula, designed to dissolve slowly on contact with water. And Boots was inspired by Parisian beauty treatments with its new hair removal range Smooth Naturally. The collection of nine skus features waxes, depilatory creams and associated treatment products. Each product contains a blend of chamomile and honey, said to help replenish skin as it removes hair. Products include a shaving oil in convenient spray format and a unique peel-off salon wax treatment.

With an even greater choice of products on offer, the body care sector is showing no signs of slowing. But the real driver in this category is the increasingly important older age group for whom skin care is essential for looking good.