There may still be a lot of unanswered questions about nanotechnology and its future but the technology continues to move fast
Advances in the super-science of nanotechnology mean that benefits, previously in the realms of science ficition, are now becoming reality. Nanotechnology is an approach that deals with understanding and applying the properties of matter at the nano-scale, where a small molecule measures one nano-metre (one billionth of a metre) in length; that's about 1/80,000 of the diameter of a human hair. At this level, matter exhibits a range of different properties and has already enabled the manufacture of products with significantly finer consistencies. In terms of cosmetics, toiletries and fragrance this can mean superior products: smoother creams, less visible (or invisible) lotions, deeper tanning systems and more effective acne treatments.
A recent EU report notes that nanotechnology has already been used to produce a revolutionary toothpaste containing nanoparticles of apatite and protein, the natural material of the tooth, helping to restore its normal condition. Also listed is a day cream containing nanoparticles of zinc oxide to combat harmful UV radiation, and there are nanoscale perfume capsules which give leather a genuine feel.
One of the leading nations in nanotechnology for the cosmetic industry is Australia, which is producing new invisible coatings and revolutionary nano-biotechnology. Australia invests more than US$75m a year in nanotechnology research. This is partly due to the nation's passion for innovation, a large interest in cosmetics in general and an interest in sunscreen technology in particular because of the high incidence of skin cancer in the country and the subsequent need to address this health issue.
Invisible protection
One heavily involved Australian firm is the Perth-based Advanced Nanotechnology Ltd, which specialises in smart nano-surfaces or invisible coatings for everyday products. The company found that nanoparticles of zinc oxide, a natural and well known UV absorber, provide effective protection from the sun without resulting in the thick white paste that can turn people off using sunscreen products. This led to the production of ZinClear, a completely clear sunscreen that provides superior UV protection, without being heavy and difficult to apply and without any UV chemical absorbers.
CEO of Advanced Nano technology, Paul McCormick, says the development of invisible UV protection arose due to the focus on products that are relevant to Australia's hot and sunny climate. "Protection from the sun means a great deal to Australians so these types of products will always be in demand in the local marketplace," he says.
ZinClear came about through the company's Mechanochemical Processing (MCP) technology, a novel, patented solid-state process for the manufacture of a wide range of nanopowders. This technology won the company the coveted Frost and Sullivan 2005 Excellence in Technology of the Year award in the nanomaterials field.
Other companies are also working with nano-sized pigments in the development of UV protection. Probably best known is Uniqema whose nanosized titanium dioxide products under the Clarus trademark enable the formulation of sun care and skin care products with invisible protection.
Advanced Technology also produces a product called Alusion, a platelet grade of alumina powders specifically designed to provide what the company calls "soft focus properties with superior cosmetic feel". Its briefing notes add: "Alusion particles compete with talc, mica, bismuth oxychloride and hexagonal boron nitride. The benefits are achieved through a uniform platelet morphology that provides superior slip, adhesion, transparency and soft focus properties".
Electrospinning
Australia is also at the forefront of continuing research into how nanotechnology can assist cosmetics and toiletries, as well as other industries. The country's national scientific research agency, CSIRO, is researching the potential of electrospinning as a method of manufacturing high performance textile microfilters and surface altering characteristics required by a wide range of industries including cosmetics.
According to CSIRO's Martin Williams: "The aerosol and liquid barrier properties of electrospun membranes offer new possibilities in protective products for hazardous medical, industrial, military and emergency services applications. Electrospun fibre-based membranes are highly breathable, lightweight and multifunctional."
In the US, nanotechnology is also big business and enjoys the active support of the federal government. The twin concerns of skin cancer and skin beauty are particularly lucrative in the US, where one company managed to woo Oprah Winfrey's make-up artist.
Potency & penetration
“Nanotechnology also has an important role to play in the fake tan sector, a big plus among health conscious consumers who still want to look tanned.” |
California-based beyond Skin Science uses a patented nanotechnology system called NanoChem. This allows the delivery of active ingredients that nourish the skin in smaller components that move faster and penetrate deeper into the skin. The result is that the ingredients work at a higher level of potency, effectively balancing and rehydrating the skin, increasing collagen production and leaving the skin younger looking, healthier and more radiant.
Also from California are developments in the field of cosmetic acne treatments. Last year QuantumSphere, a manufacturer and seller of nanopowder renderings from several elemental minerals, began supplying Dermacia, a maker of advanced therapeutic cosmetics and skin care products, with nanosilver. Dermacia plans to use the nanosilver for its line of therapeutic cosmetics and skin care products designed for acne sufferers.
Also last year, QuantumSphere unveiled new nanopowders for biomedical applications to significantly advance medical diagnostic results previously undetectable using conventional technology. Meanwhile, Dermacia announced the introduction of a new line of cosmeceutical products to address millions of people around the world who cannot use traditional cosmetics due to sensitive skin conditions, a market estimated to be worth in excess of US$50bn.
Nanotechnology also has an important role to play in the fake tan sector, a big plus among health conscious consumers who still want to look tanned. Dermazone Solutions, a skin care manufacturer based in Florida, has produced a moisturiser with long-lasting sunless tanning benefits. Called Inside Tan, this uses the company's Lyphazome technology to deliver potent, long-lasting hydration and bioactives alongside active tanning ingredients, ensuring both soft, silky skin and an even tan coverage.
The product is the result of more than a decade of nanotechnology research and the technology is said to enable moisturisers and tanning agents to penetrate deep into the skin, and move away from daily exfoliation, while time-released active ingredients renew radiant colour over time. Rather than colouring just the outermost layer of skin, Inside Tan has been formulated to go deeper and last longer.
Process control
European researchers are playing a key role in product development using nanotechnology. PROFORM is an EU project that is combining science and engineering to establish new processes for dispersing nanoparticles in liquid forms such as body lotions and detergents. Using nanoparticles in certain products can make them more attractive to consumers, mainly because they can make a lotion less visible on the skin.
The project, which started in mid-2004 and is scheduled to run for three years, brings together ten companies as well as universities and other research facilities. It is expected to provide a design guide for the entire dispersal process, which includes several steps such as wetting, dispersing and dissolving. PROFORM researchers also hope to produce a databank of generic information for characterising particles and numerical models for the rheological properties of suspensions, kinetics of sub-processes, fluid flow and mixing.
UV all rounder
Also in the UK, Oxonica Ltd, a technology group formed as a spin-off company from Oxford University, has patented a revolutionary new UV filter called Optisol. As of April 2005, Optisol was used commercially as an active component of Soltan Facial Sun Defence Cream, produced by Boots the Chemist. Optisol offers several major benefits over existing filters. In addition to protecting against UVB, Optisol offers enhanced protection against UVA light.
"Optisol is a milder, longer lasting and innovative new form of titanium dioxide, a commonly used ingredient in sunscreens which acts to absorb UV light," says Oxonica. "A tiny amount of manganese is incorporated within the titanium dioxide, adding major benefits. The manganese absorbs extra UVA, giving a higher level of protection and also helping to stop the formation of free radicals in the titanium dioxide. These effects give enhanced performance that is extremely photostable, ensuring that the product's ability to protect isn't broken down by the sun."
Further benefits are seen in a broader cosmetic context. Antioxidants such as vitamin C are commonly added to cosmetic products to scavenge free radicals and promote healthy skin. However, Oxonica says antioxidants themselves can be degraded by UV.
"Optisol provides additional performance benefits by acting to protect vitamins and plant extracts from UV, allowing these cosmetic antioxidants to retain efficacy for longer," says the company. "In this way it further helps to prevent cell damage and premature skin ageing. It also enhances the cosmetic performance of formulated products, with users reporting an immediate improvement in skin tone and radiance."
Oxonica is now in discussions with other major cosmetic manufacturers regarding the inclusion of Optisol in their sun care and cosmetic ranges. Meanwhile the company is looking to build relations worldwide and has recently signed a worldwide distribution agreement with Croda to further market Optisol as a UV absorber.