Skin Care - Facing the future

Consumers are increasingly comfortable with advanced technologies when it comes to saving face

Keeping consumers brand loyal is challenging at the best of times, but in the skin care sector the already crowded marketplace has meant brands have had to address consumer needs on a greater scale than ever before.

An increasingly ageing population is prompting more and more consumers to invest in the future of their skin and the results indicate that the skin care sector has firmly become the most diverse and innovative sector

in the C&T market. Gone are the days when a ‘traditional’ moisturiser would suffice. Today's skin care products, thanks to advancements in ingredients and technology, offer something for every consumer need - from microdermabrasion and post surgical healing to adult acne and even battery powered anti-wrinkle patches. One thing is clear, consumers will stop at nothing in their quest for eternal youth.

Industry analyst Euromonitor puts the value of the global skin care market at $55.38bn, outpacing other sectors of the C&T industry by a large margin. Euromonitor and virtually every industry analyst expects this figure to grow in double digits for the foreseeable future.

The reason for such strong growth is thanks in part to an increasing consumer acceptance of cosmetic procedures as the ‘norm’, particularly in the US and Western Europe.

According to the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, Americans spent an eye watering $12.4bn on cosmetic procedures in 2005. Almost 11.5 million surgical and non-surgical procedures were performed in the US, with liposuction and botox injections leading the way. Despite the impressive figures, the number of non-surgical procedures has actually fallen by 4% on the previous year, indicating a slowdown in demand.

In the UK there was an increase of almost 35% in the number of surgical procedures undertaken in 2005, according to the British Association of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons (BAAPS). Of these, 22,041 procedures were carried out by BAAPS members, a high proportion of which were linked to anti-ageing. Facelifts, eyelid surgery and brow lifts showed 42.1, 50.2 and 34.8% increases respectively.

“These figures appear to represent a growing acceptance of aesthetic surgery, particularly in maintaining appearance with age,” explains Adam Searle, consultant plastic surgeon and president of BAAPS.

“The growth in this market is off the charts,” adds Wendy Lewis, cosmetic surgery consultant and international image enhancement coach. “Industry experts estimate a 20% per year growth globally in all areas. The UK is experiencing a boom due to increased media coverage and the consumer obsession with who has had what done and by whom. Celebrity is also influencing this trend as consumers have figured out that every face and body they see on camera has had some help somewhere along the line. There is also a new acceptance of injectables and lasers.”

Indeed procedures such as Restylane and Isologen are becoming more and more commonplace. These treatments are regarded as less harsh than other injectable procedures on the market. Restylane and new Restylane Lipp, replenish the body's natural production of hyaluronic acid, restoring volume and diminishing the appearance of wrinkles.

Isologen, which has been gaining a growing fan base since it launched three years ago, uses the body's own skin cells, captured in optimum condition, to rejuvenate the skin. The process of 'harvesting' the cells is painstakingly undertaken by hand and as a result the treatment commands a hefty price tag. However, due to the treatment's more natural positioning, Isologen has tapped into the growing interest in natural cosmetics as well as the rise in demand for cosmetic procedures.

“It’s surprising the number of people that come into my clinic for Isologen who have never had cosmetic surgery before,” says Dr Mark Palmer, aesthetic medical doctor at the Cosmetic Medical Clinic in Leeds. He estimates that 30-40% of his patients fall into this bracket.

Isologen was originally used to treat scarring but the treatment is now being utilised for the lucrative anti-ageing market, and Palmer believes this kind of cell technology can be used even further. “Cell technology is the way forward,” he tells SPC. “Treatments like Isologen will be used in bigger doses in the next five years and could be used to treat conditions such as gum recession. We may even see stem cells coming into this field.”

From scalpel to shelf

This increased activity in cosmetic procedures has filtered down to mainstream cosmetic products and the last few years have seen a flurry of activity from the major beauty houses who have introduced glycolic peels, microdermabrasion kits and pen-like 'lasers' that claim to offer gentler, at home versions of clinical procedures.

“There is a growing global trend for instant gratification,” says Truit Bell, president and ceo of US skin care brand DCL. The brand recently made its UK debut at Selfridges’ Ultralounge promotional event, which proved extremely successful. Products are ‘prescribed’ after a facial imaging consultation which examines a number of factors including texture, wrinkles, age spots and sun damage. This way, the company says, the consumer is using the right product for their skin and the results are validated by the imaging machine.

The system has attracted a celebrity following as well as endorsements from dermatologists and skin care experts, including Wendy Lewis.

“There are more women in the workplace with financial independence, which has resulted in a breed of new consumers of beauty services and products who are very much results orientated,” explains Lewis. “This in turn has led to the boom in cosmetic surgery which has trickled down to consumers who see skin care as a means to avoid going under the knife.”

Dr Daniel Maes, global R&D director at Estée Lauder agrees. “Fast, visible results are driving the market. The current trend in the skin care market is to develop products that are extremely effective in generating rapid visible benefits such as peels and home microdermabrasion kits,” he says.

However, Maes warns that such immediate results may actually be doing more harm than good. “I personally believe that the frequent use of these kinds of treatments generates cumulative damage in the skin due to the serious and visible irritation.”

Despite such reservations, manufacturers are pushing the boundaries forward with new technologies. The latest products to hit the shelves show that the lines between skin care and medicine are becoming increasingly blurred. One of the most innovative outcomes of this marriage of expertise is the creation of Prevage, the result of an exclusive marketing agreement between Allergen Inc (a speciality pharmaceutical company and maker of Botox) and beauty giant Elizabeth Arden.

According to Arden, this is the first time a beauty house has partnered with a pharmaceutical company, and the joint venture will no doubt prompt other manufacturers to follow suit. The key ingredient in the product is idebenone, a potent and patented antioxidant. An existing ‘physician strength’ variant of Prevage is already in existence containing 1% of the antioxidant but only available on prescription, while this new, available without prescription version contains half the dosage.

Estée Lauder is also stepping up to the mark with the launch of its Perfectionist Power Correcting Patch. The new product is said to target deep eye lines and wrinkles and offers a glimpse into the future of skin care thanks to its innovative design, which emits a tiny micro-current of energy (1.5 volts), which Lauder says allows the formula within to penetrate into the epidermis more effectively. The inspiration for the patch came from the medical community's use of an electrical current to deliver medication into the body tissue.

“Today's consumer is concerned with speed of result and this trend has reflected itself in the upsurge of derm products,” says Gail Guyton, Estée Lauder's director of training for the UK and Ireland. “This new product answers both these concerns, without invasive procedures or discomfort.” Guyton also says Lauder intends to extend the Perfectionist product offer in the coming months with the launch of a concentrate pen for deeper lines and wrinkles as well as an enzyme peel.

Bliss has added three new products to its Sleeping Peel line to create a complete skin care system, Youth Be Known. The cleansing cream, resurfacing gel and age-minimising eye gel contain beta hydroxy acids, hexapeptides and collagen synthesis stimulators which are said to help smooth skin, unclog pores and reduce the signs of ageing.

Also on an exfoliating mission is Clinique, which added two new products to its successful Turnaround franchise. Turnaround Concentrate Visible Skin Renewer and 15-minute Facial are said to mimic the skin’s natural renewal cycle to leave skin smoother and radiant thanks to a blend of salicylic acid, chestnut extract, creatine and acetyl glucosamine. Clary Sage extract, meanwhile helps protect the skin barrier.

“Many cosmetic buzz words have now found their way into our daily lexicon - lunch time peels, antioxidants, anti-ageing and microdermabrasion to name a few,” explains Tom Mammone, executive director of Clinique biological R&D. “Anti-oxidants are used because there is scientific reasoning behind the belief that antioxidants can fight free radicals. Energy technology is here to stay as well because it is really the key to enhanced skin self-repair.”

Another area rapidly gaining ground is the proliferation of skin care products for use after cosmetic procedures. Once the domain of specialist formulators, these products have been hitting the mainstream, with several brands launching product lines.

“The consumer mindset is changing and the technology is now becoming available to look good and feel better,” DCL’s Bell tells SPC. “In cosmetic surgery manufacturers are becoming more aware of pre- and post-care.”

Clinique has led the way in this respect with the launch of its CX range a few years ago, incorporating cosmetic science’s highly advanced recovery and protective ingredients to deliver visible soothing treatment products for use after cosmetic procedures. The line has now been extended to include four new products - CX Antioxidant Rescue Serum, CX Protective Base SPF40, CX Colour Corrector and CX Soothing Concealer Duo SPF15.

Also from the Lauder stable comes Advanced Night Repair Concentrate Recovery Boosting Treatment, due to hit shelves in September. The product contains Bifidus extract, a yeast which enhances the repair of the DNA within the skin cells and has been formulated with overstressed and visibly irritated skin in mind, a by-product of many dermatological procedures. Lauder also says the product can be used to treat minor wounds and alleviate sunburn.

The rise in sensitised skin has also been addressed by mass brands, with Beiersdorf launching a sensitive skin line for its Nivea Visage franchise. The line comprises Calming Cleansing Milk and Calming Day Cream, which contain anti-inflammatory Licorine and an exclusive balancing complex to help stressed and irritated skin. “It's crucial to keep irritated or over-reactive skin moisturised with a product tailored specifically for sensitive skin,” explains Amanda Banks, Nivea skin care advisor. “People with this skin type, often mistakenly, look at what is being left out of a moisturiser when choosing a product. However, it is the active ingredients in this new line that will ensure the product soothes stressed, irritated skin.”

Skin care on call

The rise in the number of ‘doctor’ skin care brands has shown no let up with new lines making their way to an eager European audience.

One of the latest offerings comes courtesy of Leaf & Rusher, a joint venture between plastic surgeon Norman Leaf and Rand Rusher, a botox and collagen injection specialist. The two men embarked on creating a 9-sku skin care line, which was formulated in the Beverly Hills Medical Clinic. The products contain a blend of natural and enhanced antioxidants, retinols, messenger peptides, ceramides and plant and marine extracts and are said to target a whole host of skin concerns from lacklustre tone to age spots. Products include Green Tea Wash, Tx Eyes, Tx Night Formula and a Solar Screen.

Dermelect is another new line hitting the UK from the US. The 8-sku line is said to provide targeted solutions for problem areas with dermatologist tested ingredients. The cosmeceutical line was jointly formulated by medical professionals and licensed aestheticians.

SkinCeuticals and Strivectin SD, which have dominated the pages of women’s glossies in recent months have both launched new products. New SkinCeuticals’ topical vitamin C product range is antioxidant C E Ferulic Serum, containing L-ascorbic acid, tocopherol and ferulic acid, while Strivectin has targeted ageing eyes with a new eye cream containing a gentler formulation of the iconic anti-stretchmark cream to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

And one of the original doctor brands, NV Perricone MD has recently launched a range of olive oil polyphenol formulations said to be suitable for sensitive skin. The range, which includes cleansers, moisturisers, a face mask and lip balm, utilises the essential fatty acids of olive oil, an element that is key to the brand’s philosophy.

These ranges were originally perceived as niche brands, with a limited distribution but now big players Clarins and Estée Lauder are entering the fray with their take on the doctor brand.

Clarins is to launch My Blend by Dr Olivier Courtin, a range of specialised skin care solutions, which is due to roll out next spring. The 23-sku line-up will consist of eight day and night creams, which can be custom blended with a selection of seven ‘boosters’. The French beauty house estimates the products will retail at around $120.

Lauder’s Origins franchise teamed up with leading authority on integrative medicine, Dr Andrew Weil to launch a new skin care range that incorporates Origins’ wellness philosophy with cutting edge anti-ageing technology. The Dr. Andrew Weil for Origins Collection utilises the powerful antioxidant properties of mushrooms in its Mega-Mushroom Face Serum and Face Cream, which are claimed to optimise the skin's ageing defences, leaving it looking radiant and healthy. The key difference with this partnership, says Origins, is that the products do not promise to erase wrinkles overnight, rather promote healthier skin.

“Wellness is still a key driver at the moment as it reflects a fundamental shift in lifestyle behaviour across so many segments. Globally there is tremendous interest in healthy ageing and vitality,” explains Susan Akkand, vp Origins global marketing. “I believe that the look of vitality will replace the look of youth - it is that harmony between internal health and external beauty which will be the sign of status and desirability.”

Custom concerns

Customised formulas based on individual concerns and skin types has increased the segmentation of the skin care market leading to a flurry of more specialised products.

It is now possible to pick a product off the shelf for hyperpigmentation, men, teens, menopausal women and redness, rather than having to make a costly appointment with a dermatologist. As a result, consumers are becoming much more savvy in their product choices.

“I feel consumers are being empowered to know how to differentiate between the marketing hype and the actual science,” says Dr Leslie Baumann, professor of dermatology at the University of Miami and author of The Skin Type Solution. “For instance you can be an oily sensitive pigmented wrinkled person. This person is likely to have acne that leaves a dark patch and they will also develop wrinkles. They need acne, depigmenting and anti-ageing products but they need the right products.”

Olay leads the field in this category with the launch of Total Effects 7x Anti-ageing Blemish Care, the first moisturiser of its kind to combat ageing and target blemishes. Adult break-outs are also the inspiration for Chanel’s new Précision Pureté Idéale skin care line, featuring blemish busting and skin mattifying products for women aged 25-45. The line includes Serum-Intense Refining Skin Complex, T-Mat Shine Control and Blemish Control.

Elemis has taken targeted skin care to another level with the launch of Skin Solutions, a range of specialised products to combat and manage specific skin conditions. Products in the range include Daily Shine Control for oily skins, SOS Emergency Cream for sensitive skins and Daily Redness Relief to combat redness.

“There is a definite turn back to powerful formulations supported with good knowledge, moving away from miracles in pots of cream,” says Noella Gabriel, Elemis director of product & treatment development. “Let’s not put the skin into early retirement and design good products. I believe we need to go back to honesty with good product launches.”

The next step in this evolution is the introduction of depigmenting products. Already a regular feature in most bathrooms in Asia, depigmenting products are moving onto western markets. Estée Lauder’s Cyber White range for instance, already a success in Asia, is being adapted for Caucasian skins.

Baby boomers

Technology has been pushing back the boundaries of anti-ageing and the latest batch of skin care launches has seen manufacturers raise their game.

Lancôme targeted aged skin, rather than producing an anti-ageing cream when it launched Platinéum Complete Restructing Cream SPF15, aimed at women aged over 60. The cream, which is the result of nine years of research, contains calcium hydroxyapatite, said to replenish the skin's calcium content, an element that is lost in mature skin.

Helena Rubinstein, meanwhile has created Life Pearl Cellular for mature skin, which incorporates Phyto-Substitute and Cyto-Pearl Elixir, which together stimulate production of lipids and help to rebuild cells’ internal structure.

The technology used in these products has already filtered down to the mass market, with L’Oréal Paris launching Age Re-Perfect Pro-Calcium. Fronted by actress Jane Fonda, the cream boosts the skin’s calcium content to leave it firmer and more resilient.

Not surprisingly the level of technology used in these products commands a high price point, normally over £100. The emergence of these 'super luxe' products looks set to continue as more and more manufacturers add a top end cream to their product portfolio. Lancôme also launched Secret de Vie, Ultimate Cellular Restoring Cream, described as the ultimate luxury product by the brand, and incorporating six active ingredients to help revive and regenerate the skin. Guerlain entered the market with Orchidée Imperiale, the result of seven years of research. The cream utilises the potent anti-ageing properties of the orchid root to deliver a high-end skin care product.

The claims of many of these new products have been supported with exhaustive data but many specialists still question the miracle claims some manufacturers are making.

“Do more studies and give us data! I feel that companies should try harder to make accurate marketing claims,” says Baumann. “I get frustrated with the exaggerated claims about GABA and peptides.”

Future focus

With such advancement in technologies and a greater consumer understanding of the market, what lies ahead for the skin care sector?

“The biggest category I see potential growth in is the home care segment,” predicts Lewis. “Peel kits and microdermabrasion kits lead the pack but that is just the tip of the iceberg. Zeno for acne, Clarisonic for high tech cleansing and Wellbox for cellulite are just some examples of this expanding category.”

Bell adds: “Laser technology will amaze us. Soon it will be possible to have a cosmetic procedure with little or no down time. Within an hour you could be right again.”

One thing is clear. The market is growing at such a phenomenal rate that science fiction may very soon be science fact.