With brands promising ever greater skin care benefits from their latest launches, does the consumer really still believe in the miracle in a bottle approach to anti-ageing?
When a customer buys a skin care product, what are they actually getting? A cosmetic? A cosmeceutical? A medicine? The last few months have thrown this debate wide open, with claims and counter claims, television documentaries and near stampedes in some beauty aisles, all in the quest for a youthful complexion.
When it comes to saving face, the miracle in a pot routine no longer washes with consumers, and manufacturers are being pressured into providing more information on their products in a bid to keep consumers brand loyal. So what has prompted this big beauty debate?
Somewhere between the science, the marketing and the advertising, skin care has lost its identity. Given the sheer size and diversity of the sector this is understandable. Industry analyst Euromonitor International estimates the global skin care market was worth just over US$60bn in 2006, and as consumers become more educated and comfortable with the advanced technologies and ingredients on offer the sector has fragmented, moving in numerous different and confusing directions, which is driving the market, but leaving the door open for misunderstanding.
Independent beauty consultant Wendy Lewis believes that this is a crucial time for manufacturers to judge consumer mood towards skin care, and misreading the signs could be detrimental to brands. “In today's market, consumers are sophisticated and ask hard questions - you can't just go in with marketing claims,” she says. “The industry has come a long way from the days when 'reduces wrinkles by 65%' was enough to woo customers and instil loyalty in your brand.”
Daniela Rinaldi, head of perfumery and concessions at luxury retailer Harvey Nichols agrees. “The skin care market has gathered momentum and we are seeing an absolute feeding frenzy at the moment,” she tells SPC. “Customers have become much more savvy in the products they are purchasing and are more interested in the scientific claims behind these creams.”
The power and momentum that this trend is having on sales of skin care products was underlined by the recent Protect & Perfect phenomenon experienced by UK retailer Boots. As part of the BBC's Horizon documentary on the efficacy of cosmetics, a team of Manchester University scientists, led by dermatologist Chris Griffiths, produced favourable results for Boots' No7 Protect and Perfect Beauty Serum, agreeing that it did live up to the retailer's claims, if not more.
What happened next was a marketer's dream. Special store openings, consumers fighting in the aisles, restrictions on the number of bottles bought and a waiting list of 50,000 women has made Protect & Perfect Boots' fastest selling product ever, flying off its shelves across the country within hours. The retailer had to produce an extra 200,000 bottles to cope with demand, and the product was even sold at hugely inflated prices on ebay.
Steve Barton, senior development chemist, No7 was not only pleased with the results but also with the move to present the public with greater scientific information “The whole programme showed the science behind cosmetics, as well as proving that underlying problems behind ageing skin can be addressed by the anti-ageing products.”
Similarly, research on an anti-wrinkle cream containing vitamin A was recently shown to reduce wrinkles in elderly people in tests performed by Michigan University Medical School experts and the findings were published in the journal Archives of Dermatology. Although the name of the cream tested was not revealed, scientists did confirm that it contained topical retinol. As a result of this media attention, retailers have reported an increase in sales of retinol-based creams.
Clearly there is untapped potential on a colossal scale for brands to provide qualitative, independent testing to reassure consumers on the efficacy of the products they are buying. However, some in the industry have questioned how far cosmetic products and product testing can legitimately go before becoming too blurred with the medical industry, and the term 'cosmetic' becoming redundant.
Barton believes current tests for the efficacy of a skin care products are more than adequate. “The industry has a clear understanding of cosmetics and pharma brands and the evaluation techniques in place reflect this.”
Science fact, not fiction
Despite debate over the cosmetic/medicine issue, many of today's most popular skin care treatments were initially developed for medical conditions. The growing acceptance of the new technologies and ingredients in C&T has ironically acted as a catalyst for many manufacturers and the number of skin care products offering 'no knife facelifts' and 'scalpel-free skin rejuvenation' continues to flood the market with little sign of a slowdown. These cosmeceutical products, once only found in a handful of selective retailers, are now firmly established in the mainstream.
“Consumer addiction to youthful skin has moved beyond needles, scalpels and lasers into the rapidly emerging world of cosmeceutical treatments,” explains Lewis. “Recent technological advancements have allowed skin care marketers to develop products that target more specific consumer needs such as anti-ageing and anti-acne. As a result, consumer attitudes have changed in many ways. More women today, for example, believe that using the right skin care can make a visible improvement to their skin.”
One of the most controversial products to grace our shelves in 2007 is Amatokin. The result of more than a decade of stem cell research, Amatokin is claimed to be the first and only topical compound to highlight the expression of stem cell markers in skin. The product works by kick-starting dormant cells, helping to reduce the appearance of both deep and superficial wrinkles, leaving skin smooth and luminous.
The product has built up something of a cult status among consumers with significant waiting lists and products rumoured to be kept behind the counter by certain retailers for only their truly 'valued' customers. Many industry insiders however remain undecided on the merits of these kinds of products.
“These new formulations push the envelope between science, technology and cosmetics but the claims seem to be getting out of control,” says Lewis. “Without hard scientific data that skin care products used topically can have an effect on DNA and stem cells, the industry may be at risk of misleading customers.”
More worryingly, pharmaconutritionist, Paul Clayton believes that because this is such new ground for cosmetics, not enough research has been done to assess the potential health risks to the consumer.
“Epidermal Growth Factor is an interesting new approach to correcting ageing skin, and may well have the capacity to reduce wrinkles, but like other non-specific growth factors such as polyamines, there is a risk that unhealthy (ie cancerous) cells may be stimulated along with healthy skin cells,” he warns. “As cancer cells are more likely to occur in sun aged skin, and the owners of sun aged skin will be at the head of the queue to purchase these new creams, there is a distinct possibility that we will see an increase in the numbers of skin cancers.”
It's frightening food for thought although only theory, and such risks have not discouraged manufacturers from continuing to push the boundaries of cosmetic science.
The notion of botox-like effects delivered in a topical format are already established in skin care products, but Panagea Laboratories claims to have developed the next generation of botox alternative products. Medik8 Pretox Infin8 is an anti-wrinkle octapeptide elongated from the Argireline hexapeptide and is claimed to be the most powerful topical muscle relaxant currently available on the market.
“Because there's nothing stronger than Infin8, users can expect 30% more botox-like effects - several testers even reported an instant decrease in wrinkles and fine lines too,” says Pangea medical director and pharmacologist, Elliot Isaacs.
Another claimed world first is Pro-Ferm, a range of cosmeceutical and nutriceutical products, said to work on the body's immune system, strengthening it, boosting cellular regeneration and improving skin tone. Central to the range is a combination of the beta-glucan Glucaferm and Hyaferm that stimulate the skin's Langerhans cells.
“We've oversanitised our environment and our innate immune system has become slack,” explains Clayton, part of the team behind Pro-Ferm. “Pro-Ferm works by firstly improving the skin's immune defences and secondly speeding up the rate of skin regeneration and healing. Not only that, but beta glucan, via improving local immunity, protects against micro-organisms that could otherwise cause disease and clear away damaged cells. I think this is probably the biggest advance in non-invasive anti-ageing treatments we have seen yet. It sets the bar for the next generation of products.”
Microdermabrasion & a massage
The rise of the cosmeceutical has been attributed to the growing popularity of cosmetic procedures, which are now considered a necessary element of skin care maintenance by both dermatologists and consumers.
According to the British Association of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons (BAAPS), the number of surgical procedures undertaken in 2006 increased by 31.2%, with anti-ageing procedures such as face lifts, eyelid surgery and brow lifts showing a steady rise in popularity, increasing 44%, 48% and 50% respectively.
“These figures reflect the growing acceptance of aesthetic surgery, particularly anti-ageing, which I attribute to technical advances that improve safety and reduce costs, and the continued media coverage which provides the public with an idea of what surgical procedures can achieve, ” says Douglas McGeorge, BAAPS president.
This popularity has given way to a new breed of medispas that promise to bring Harley Street to the high street and offer peels, microdermabrasion, laser treatment and injectables in the glossy tranquillity of departments stores, day spas and health clubs.
Harvey Nichols' Beyond Spa concept is leading the way in what a modern medispa can offer. The concept, which opened in December 2006, is the brainchild of American plastic surgeon Barry Cohen who has gathered together a carefully selected team of on-site doctors and trained medical aestheticians. The concept is to work around the busy lifestyles of patients, opening in the evening and at weekends, helping to minimise the wait between treatments.
“The vision is to bring the integrated approach to better skin health to customers, delivered by doctors,” explains Cohen. “Harvey Nichols shared this vision and sense of the importance of quality medical-led treatments, particularly in a space where most groups are simply focused on the potential revenue, but bring neither seriousness to what procedures are offered, nor real expertise in the medical aesthetic space.”
Cohen believes that the integrity behind Beyond Spa sets it apart from some less authentic organisations that purport to be medispas. He is quick to say that he only treats patients that require procedures - so not just anyone can walk in and get Botox. “Some people don't need Botox, just as some will not benefit from laser treatments,” he explains.
Practise elsewhere is less professional, and as guidelines for the regulation of practises such as Botox is at best patchy, consumers are risking serious skin damage in some establishments. The UK government has said the regulation of Botox should be spearheaded by the UK cosmetics industry, taking a lead on improving safety and self-regulation. However the Expert Working Group on Cosmetic Surgery recommended in 2005 that Botox should be monitored by the Healthcare Commission to safeguard patient safety.
“Medispa is a term that is so overused, it appears to have lost its way,” adds Lewis. “Adding an aesthetician once a week to do facials at your hair salon does not make it a medispa. The consumer has to be aware that salons that are branching out and creeping into the medical treatment arena need proper health care professionals on board to ensure safety for clients. Even the simplest intense pulsed light device can cause burns and scars when used improperly.”
McGeorge agrees: “Injectables, peels and lasers should all be performed by a properly trained clinician, a plastic surgeon or a dermatologist. It is essential that people do their homework as these treatments can affect not only their appearance but their health and safety as well.”
Natural values
The notion of an effective natural alternative to cosmeceutical skin care has for many years been limited to a few niche brands. However, natural and organic skin care is undergoing something of a revolution, with issues such as the environment, the integrity of ingredients and holistic well being striking a cord with more and more consumers.
A recent survey by Datamonitor values the organics personal care market in the UK at £9m and forecasts it will swell to £12m by 2011.
“Organics lie at the intersection of the health and ethical trends and have therefore benefited hugely from changes in consumer lifestyles in both these areas,” explains Datamonitor consumer markets analyst, Nick Beevors. “Natural and organic personal care has for a number of years been associated with a small niche segment of bohemians. A number of social factors leading to impressive market growth have however begun to drive this niche towards the mainstream.”
Diana Dodson, senior C&T industry analyst, Euromonitor agrees: “There is a general demand for products that work, and thanks to technological advances, natural products have become more effective,” she says. “People have a lot of questions about cosmeceuticals so natural skin care looks like a more attractive offer to many.”
The sector has flourished as a swathe of super luxury brands have taken natural to their hearts. Christian Dior's L'Or de Vie range is the brand's most expensive skin care launch to date and it uses natural products as its main selling point.
Key to the formula are the new shoots of the Sauvignon and Semillon vines harvested from the vineyards of Château D'Yquem, which are claimed to posses very potent antioxidant properties. The French brand believes the ingredient sets a benchmark for competitors in the same field.
Similarly Davi, a new super premium skin care line produced by the Mondavi winemaking family in California, uses fermented wine extracts along with grape extract, green tea, bilberry and soy bean to create a high level of antioxidants. The range features two lines - for men and women - with names inspired by the wine-making process, including Le Grand Cru face cream and Crushed grape seed exfoliating cleanser.
For some luxury brands producing a natural skin care product is not enough, and the issue of environmental responsibility has been picked up by some manufacturers. Nude, the luxury fair trade skin care brand created by Bryan Meehan, founder of UK-based organic produce retailer Fresh & Wild, is said to feature recyclable packaging from sustainable sources, non toxic inks and green energy wherever possible. The company is also working to make all packaging biodegradable. Products in the line are said to be free of parabens, sulphates, PEGs, TEA, DEA, mineral oil, silicones and GM ingredients, and the range includes products for sensitive, oily, normal and ageing skins.
Packaging is also a key element to fashion designer Stella McCartney's new organic skin care line, care by Stella McCartney. The range of organic cleansers, toners and moisturisers have Ecocert certification and are said to challenge conventional skin care by asking why are we conscious of what we put in our bodies but not what we put on them? As the organic products do not contain chemical preservatives, the packaging has had to accommodate the products with airless systems to help protect the formulas.
The Stella McCartney line has entered new territory - the rise of designer skin care - along with other fashion brands such as Giorgio Armani, Gap and Bvlgari. Of these skin care offers Rinaldi argues that the McCartney line has a credibility and integrity that others perhaps do not. “Stella McCartney has grown up in an organic environment and is a spokesperson on the subject. Her execution of an organic skin care line has value and longevity.”
As for the future of skin care, what can we expect? The issue of environmental responsibility and carbon off-setting is already appearing on consumers' radar but the balance between looking good and saving the planet will be difficult, particularly in an environment where the hype behind many brands has built up feelings of consumer mistrust towards many manufacturers' skin care claims, forcing the industry to re-examine its marketing.
“Ageing cannot be reversed, but it can be slowed,” says Lewis. “ The future of skin care looks very bright and with a few top notch products in hand and an overall healthy lifestyle, we can all look and feel younger. Brands do however need to listen to patients about their individual needs and goals for treatment, and under promise and over deliver.”