Harley Street cosmetic derma surgeon Mario Luca Russo talks exclusively to Emma Reinhold about his new skin care range and flagship medispa
Dr Russo is a man who doesn’t do things by halves. Not content with debuting his eponymous skin care range later this year, the anti-ageing derma surgeon is also opening an ambitious flagship medispa in the same month, as well as making time for perhaps the most life-changing launch of all, the birth of his first child.
“November is going to be an exceptional month for us,” he says. “And we are all looking forward to it.”
The Dr RUSSO skin care is being hailed as a first in the industry as it challenges the current thinking on sun protection, identifying a new way to increase consumer compliance to SPF. One of the main challenges surrounding sun protection is consumer compliance on the amount of sun cream used to obtain the recommended SPF level. The current accepted test method to determine a level of SPF is to apply 2mg of product per sq cm, but according to Russo, most consumers are applying half of that and therefore exposing themselves to sun damage.
“From the moment you have exposure to natural light you should be protected. As a scientist I know that sun damage can be prevented,” he explains. “UV exposure is the same all year round and we need to educate consumers on this. And 80% of the ageing process can be prevented with the correct SPF so why aren’t consumers paying attention? The problem is that consumers do not apply the amount of sun cream needed to reach compliance levels and without the correct dosage a specific formulation of SPF30 will effectively translate to an SPF of 10.”
In creating his new 10 sku line Russo considered the consumer aspect of sunscreen application and developed a new generation of protective skin care that is efficacious at lower application densities, (1.0mg/sq cm), comparable to the amount usually applied by consumers and therefore helping to reduce the amount of photodamage. According to Russo it is the first skin care brand to develop an SPF product effective at less than 2mg/sq cm.
“The ideal skin care range is very simple - clean and exfoliate your skin daily, protect the skin from sun damage during the day and nourish it at night,” he continues. “The protection starts from the very first product you use, a daily cleanser with SPF 15. We have incorporated a special wash-on technology, that delivers a complex of three UVA/B sunscreens while it’s cleansing the skin, the first product of its kind to have this.”
The range is divided into products for normal/oily and dry skin. Other products in the range include Sun Protective Day Cleanser with SPF15, for all skin types, containing vitamins A, C and E, pomegranate, phytoidebenone, glycolic acid and wash-on technology with SPF15; Repairing Night Exfoliating Cleanser for all skin types, Sun Protective Day Moisturizer SPF30, containing sunscreen filters and antioxidants; Sun Protective Tinted Day Moisturizer SPF30, for all skin types, a Repairing Night Serum with Active Ingredients for normal, oily and dry skin, and a Repairing Night Eye Contour Cream.
A core of four daily products is needed to achieve optimum results, according to Russo, and the line has been developed with the latest FDA and European guidelines for sun care formulation and labelling. The packaging, designed by Pearlfisher, reflects the simplicity of the line and has a minimalist, clean feel.
BOTOX AND A MANICURE
In addition to the launch of the new skin care range, Russo is to launch a premium medispa in the new Westfield shopping centre in west London. Occupying 5000sq ft, the spa will offer the latest in anti-ageing treatments including botox, Thermage, Fraxel, cosmetic dentistry, laser ophthalmic surgery, laser hair removal and facial rejuvenation, balanced with a more holistic offering of signature massages and anti-ageing facials.
“Dr Russo MediSpa will be a world class medispa, offering the latest anti-ageing treatments available. There is no conveyor belt aspect, customers can sit and relax,” adds Russo. “For instance our nail bar is a champagne nail bar, offering manicures in luxurious surroundings as well as a glass of champagne.”
The will also feature a high-end cosmetic boutique offering 15 skin care brands including a selection of organic, cosmeceutical and premium skin care lines, personally selected by Russo.
Dr Russo may not be a household name yet, but the combination of anti-ageing and sun protection technology could herald a new era for skin care. “My brand is very unique to the market and I hope I can transform current thinking and get consumers to invest in their skin.”