As one of the most developed markets in the C&T industry, the bath and shower sector represents one the biggest challenges in terms of innovation. As a result manufacturers are increasingly turning to Mother Nature for inspiration
Whether you do it in the bath or shower, whether it's a quick freshen-up or an indulgent luxury, it's hard to avoid using bathroom products. Commodity products like bath, soap and shower gels are a regular fixture in our bathrooms, yet the level of innovation in recent years has been quite low compared to other sectors of the C&T market.
The maturity of the sector has in many markets compounded NPD, and as a result, consumers have been turning away from traditional mass formats such as shower gels and bar soaps, instead opting for premium or niche brands which offer a point of difference. Retailers have tried to reverse this trend with in-store offers such as Buy One Get One Free (BOGOFs) and other multi buys but consumers are looking for innovation.
"The bath and shower market is not particularly interesting in developed markets," says Euromonitor industry analyst, Diana Dodson. "There's not much scope for innovation, there's only so far manufacturers can go."
This is illustrated in growth rate figures. According to Euromonitor the global bath and shower market only registered 2.9% growth in 2005 to US$23,295.8m, compared to the previous year's figures. Individual sectors fared little better, although there was 5.7% growth in the body wash/shower gel segment and liquid soap rose 5.5%.
However, manufacturers are working on changing consumer attitudes with a renewed focus on innovation. This in turn is increasing segmentation and opening the market up to a wider consumer base.
"The market is seeing an increase in formulation," says assistant buyer for indulgent bathing at Boots, Georgina Fawkes. "Customers expect more than just cleansing from their shower products and manufacturers are acting on this."
Making your mark
So what makes a successful bath and body range in today's market?
"Offering something truly eye-catching and different but which also offers tangible benefits." explains Dodson. "This is a pretty crowded sector already despite attempts at adding value. Manufacturers will have to be pretty inventive to make an impact here."
Taking its lead from this is Soap & Glory, a new bath and shower line developed by Bliss founder Marcia Kilgore. The 14-sku mass market range uses high quality ingredients and features quirkily named products such as Easy Glistening dry oil body gloss, Foam Call body cleansing super mousse and Clean on Me conditioning shower wash with body lotion, inspired by tabloid headlines. What makes this range stand out from her work on Bliss is that the products are priced much lower, retailing between £5 and £9.
"I loved seeing Karl Lagerfeld and Stella McCartney do lines for H&M and make designer level fashion available to all," says Kilgore. "Why shouldn't designer level beauty and spa products be available to the masses too? I think there is still a lot of room in mass distribution for cool brands that are well made, affordable and provide more than your standard volumising shampoo inside offer."
"Soap & Glory has been a real success story," adds Fawkes. "The range combines advanced formulations with bright and quirky packaging, delivered in a fun way."
Unilever's Dove brand has also taken a bold step in opening up the bath and shower category with the launch of a new line aimed specifically at women 45 and over. Dove Pro-Age comprises skin, hair and deodorant products formulated for mature skin and will communicate the message that beauty has no age limit. Beauty Care Body Wash and Body Cream oil represent the bathroom product offer and the products are said to nourish and cleanse mature skin.
Dove brand executive Silvia Fernandez believes the launch, which will be merchandised in a full, cross category format, represents a massive growth opportunity for the brand. "We want to encourage women to trade up to a product that has been specifically designed to nourish mature skin," she explains. "Dove is already a strong favourite amongst this age group and the introduction of the range will cement Dove's position in this market."
Origins too has created a new segment in this sector with the launch of Modern Friction for the body, a microdermabrasion treatment claimed to help lessen the appearance of ageing and pigmentation on sun-exposed areas such as the chest, arms, shoulders and legs. The product contains corn on the cob extract and scutellaria to slough off dead skin cells and brighten skin. In addition, purple rice starch from China neutralises environmental damage, while shea and cupuacu butter restore suppleness.
What's the alternative?
Consumer interest in natural products is spanning all sectors of the C&T industry, but none more so than in the bath and shower category. Recent, and somewhat unfounded consumer concern about the inclusion of some preservatives in bathroom products has prompted many manufacturers to create ranges without these additives.
Luxury perfumery brand Ormonde Jayne's new bath collection is said to be paraben-free as well as free from mineral oils, colouring and GM ingredients. The products are the result of over a year of development and feature bath oils, body lotions and a bath and shower cream.
"The idea behind this new spa range was due to the fact that so many of our US shoppers were requesting creams free of parabens, petrochemicals etc, but still wanted a fine fragrance scent instead of an organic rose or herb," explains founder Linda Pilkington. "It was not easy and the project took over a year. The end result is great though."
Similarly, Crabtree & Evelyn's latest launch, Island Living, a body and home collection created in partnership with designer and model India Hicks, has been formulated without parabens, mineral oil, sodium lauryl sulfate and propylene glycol.
The collection is inspired by Hicks’ life in the Caribbean and features several indigenous ingredients including the spider lily, hibiscus, coconut and seaweed, said to nourish, protect and hydrate skin. Products include bath salts, shower gel, hand wash, body polish and triple milled soap.
Also flying the flag for additive alternatives is Naked, a mass market line that claims to use 97% natural ingredients in its range of body cleansing and moisturising products. The line, includes key actives sourced and bottled without parabens, petrochemicals and sulfates. New products include Starflower Undressed Softening bath soak and Rice Revealed Nourishing bath essence.
Floris has also seen the potential growth of this trend, formulating its new organic body care line without sulphates, parabens, mineral oils or aroma chemicals. The fragrances used in the Natural Benefits collection have been created from natural essential oils, according to Floris.
"Products with certified organic claims and alternatives to preservatives are proving very popular," says Dodson. "Companies are increasing consumers' access to organic products by creating these lines but they need to substantiate their position as the naturalness of many natural lines is in question."
Private label
The popularity in organic has also reached private label. Boots took great notice of this when it relaunched its Botanics range. The health and beauty retailer worked closely with the Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew, London when formulating the range, and the institution has authenticated all the botanicals in its toiletries range. The revamped collection features over 100 skus and contains 25 botanical extracts.
Tesco has created an organic line within its ambitious C&T private label overhaul. The bnatural collection contains active botanicals and a variety of organic extracts, and is free of artificial colours and synthetic fragrances. "We've created this range to cater for a growing number of our customers who tell us they want a high performance range that is inspired by natural ingredients but without a premium price tag," explains Tesco senior buyer for beauty, Alex Holt.
Alongside the bnatural line, Tesco has created two additional private label collections - Body Therapy Spa and Finest - the latter being divided into three sub categories: fragrance, gourmand and classic.
The Body Therapy Spa collection draws on the ongoing popularity of spa products and comprises four ranges - Serenity, Vitality, Detox and Smooth & Svelte - each developed for a different need. The creation of a private label spa collection also demonstrates how the trend, which was previously only available to a privileged few, has filtered down to the mainstream.
"Spas are now more accessible than ever but few people have the time or money to invest regularly in this kind of indulgence," explains Fawkes. "Therefore taking a bath or shower may be one of the only times in the day for many busy modern women when they can enjoy some me-time without interruption, so products that enhance this experience are key."
Lastly, Tesco's Finest range includes classic, a range of premium body and face products developed in conjunction with New York stylist Leslie Fremar, and gourmand, which was developed with chef and author Sophie Michell. The line is divided into two food-based themes of Vanilla Crème and Tarte au Citron.
Food for thought
The use of food as an ingredient in bath and shower gels is not a new phenomenon but as R&D into this area increases, so does the number of food-inspired products on the shelves.
"It's something we're seeing throughout cosmetics and toiletries," says Dodson. "The links between food and beauty have become well understood and food-based bath and shower products also tap into the popular natural ingredients trends. But food does more than just care for the skin, it also enhances mood and has a pleasing aroma."
L'Occitane has utilised the detoxifying properties of grape in its new Detoxifying Grape body care range. The range includes Crushed-Grape Polish, Warming Body Wrap and Shower Oil, which all contain organic grape juice. The French brand has also developed a body and fragrance collection centred on the Seville orange. The Ruban d'Orange collection includes Sunny Shower, a shower gel featuring a pulp-like texture similar to orange pulp; Soft Skin Scrub, a marmalade-textured exfoliator, and an orange-shaped soap.
Molton Brown meanwhile has incorporated the antioxidant properties of the yuzu fruit into its bath and shower offering, Enlivening Toko-Yuzu bath & shower.
The Sanctuary has sourced fruit, honey and even alcoholic drinks for its new signature bath and shower ranges. The four lines are inspired by traditional spa rituals from around the world and include indigenous ingredients for authenticity. Sento, for instance, based on Japanese bathing rituals, contains Sake and Wasabi extracts, while Lomi Lomi, inspired by Hawaiian massage, contains Macadamia nut and coconut.
The Body Shop also tapped into this trend, launching a bath and body line based around pink grapefruit. The six-sku line features food inspired names including Pink Grapefruit Body Puree, as well as a body exfoliator and bath & shower gel.
Dodson predicts the trend for food-based bathroom products has plenty of growing room and is well positioned to take advantage from neighbouring trends.
"Aphrodisiacal beauty products are set to be a big emerging trend and food-based products are perfectly placed to tap into this. It also fits with the pampering nature of many bath and shower products, and lends it a feel of indulgence without the guilt."
Limited appeal
Taking its cue from the fragrance world, bath and shower products are increasingly seeing seasonal and limited edition launches to try and increase consumer spending.
Imperial Leather launched two limited edition bath and shower fragrances inspired by the spa rituals of Thailand and Tahiti. Thai Fusion comprises a bath foam and shower drench infused with a blend of pomegranate and hibiscus milk, while Tahitian Retreat contains seaweed and sea minerals. The ingredients in the bath foam and shower gel are activated by warm water and steam.
Radox meanwhile, has joined forces with the British Heart Foundation (BHF) in the UK to create the Heart Warming range, a hand wash, shower cream and herbal bath containing chamomile and red berries, developed to raise awareness of the BHF's annual Valentines appeal.
Despite some limitations for innovation, manufacturers are finding ways to inject some much needed life back into the bath and shower market. However, as modern day living dictates how consumers spend their time and money, such as the reduction in the number of bathrooms with baths, manufacturers need to adapt to this in order to stay ahead of the game.