Having to cope with acne can be a miserable experience for teenagers. The following ingredients are investigated that can help manage and alleviate the condition
Whereas the majority of our body organs undergo changes hidden from view, our skin is very visible and certainly our facial skin is there for all to see. It is extremely unfortunate that as children reach their teens and start to take an interest in their appearance and in how others see them, their skin, which has most probably remained unblemished throughout childhood, should break out in blackheads, white spots, pimples and, horror of all horrors, acne.
Acne is an inflammation of the skin associated with blackheads, whiteheads and red spots. The most common type of acne is acne vulgaris, which appears most often on the face, but also on chest, back and upper arms. Acne affects about 90% of adolescents as well as 20% to 30% of individuals aged 20 to 40 years old and accounts for more doctor visits than any other skin problem. It can be upsetting and disfiguring and cause psychosocial problems and lead to serious and permanent scarring.
Eating chips and chocolate normally has nothing to do with acne. Greasy hair and skin also do not cause acne, but are often a sign of overactive sebaceous glands, which can cause acne. The hormones, and particularly androgen, that are active during puberty, trigger sebaceous glands to produce more sebum and the extra sebum produced can block follicles. The oil is then oxidised by air, turns black and hardens to form a comedone or blackhead. This may then become infected by bacteria, particularly Propionibacterium acnes, to form a white pimple. Research suggests that stress may worsen acne and it does appear to be genetically related. It is more common among Caucasians than Asians or people of African descent.
Propionibacterium acnes is named after its ability to generate propionic acid and is an anaerobic gram positive organism. It is present on most people’s skin and lives on fatty acids in the sebaceous glands and sebum secreted by pores. When a pore is blocked its growth rate multiplies rapidly and it secretes lipases that break down the wall of the pore, spilling bacterial antigens, fatty acids and bacteria such as Staphylococcus aureus into the skin, forming an acne lesion.
Sources of information
Acne is a subject that dominates teenage magazines and websites and is targeted by many cosmetic companies and cosmetic ingredient suppliers, although no claim to treat acne by cosmetic products may be made under EU legislation. Inputting teenage skin into Google returns more than 1.5 million hits! Applying finer filters finds many informative and unbiased, ie not overtly commercial, sites offering information and advice, sometimes conflicting. A general consensus is that skin and hair must be kept clean and irritation avoided. One site records that when their complexions are less than perfect, many teens panic and try harsh treatments that can actually make the condition worse. Instead, they should give their skin some tender loving care and relax and use treatments that will help clean, tone and eventually clear up troubled skin.
Propionibacterium species can generally be treated with antibiotics used for the treatment of anaerobic infections and benzoyl peroxide is also effective. However, these materials are not allowed in cosmetic products in Europe. It would appear that a sensible cosmetic approach would be to reduce the production of sebum, to cleanse the skin without irritation, to avoid the use of ingredients known to cause comedones and to use skin treatments that will soften and draw out impurities from the hair follicle. Finally the skin should be left clean and free from irritants and infections.
Cleansing approaches
The starting point is gentle cleansing and various surfactants are suggested. From McIntyre, Mackanate DC-100 [INCI: Disodium PEG-12 dimethicone sulfosuccinate], is derived from water soluble silicone copolymers and is an extremely mild water soluble, anionic sulfosuccinate surfactant recommended for hair and skin care products. Another silicone-based material suitable for face washes is Cocosil [INCI: Cetrimonium laureth-12 succinate with PEG-7 dimethicone], a very mild silicone/surfactant complex available from Biosil Basics.
Alkyl polyglucosides are often selected for their mild cleansing properties; Colonial Chemicals produce a number of sulfonated polyalkyl polyglucosides that are shown to be extremely mild in eye and skin irritation studies. They are trade named as Poly SugarNates [INCI: Sodium decylglucosides hydroxypropylsulfonate] and are suitable for foaming facial cleansers for teenage skin. Sugar chemistry is also the source of Tegosoft LSE 65K from Degussa. It is a blend of sucrose esters with fatty acid esters based on coconut oil [INCI: Sucrose cocoate], produced from natural, renewable sources. It is mild, has good refatting properties, gives a dense creamy lather when combined with other surfactants and thickens in surfactant systems. A similar material is available from Croda as Crodester SL40.
Sucrose esters are non-ionic emulsifiers obtained by esterifying sucrose with edible fatty acids and are claimed to reduce the irritating properties of anionic surfactants, to improve the sensorial properties of formulations in terms of skin feel and skin mildness and to have antimicrobial properties. The effectiveness of microbe inhibition depends on the chain length of the fatty acid and the degree of substitution. Sucrose esters with a shorter fatty acid chain length and a higher monoester content have better antimicrobial properties and recommended for investigation are Sisterna L70-C [INCI: Sucrose laurate] and Sisterna SP70-C [INCI: Sucrose stearate].
Betafin BP20 from Finnfeeds is derived from sugar beet and is claimed to be ideal for moisturising and conditioning the skin and it also reduces the irritancy of anionic surfactants. Other mild surfactants suitable for face washes include Ressasol AGO [INCI: Sodium olivamphoacetate] and Ressasol AGP [INCI: Sodium palmoamphoacetate] from Res Pharma. A number of amphoacetates are also available under the Vamasoft trade name from Vama Farmacosmetica. The Plantapon materials from Cognis are based on alkyl glucosides and Plantapon LGC Sorb is a mixture of lauryl glucoside carboxylate and lauryl glucoside. It shows improved foaming characteristics when compared to lauryl glucoside alone, has an excellent sensory profile and can be used as the primary surfactant or combined with SLES/CAPB systems. Ajinomoto produces a number of glutamate-based surfactants that are also very mild in action.
Many other surfactants are suitable for mild facial washes including sodium caproyl lactylate, said to be an excellent foam booster and stabiliser when used in conjunction with cocamidopropyl betaine and alkyl polyglucosides. Sodium lauroyl isethionate is claimed to have a very low irritation potential and sodium lauroyl sarcosinate is said to foam well, have good cleaning properties and be mild to use.
For more in depth cleansing a mask or scrub may be used and for optimum results the services of a qualified beauty therapist are recommended. The review of teenage treatments by Penny Turvey (p23) described many that are available; the use of enzymes such as papain and bromelain to digest the plug of hardened sebum in a comedone being of particular interest. A&E Connock provides an extract of Ananas sativus (pineapple) with 0.25% bromelain content and Libiol supplies Enzymatic Peel that has bromelain and papain in mannitol. Face masks often use natural oils to soften and dissolve comedones and kaolin to draw out impurities. Zinc oxide has a mildly astringent action and is popular in soothing preparations including products for a greasy skin.
Sebum control
Many ingredients are claimed to reduce sebaceous gland activity. Seborilys from Greentech has sebo-regulator properties that are associated with the anti-androgenic activity of macrocyclic tannins contained in Epilobium angustifolium. This effect is reinforced by the astringent activity of Terminalia chebula and the cleaning effect of zinc obtained from a culture of microalgae. The active ingredients are supplied in liposome form to increase absorption into the skin. Also from Greentech and claimed to reduce production of sebum are Phytelene Complexes EGX 247 BG based on extracts of burdock, sage, lemon, watercress, ivy and soapwort and Phytelene Complexes EGX 252 BG based on extracts of burdock, lemon, hops, St John’s Wort, sage, marigold and soapwort.
According to Greentech, burdock has antiseptic properties towards staphylococcus and hops have antiseptic properties while the essential oils of sage and St John’s Wort help absorption of all the active ingredients and have anti-inflammatory and antiseptic properties. Lemon is antiseptic and healing and marigold soothes and heals skin irritations and has anti-allergenic properties. Saponosides of soapwort have mild detergent properties and help to clean skin impurities.
Lucas Meyer suggests a blend trade named Matipure comprising phospholipids, magnesium aluminium silicate, black cumin seed oil and pumpkin seed oil, which combines high adsorption of sebum with a mattifying effect. Lucas Meyer also supplies Linumine [INCI: Linum usitatissimum (Linseed) seed extract] for the treatment of oily skin and to minimise pores and blackheads. Lignans are a group of polyphenolic compounds containing a 2.3-dibenzylbutane skeleton and linseed provides 75-200 times more plant lignans than any other source. The main lignan in linseed is secoisolariciresinol diglucoside, which plays a major role in the sebum rate decrease by inhibiting the activity of 5-Alpha reductase.
From Jan Dekker comes Liquorice Extract P-U, a water soluble extract from Glycyrrhiza inflata root that includes the flavonoid licochalcone A, which has antimicrobial activity against gram positive bacteria, is an antioxidant and free radical scavenger and inhibits 5?-reductase activity. Data and photographic evidence provided by Jan Dekker shows significant reduction in spots and lesions in females suffering from acne when treated with Liquorice Extract P-U for a period of four weeks.
Expanscience Laboratories produce 5-Alpha Avocuta via a bio-enzyme process that results in trans-esterification of the methyl esters of avocado oil to butyl esters, which are shown to have a significant effect on reducing 5?-reductase activity. Extensive data available from Expanscience illustrates the effectiveness of this ingredient in reducing sebum production and how this results in a clearer skin, free from acne-type lesions. Seborami from Alban Muller contains extracts from burdock and erysimum that have high sulphur content; the AHAs, citric and glycolic acid and zinc pidolate, the zinc salt of 2-pyrolidone 2 carboxylic acid. The AHAs result in mild exfoliation of the epidermis and the extracts and zinc salt have a mild antimicrobial action that inhibits contamination of the hair follicles by Propionibacterium acnes.
Rahn markets Seboclear, a mixture of Plantago lanceolata leaf extract, Berberis aquifolium extract and sodium salicylate in aqueous-alcoholic solution. Described as a triple-active complex, which has antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and keratolytic effects, it may be added to mild cleansers, incorporated in daily use skin care foams and is suggested as an active ingredient for oil-free creams and gels for care of acne-prone skin. It is claimed that the Plantago lanceolata content prevents subsequent inflammation occurrences of the skin, the Berberis aquifolium has an antibacterial effect and the salicylic acid has a keratolytic effect and prevents blockages of the sebaceous gland. Seboclear is said to demonstrably reduce the number of comedones and blackheads without signs of irritation.
Salicylic acid is a well established keratolytic agent found in numerous products for acne-prone skin. It has good exfoliating and moisturising activity and can penetrate into the pores, thus helping in the removal of blackheads. Salicylic acid can be used in combating acne, wrinkles and cutaneous ageing. In its exfoliating role, it facilitates the penetration of other actives by thinning the skin, thus maximising their efficacy. It is a sebum regulator and a potential anti-inflammatory agent. Chemyunion has encapsulated salicylic acid in cyclodextrin and claims that this improves its dispersion on the skin and its penetrative powers into the pores. Its release from the cyclodextrin capsules is slow and controlled and this avoids unnecessary overloads of the active and it can decrease eventual irritation or skin sensitising.
Salicylic acid is present in the bark of the willow, Salix alba, and is the source of ABS White Willow Bark Extract Powder marketed by Active Concepts. It is an off-white, water soluble, impalpable powder with a standardised activity greater than 50% salicylic acid. It can be readily incorporated into aqueous and anhydrous systems. The black willow, Salix Nigra, is the source of the salicins present in liposomal form in Brookosome Willow Bark from Arch Personal Care Products. Arch maintains that entrapment of the willow active in a liposomal delivery system helps to enhance its compatibility with skin and to be capable of delivering the active deep into the stratum corneum. Salicins work well on problem skin to control the skin’s natural flora, often a cause of mild irritation, and the phospholipid liposome delivers extra moisture to the skin, helping to overcome the drying effect often associated with the use of salicins. Tannins, which are also present, have been shown to have an antioxidant effect, enabling them to capture highly reactive free radicals and to minimise lipid peroxidation in the cell membranes, hence the extract will contribute a calming and soothing effect to skin.
Ajidew ZN-100 [INCI: Zinc PCA] from Ajinomoto is a dual action material. In solution the zinc reacts with short chain fatty acids and thus reduces the oily appearance of sebum and the PCA is pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, which is a humectant associated with the natural moisturising factor of the skin. Zinc PCA has mild antimicrobial properties and also inhibits 5?-reductase activity and it also inhibits the production of activator protein-1, which plays a part in reducing collagen production in older skin. Also of Japanese origin, Rose Fruit Extract BG-01 [INCI: Rosa multiflora fruit extract] from Maruzen Pharmaceuticals has an astringent effect and minimises the size of the pores, thus reducing their ability to secrete excessive quantities of sebum. The skin surrounding an enlarged pore is covered with incomplete keratinised cells and is rough and dry. It is important to moisturise skin around pores to make enlarged pores soft and smooth and less visible, which rose fruit extract is claimed to do.
Excessive sebum makes the skin oily and shiny but make-up can contribute to blocked pores and exacerbate the problem. Unfortunately teenage girls are at the age when they most want to experiment with make-up so using products that include sebum regulators and powders that absorb oil is a sensible course of action. Modified corn starches from National Starch are available in several grades: Dry-Flo AF is a hydrophobically modified natural polymer, which imparts a smooth, velvety feel in a variety of topical personal care and cosmetic products such as powders and make-up, and it mitigates the unpleasant, heavy, oily feel of the oils, esters and waxes often used in these formulations. Dry-Flo PC [INCI: Aluminium starch octenylsuccinate], is a modified starch in the form of a dry powder that strongly absorbs water and oils and improves non-aqueous systems by reducing tack and greasiness.
Poly-Pore E500 is an allyl methacrylate crosspolymer from Amcol Health & Beauty Solutions that is supplied as an absorbent free flowing powder recommended for use in facial masks, loose and pressed powders and liquid make-up to provide sebum control and reduce irritation. Bambusa arundinacea stem extract is a white powder from Greentech obtained from a bamboo that has deposits of silica in the cell walls of the stem and is offered as an alternative to mineral powders. It has a very high oil absorption capacity due to its high porosity and applications include loose or compact powders, eye shadows, blush, liquid make-up and lipsticks.
Toshiki Pigment Co suggests LDR Rose Shape Powder [INCI: Calcium carbonate], which has high oil absorption properties. This modified form of calcium carbonate has a relatively small surface area with large interstitial gaps and is capable of absorbing more than 100ml of oil per 100g of powder. The supplier suggests that by absorbing the principal oils in sebum it is prevented from forming comedones. Finally, under the trade name Active Powder Purity LS 9695, Laboratoires Sérobiologiques promotes a mixture of actives including niacinamide, yeast extract, Aesculus hippocastanum (horse chestnut) seed extract, algae extract, ammonium glycyrrhizate, panthenol, zinc gluconate, caffeine and biotin. It was developed to reduce excess of sebaceous secretion via inhibition of the 5?-reductase enzyme and is suggested for all types of make-up formulations.
... And finally, most teenagers grow out of the acne years by their early 20s if not before.
Featured companies
- Companies:
- A and E Connock Perfumery and Cosmetics
- Active Concepts