Sun Care - The magic numbers

Today’s sun care clim-ate is shining with innovation. This year, advances such as high factor creams in sophisticated textures, the adaptation of skin care technology for sun care and self tan products that aim to bring salon results to the home are contributing to a market that is as progressive as it is prosperous. And, in a move which is seen as a significant step forward by some industry players, Colipa’s finalisation of an official European UVA protection method is expected mid-year.

Sun care sales continue to glow, with the UK leading Europe’s Big 5 countries in sun protection with †278m while sun care was also the UK’s fastest growing health and beauty sector in 2005 (IRI 52 w/e 29 December 2005). Self-tan may still be a small segment, but in the UK it grew by 15% last year, while Germany is home to Europe’s biggest users of self-tanning products, with sales of †59m in 2005 (Mintel).

The numbers game

One of the hottest trends in sun protection is that higher SPFs have started to dominate sales, even in countries not known for their big factor sales. Laure Levesque Morbau, international marketing director for Lancaster Sun, reflects: “The awareness of potential sun damage is really spreading now. There is an increase in SPF levels in many countries, ie Spain, where the SPF level rose from 8 to 15 in the last three years. Even in Italy, SPF levels have risen from 4 to 8. They will continue to rise, and it’s in total consistency with the evolution of the climate becoming warmer.” In the UK, sun care brand Malibu has reported a 15% increase in sales of high factors over a three year period, and, in 2005, 65% of all Malibu’s sun protection sales were for factors of SPF15 plus. For Beiersdorf, SPF30+ sales are its biggest selling factor, taking 29.6% of its sun protection sales in 2005, compared with 28.5% in 2004.

However, this year the focus for many manufacturers is on SPF50+. Tom Mammone, executive director of biological research and development with Clinique explains why. “While in many cases SPF15-30 is adequate, there are certain situations where it really can benefit to increase this level,” he says. “Many dermatologists have found that people often don’t apply their sunscreens often enough or liberally enough and therefore have begun advocating the use of higher SPFs. Increasing the SPF of a product is not a gimmick. It does in fact provide additional protection and is asked for frequently by our customers.” But sun care products that carry SPFs of such high value also carry their own set of challenges. Brian Diffey, clinical director, regional medical physics department, Newcastle General Hospital, says: “Generally you find that as you increase the SPF it becomes thicker and less pleasant to use and people will therefore use less. This might mean that the SPF they are actually putting on their skin goes down, and while the bottle might say SPF50, the consumer puts on only enough to make it SPF5. With this race to increase the numbers game, we may be shooting ourselves in the foot.”

Some manufacturers have specifically targeted this problem, addressing the textures as a key part of the development process of high factor products. Nivea is this year launching Children’s Sun Spray SPF50+, which claims to achieve a light texture on the skin. Martin Sugàr, head of R&D, sun care, at Beiersdorf explains: “The problem in the past with developing a spray with ultra high SPF was combining it with good sprayability. The need for high amounts of mineral filters leads to a highly viscous product. For the first time it became possible because we used the right combination of mineral and organic UV filters.” Sugàr says there were three main factors to take into account when doing this. Firstly choosing the right amount of filters so that the viscosity of the formula doesn’t increase too much. Also, “some filters lead to a decrease in the viscosity, but they can destabilise the emulsion, therefore they have to be carefully dosed”. And finally, “the stabilisers have an influence on the stability of the emulsion, but also on the viscosity and the spraying characteristics. Therefore the right choice as well as the right dosage is crucial to achieve a product which is a stable emulsion and at the same time easily sprayable into a fine mist”. For Sugàr, the result feels like SPF15 or 20 on the skin. “From a development perspective I am proud of creating such a product at all... combining stability and high SPF together with sprayability.”

Mammone also addresses the topic of texture in relation to Clinique’s new UV-Response Face Cream SPF50. “This product contains different kinds of sunscreen actives to attain the SPF of 50 and also contains some cosmetic ingredients to balance the texture,” he says. “By blending the ingredients we have been able to achieve a product that gives excellent sun protection but also goes on sheer and blends nicely with your foundation or powder.” Joining this product is UV-Response Body Cream SPF50, which is also claimed to be a lightweight, oil-free cream. New for this year at Boots is an SPF50+ Soltan Face Sun Defence Cream, which is also a light, non-greasy formulation that can be worn under make-up. It is skin toned so is non-whitening and contains the milder titanium dioxide ingredient that Boots first used last year, Optisol by Oxonica, which is claimed to reduce the formation of free radicals on the skin whilst in the sun. Superdrug’s Solait has introduced Anti-Ageing Face Protection Lotion with SPF50, containing Aquarich with natural oat extract to provide up to 25 hour moisturisation as well as vitamin E and panthenol. There is also an SPF40 spray. Superdrug has teamed up with The Institute of Cancer Research’s SAFE campaign promoting Skin Awareness For Everyone and is donating a percentage of profits from the sale of Solait to the campaign, which is being fronted by model Cindy Crawford. Garnier Ambre Solaire is targeting consumers with sensitive facial skin too, with UV Sensitive Protection Cream Ultra SPF50+, which it claims leaves skin free of any sticky residue. There is a non-whitening Protection Milk format for the body, while in spray format there is the new SPF40, which sprays upside down for added convenience. Malibu has added higher factors to its 2006 products too, with a lotion spray in SPF25, a lip care stick in SPF20 and single dose SPF20 lotion sachets.

Boots’ core innovation for this year has been Soltan Once, which it is billing as the first once-a-day sun protection product to contain five star UVA protection formula. One application of the product is said to protect the user for six hours. Mike Brown, sun care scientific adviser, Boots comments: “It contains new UV filters on the market that are more substantive on the skin and more waterproof. The product binds to the skin using a polymer film former.” But of course texture is a sticking point with this sort of product as it is inevitably thicker. “Clearly it’s a cream and not as light or elegant as the mainstream Soltan line so there will be people who like the lighter formulation,” says Brown. “With technology we will carry on developing the texture - we may even see a spray format in the future. There are also people who like to regularly apply sun cream, just as there are those who would prefer to do it just once. There is a big leap of faith with these products. For a while, some people are bound not to be sure about using them.” And this is where Boots’ regular Soltan products hold their ground. Joining the existing line is a range of coconut scented products, the result of customer demand for this specific scent.

A balancing act

Boots is facing a dilemma over its five star system due to the forthcoming move by Colipa to instigate an official European UVA protection method called the In-Vitro UVA Testing Method. It takes elements of the German UVA balance method, largely driven by Beiersdorf, as well as other methods which have been published in France. Gerald Renner, director of science and research at Colipa comments: “We think it combines the best of the methods. Once we are satifiied that it is robust enough to be a European standard, we will go to the European Commission with the protocol. Certainly this will happen during the course of the year, and hopefully before the summer, but it is still work in progress.” Briefly, UVA Balance is based on a three-step method: Step 1 is the in vitro measurement of the UVA and UVB transmission of a sunscreen; Step 2 is the adjustment of the transmission spectrum to the in vivo SPF; and Step 3 is the calculation of the ratio of UVA to UVB absorption. “What the German method does not have is pre-irradiation with UV light,” says Renner, so the Colipa method will include some modifications. So what does this mean for Boots and its own five star UVA rating system? Would Boots be able to merge this with the new European system? “At the moment we are asking what the European method would look like on pack and whether it would be a pass or fail system or a rating system,” says Brown.

Renner adds: “There will be a way to compare the Boots test results with the new In-Vitro method. We are trying to harmonise the test method with Boots. The European Commission is discussing how the numeric results will be translated into labelling. But I can’t tell right now whether one common labelling system will dominate, or whether the Boots system will be retained just in the UK.” Brown confirms that Boots has not dismissed the possibility of continuing the five star system either, but the question is whether it would be confusing to consumers to keep the star rating. “It is actually starting to become recognised by consumers now,” says Brown.

The introduction of a standard system is seen by many European sun care manufacturers as a long awaited and positive move. Renner says: “It would create a more harmonised situation in terms of what companies use to substantiate their claims. And when the consumer sees claims on different products, the same tests will have been used.” But Diffey, who developed the Boots system, has some concerns about UVA Balance system, on which it is partially based. “My view is that the UVA Balance system is flawed in that the balance number changes depending on the thickness of the sunscreen used, whereas the Boots system does not,” he says. “You can do a test of 2mm per sq cm but if the consumer uses less than this - and consumers typically apply sunscreens at 0.5mm to 1mm - they are getting an SPF of one third of what’s on the bottle. With the Boots system, the star rating is independent of how much people use; it’s about what’s in the bottle.” Dr Jack Ferguson, md Skinnovation Ltd, has other reservations about the system. “It will result in a UVA protection level less than the current five star rating and possibly less than a four star rating of the Boots system, therefore UK consumers will be worse off for protection from UVA. The Colipa method is a poor compromise.”

So why was the Boots system never adopted internationally? Brown comments: “There may be reluctance because it’s a UK system but also it makes it difficult for the industry as a whole to have a system that is owned by one company.” Diffey’s view on the implementation of the system is: “I think it’s a pragmatic thing - some companies have invested a lot of resources in going down one avenue and my guess is that it’s one of those political compromises to make as many people happy for most of the time as they can, and achieve a degree of international co-operation. It moves things forward, and from that point of view it’s a good thing.” Ferguson adds: “For Europe, the introduction will be better than what they have now, which is nothing, but it will be less than what they could have if they adopted the Boots system. I’m not sure that UVA is now a big issue in Europe as it was in the UK ten years ago. The impact of it may only be minor.” Colipa does recognise the worth of the Boots system, however. Renner says: “I know the UK has been strong in defending the Boots star system because it has been valuable in educating the consumer, and I think that needs to be acknowledged.”

Skin and sun

The focus for many premium sun care brands this year has been for greater integration of skin care benefits. For Lancaster’s Levesque Morbau: “Sun care is part of skin care. Sun care has not only to provide protection but also advanced skin care benefits.” Lancaster’s latest innovation is Sunslim Body Programme, a three-step routine that combines slimming and tanning. The pre-holiday step one is formed by the Celluli-Breaker Tan Stimulator which contains the Sunshape Complex with green coffee and yerba maté extracts to inhibit the entrance of lipids in the lipocyte, destroy the lipids stored in the lipocyte and facilitate the release of lipids outside the lipocyte. It also contains Meditan, a melanin-activating biomimetic peptide, and RPF Complex for free radical protection. Step two is designed to continue firming the body whilst boosting the tan during bathing. Celluli-Burner Tan Booster in SPF8 and 15 lists amongst its ingredients Lancaster’s Tan Activator Complex, which boosts melanin synthesis, and a smart vector, a marine microcapsule containing green coffee oil, which is claimed to be released upon UV exposure for further slimming action. The final step is celluli-Drainer Tan Prolonger, designed to soothe skin after sun exposure while continuing the draining and firming action.

Carita combines skin care and sun care in its philosophy, aiming for its range to be used as a replacement for its regular skin care range during the summer months. The brand taps into a trend which Mintel highlights: “Women don’t want to disrupt their daily routine, so they want products that encompass moisturising, nourishing, firming, anti-ageing and sun protection. Consumers are also willing to pay more and more for these products.” Carita has hit on a further gap in the market with its Eye Protecting Care SPF15. The cream protects the eye area while also claiming to smooth out wrinkles with Cassia angustifolia, diminish puffiness with ivy extract and correct imperfections with iron oxide pigments. Emma Maclennen, training manager for Carita UK says: “The skin around the eyes is ten times thinner than on the rest of the face. We treat it separately in our skin care so why not in our sun care? I think this product will be successful because with wrinkles the real concern is the eyes. Eye products could be a developing area in sun care.” Clarins has spotted this niche too and will next month launch Sun Wrinkle Control Eye Contour Care SPF30, which contains its Phyto-sunactyl 2 complex, a blend of pea, olive leaf, baobab leaf, plane bark and senna leaf extracts to help block the production of AP1, a cause of collagen damage, and protect the Mitochondrial DNA, which controls the skin’s oxygen and energy levels.

As technology is increasingly transferred from the skin care industry to sun care, it will be intriguing to see how the UK’s number one self-tan performer Fake Bake moves within the skin care sector. It has launched Sachy, a new anti-ageing moisturiser in tinted and non-tinted variants, that blends natural botanical butters with sweet almond protein and six antioxidants to help refine lines and offer rich hydration. Interestingly, neither moisturiser contains tanning agents.

Palmer-Cutler has neatly crossed self-tan/skin care borders with Saving Face, a self-tan cream that claims to provide 24 hour hydration and anti-ageing benefits. Meanwhile Chanel’s new Soleil Identité offers facial self-tan with SPF8 and eight hours of moisturisation. It contains tomato extract to boost radiance, white lily extract to calm and a complex that contains a soft focus agent and fine pearly flakes with copper reflections to give the skin a healthy glow. Texture is the focus in Lancôme’s Aqua Flash Bronzer Fresh Self Tanning Water. The light, fresh texture contains peach extract to tone the skin and give a cooling sensation.

A remarkable number of self-tan products which offer improvements from formulation to format are being launched onto the market this year. Piz Buin’s objective was to perfect the scent for its Summer Sensation Self Tan products. Jonathan Miller, principal scientist at J&J says: “70% of consumers think that self-tan smells like it is from a bottle. This is the key reason for self-tan rejection.” One of Piz Buin’s chief challenges in creating a pleasant fragrance was attaining DHA stabilisation. “What drives DHA breakdown is its reaction with emulsion gelling systems, so we developed a new system that DHA didn’t easily react with. At the same time we had to deliver the right emulsion stability.” The choice of fragrance was also critical, so Piz Buin worked with premium fragrance houses to test the scents.

Spray to go

When it comes to formats, aerosols are the focus for self-tanning brands this year as they seek to bring professional air-brush effects to the home. They spray 360 degrees, offer even coverage for hard to reach areas, are fast drying and do not have to be rubbed in. Estée Lauder’s version, Go Tan Air-Brush Self-Tan Spray for Body aims to give a professional tanned look, while protecting skin with tocopheryl acetate and anti-irritants caffeine and sucrose. Fake Bake has just launched Air Brush, claimed to deliver a flawless tan that in the past has only been possible by visiting a salon, while L’Oréal Paris’ Sublime Bronze Self-Tanning Dry Mist uses a micro-diffusion spray that disperses particles up to three times smaller than its regular self-tanning sprays. But the company’s most unusual self-tanning innovation this year is Sublime Bronze Self-Tanning Glove. The glove is designed to make self-tanning faster and more precise, avoiding the need for separate exfoliation. The fibres of the glove contain the self-tan formula and it can be used on difficult to reach areas without creasing to give a tan without streaks.

So what is the forecast for the future of sun care? Will increasingly higher SPFs shape new formulations? Mammone thinks “the more important innovations in the future will be that SPFs will become more effective and not just higher in number. The latest development in UV protection is that it is more than just sunscreen. The topical use of antioxidants is boosting SPF values and helping to protect skin”. Brown adds: “There is still some way for sunscreens to go in terms of understanding more about the other biological effects - it’s about looking at other ways to prevent sun damage.”

But the hottest challenge is likely to be advances in convenient application. Diffey believes: “I don’t think we’ve seen enough focus on compliance over the past 10-15 years. Companies could focus more on the cosmetic aspect, on what makes sunscreens more pleasant to use. In the UK people still only use the equivalent of one third of a bottle per person per year. There is a huge potential for people to use more sunscreen.” Indeed, research data (TNS Data w/end 12 September 2004) shows that up to 70% of the UK population still doesn’t buy sun protection. Ferguson thinks “topical products need to be easier to apply uniformly, more durable and less mobile on the skin”. Roll-ons and sprays have been popular developments, and there have been attempts at wipes, “but I don’t believe wipes worked,” says Sugàr. “There were some attempts in the market but they were not success-ful for the beach because of sand and the practical difficulties.” For Brown: “The holy grail is where you don’t have to smear anything on your body at all. A product that doesn’t require rubbing in will happen at some point in the future.” But this sort of project is for the long-term. Sugàr comments: “At the moment I do not see alternatives to lotions, sprays or creams.”

Some companies are trying oral supplements. Imedeen launched Tan Optimiser several years ago, and now Innéov, L’Oréal/Nestlé’s joint nutri-cosmeceutical venture has launched a line of nutritional capsules for tan preparation. And at the last Summit Events sun protection conference, Brown’s UV Protection in a Pill paper was based on a study which found that the use of oral antioxidant supplements mitigates lipid peroxidation in the stratum corneum, with benefits being likely to extend throughout the epidermis rather than just providing a surface effect. Could we eventually see sun protection in a tablet? “The idea of a sun protection tablet sounds extremely tempting,” says Sugàr. “Unfortunately, no technology is currently available which could replace sunscreens by orally applied tablets, drinks or whatever.” But the notion doesn’t appeal to everyone. Diffey says: “I don’t think oral photo-protection could give us the same level as a topical product and it would worry me if it was taken orally. I think relying on a pill, which would have to repair damage after it was already done on the skin, is unnecessarily hazardous.” Whether it’s oral protection or not, for Brown the future of sun protection should be an open window. “If we think we make sun creams we won’t continue to lead the industry in the way that we do in the UK. We are in the business of delivering sun protection to customers, and at the moment it happens to come in the form of a cream, lotion or spray.”

So the forecast is changeable, but in a pioneering market, that’s a warming thought.