True to nature

Published: 3-Oct-2014

From emulsifiers to potent actives, nature provides a wealth of cosmetic solutions. John Woodruff takes a look at some of the most recent natural ingredient launches

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Natural must be the most overworked and ill-defined term in cosmetic marketing. This feature is going to focus on ingredients that are truly natural, and active materials that have been extracted from any part of land and marine plants. First, however, it will look at emulsifiers that are derived from natural materials and which enable natural certification to be claimed.

High performance emulsifiers

An example of a naturally derived emulsifier is Emulium Mellifera from Gattefossé, which was awarded a gold medal at the in-cosmetics Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Awards 2014. Described as a sensorial emulsifier [INCI: Polyglyceryl-6 distearate, jojoba esters, polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, cetyl alcohol], it is said to adapt to the environment. In cold or dry conditions, it creates a soft, comfortable film of protection on the skin and in hot and humid conditions, it stabilises the sensory properties, leaving the skin less heavy and less greasy with a lower perceptible film. Emulium Mellifera forms oil-in-water (o/w) emulsions and is said to be particularly well-suited to low viscosity formulations. It is Ecocert and COSMOS compliant, shows significant moisturising properties and is pH stable from pH4-pH10.

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