The truth about beauty creams?

Published: 15-May-2008

The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Perfumery Association (CTPA) has said it is “extremely disappointed” in the Dispatches programme which went out on the UK’s Chanel 4 on Monday 12 May. The programme makers said many anti-ageing products did not meet their efficacy claims and questioned the validity of the science behind them.


The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Perfumery Association (CTPA) has said it is “extremely disappointed” in the Dispatches programme which went out on the UK’s Chanel 4 on Monday 12 May. The programme makers said many anti-ageing products did not meet their efficacy claims and questioned the validity of the science behind them.

“The cosmetics industry takes pride in its investment in rigorous science, its adherence to the strict regulation of safety and of claims and in its ability to create products with longevity that consumers choose to enjoy again and again,” says the CTPA. “It also takes pride in its transparency with the Advertising Standards Authority (ASA), Clearcast and all government competent authorities, which reinforces the credibility of the industry’s science and its claims.”

The CTPA challenges four key claims made about safety, credible science, sales practices and marketing and promotion.

On safety, the use and levels of use of vitamin A was questioned, while the CTPA points out that retinyl esters and retinol have a long history of safe use in cosmetics while retinoic acid (vitamin A acid) is prohibited and therefore not used.

On credible science, the CTPA points out the huge investment of time and R&D in skin care product development and the provision of transparent and robust evidence to government bodies, trading standards, Clearcast and the ASA. In contrast, it notes the Dispatches programme used only a small sample of five per product, no control, inappropriate test equipment and demonstrated a lack of repeatability.

On sales practices, it is pointed out that it is not in the interests of the industry to secure one-off, misleading sales and that a nationally recognised qualification has been introduced to train cosmetics sales staff.

And while the programme implied that cosmetics companies exert undue influence on product reviewers, one beauty editor interviewed pointed out that there was actually only enough space to include products that worked. After all, who wants to know about products that don't work?

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