Biotech retinol and 'gum beauty': Top cosmetic ingredients for February

By Julia Wray | Published: 6-Feb-2023

Givaudan’s ‘industry first’ natural-origin retinol RetiLife is among the new cosmetic ingredients available

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Givaudan’s RetiLife, claimed to be the first natural-origin retinol on the market, and a new ‘gum beauty’ oral care ingredient from Ashland are among the novel cosmetic ingredients on offer. 

Meanwhile, Solvay’s Rhovanil vanillin has achieved ISCC PLUS certification, while DSM is celebrating being the first company to receive NCI approval in China’s stringent Category 3, making its SYN-UP skin care active ingredient globally compliant. 

1. Ashland, saffragyl biofunctional

The ‘beautification’ of the oral care market is a continuing trend, spurred by the likes of vVardis and Moon. But what about the gums specifically? 

New from Ashland is saffragyl biofunctional, described as a cosmetic solution for gum care that turns oral health into a ‘daily beauty regimen’.

The 100% natural extract comes from upcycled saffron flowers to help prevent early gum problems and strengthen sensitive and irritated gums.

One keystone bucco-dental bacteria, called Porphyrhomonas gingivalis (P. gingivalis), produces a toxic enzyme called the gingipain; this toxin is responsible for gingival inflammation, gum tissue degradation and biofilm formation among other serious health disorders.

Ahsland specifically developed its new ingredient to neutralise the gingipain toxin. 

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