Whether real or suggested, diamonds and other gems have benefits both real and imagined to offer cosmetic products. Barbara Brockway takes a look at what's sparkling out there
Paul Simon’s song conjures up such a perfect image in your mind. This lady owns the world. She stands proud. She is so very special because she has ‘diamonds on the soles of her shoes’. It is this same image that carries all the successful diamond containing products that have recently appeared in the shops. Their users are going to be very special because they have a product that contains diamonds and everyone knows that diamonds are the best – they are after all the diamond standard. Diamonds are even seductive. Agent Provocateur’s signature scent collection is said to be the true secret of seduction. Its eau de parfum with diamond dust is described as sultry, dazzling and unique, having a passionate affair with diamonds! Real diamond dust particles shimmer and swirl creating a show stopping effect, which leaves the skin appearing luminous and luxurious with a dazzling diamond glow.
The trouble with being scientists is that we tend to ignore the show and worry about efficacy. We concentrate our efforts on putting actives into our products because they work. In most cases this is exactly what we are paid to do, but in some situations a product is successful simply because of the image that signature active invokes. So when we in R&D ask, why put diamonds into fine fragrance or even shampoo? Surely they don’t add fragrance notes or do anything for the skin, hair or scalp... we should remember that they do have a strong effect on the image of the product and, as fine hard particles, will exfoliate. La Prairie’s intense peeling range features a Resurfacing Complex with diamonds and the refining effectiveness of quartz crystals and smoothing properties of sweet water pearls, all combined in a micro-fine peeling lotion that evokes luxury.
EXCITING MINERALS
Tony Dweck has written an excellent article entitled Exciting minerals - An update, which describes wonderfully the background and properties of many of the minerals, including some of the precious gemstones, that are now available to formulators. Judging by the number of finished products containing diamonds, gemstone powders and extracts, a lot of people are interested in using these precious materials and have been keeping suppliers such as Soliance, Grant Industries and Active Concepts very busy.
Precious stones and metals have been used since before records began for their magical and therapeutic powers. Many popular claims are based on how these materials affect the chakras, the special energy centres that believers say permeate from a point on the physical body. Practitioners of Hinduism and New Age Spirituality believe the chakras interact with the body’s ductless endocrine glands and lymphatic system by feeding in good bio-energies and disposing of unwanted bio-energies. There are many books that guide the reader through the transforming properties of gems and minerals. A few are becoming popular in personal care so here are some of the chakra-related claims that they are associated with:
Jade associated with harmony and longevity, making this gemstone popular for anti-ageing, holistic products
Topaz believed to be awakening, tissue regenerating and helping with ‘the third eye’
Rose Quartz the love stone that reduces stress and tension. It is the colour of colloidal gold so makes a perfect partner for this deep pink liquid
Gold purifies and energizes, improving circulation with positive energy. The use of gold salts and gold ferments are not allowed in cosmetics in the EU, however colloidal gold is acceptable and as a metal it will carry current – so reduce static, as well as allow you to make a gold medal product
Tourmaline is one of the foremost heart chakra healers. It is used to treat stress and nervous conditions. From a scientific point of view, Soliance has data showing that this mineral triggers microcirculation and it is piezo-electric so it can emit energy in the far infra-red region. It is recommended for products that promote a healthy glow
Amethyst is believed to strengthen endocrine and immune systems and is calming and harmonizing. It could complement a product designed for blemishes. Soliance suggests amethyst powder in anti-cellulite products to stimulate the fat burn
Ruby aids regeneration and vitalizes blood so it has been recommended for its tonic effect
Citrine is yellow quartz that is believed to be good for joy and self-esteem and could be the cornerstone of destressing products as well as exfoliation, helping with microcirculation and improving skin complexion
DIAMONDS
Diamonds are considered by many to be the most precious and prestigious of all the minerals. They are believed to affect the chakras and enhance brain function. They are the master healers, dispelling negativity, while purifying and enhancing the full spectrum of energies. They are valued for innocence, purity and faithfulness and have also come to symbolise generosity, prosperity and love. Those of us who are more materialistic think of diamonds as being valuable because they are rare, but that is not strictly true. Most of us own, or have friends who own, diamond jewellery. We find them attractive despite their cost. Matrimonial engagements are commonly sealed with diamond rings and diamond jewellery, seen in nearly every jeweller’s window, has been a welcome gift for centuries. It is estimated that around 130 million carats (26,000kg) are mined and about 100,000kg are synthesized annually. Of this, 80% of natural diamonds and most synthetic diamonds are used in industry.
SYNTHETIC, NATURAL & CONFLICT
Synthetic diamonds, not to be confused with cubic zirconia or diamond-like carbon (DLC), an amorphous hard carbon, can be inferior, similar or superior to natural diamonds depending on how they are made. Because the main industrial uses for synthetic diamonds require them to be hard, they therefore do not necessarily sparkle. Synthetic diamonds can be used in personal care products but they are considered by some people not to be ideal. After all, the biggest trend in the personal care market is towards natural products.
Some synthetic diamonds could fall under the term nature identical as they can be made by imitating natural processes. This is the original method for making diamonds and is known as High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT). It is still used today because it is relatively inexpensive. The diamonds are made by almost reproducing the conditions found inside volcanoes, and presses weighing a couple of hundred tons are needed to produce a pressure of 5 GPa at 1,500°C. Another method for synthesizing diamonds is known as chemical vapour deposition, or CVD. Carbon atoms are deposited from plasma on to a substrate to form diamond. A more recent method uses the thermal decomposition of poly(hydridocarbyne) to produce diamond-like carbon. Other methods convert graphite into diamond, relying on explosive formation (detonation nanodiamond) or ultrasound sonication.
Natural diamonds are made when carbon-containing materials are subjected to very high pressure (45 and 60 kilobars) at temperatures between approximately 900-1300°C. These conditions are known to be met in volcanoes, in the lithospheric mantle below the continental plates, and at the site of a meteorite strike. Not all natural diamonds found on earth originated here. A type of diamond found in South America and Africa called carbonado diamond may have been deposited there via an asteroid impact (not formed from the impact) about 3 billion years ago. So far the only extraterrestrial ingredient available to the personal care industry is Active Concepts’ Meteorite Dust, but maybe an extraterrestrial diamond could also find its way into the industry.
Just under half of the world’s natural diamonds originate from central and southern Africa, so it is not surprising to find the South African company, Fekkai make a Sparkling Shimmer Spray containing diamond powder that is said to add a subtle, glistening glow.
The 2006 film Blood Diamond helped bring to the public’s attention the diamonds mined in war zones that are sold to finance the conflicts. Care should be taken to ensure that natural diamonds are conflict-free, ie diamonds whose profits are not used to fund wars and which are produced and mined under ethical conditions.
PERSONAL CARE GEMS
Natural diamond dust is the most desirable form of diamond used in personal care products. It has been available to formulators for a surprising number of years and is not as expensive as people tend to first think. The Grant Industries website explains why and how diamonds are measured in carats. It goes on to show how its diamond products can cost less than $0.50/carat and how it will only add about 14 cents to a unit. Active Concepts says its diamond dust is also very affordable and is now being used in mass market products as well as in prestige skin care. The interest in its diamond products has been growing exponentially and its customers are spread throughout the world. In America the trend is being called bling in a jar (New hope in a bottle: bling in a jar, NY Times, 26 April 2007). And the bling includes diamonds and gemstones, liquid gold, silver and platinum as well as silk and cashmere, pearls and caviar.
In a world living under the dark clouds of recession, a little bit of pampering becomes very attractive if not therapeutic. A quick market survey found over 70 personal care products – everything from nail products to shampoo – with diamond powder in their ingredient listings.
NAILS & COLOUR
As diamond is the hardest natural substance known to man, it is not surprising to see diamond powder being used in nail products designed to strengthen and exfoliate, but it is often the fire and sparkle associated with cut diamonds that really motivates formulators. Cibelle’s nail hardening polish and Avon’s Nail Experts nail strengthening complex have diamond dust as part of their nail hardening and strengthening formulas. Maybelline Salon Manicure Ultra Strong 3-in-1 Nail Coat offers not just strength but also wear and shine and is enriched with diamond powder, known for its strengthening power. Superdrug uses diamond powder in its diamond strength varnish which, when used on top of nail colour, is said to extend the wear of a manicure by providing a tough yet flexible protective coating.
Sally Hansen Mega Shine Extended Wear Top Coat is claimed to be an amazing top coat, dryer and sealer that provides mirror shine and incredible colour endurance. It is said to contain an exclusive Micro-Diamond formula with light-refractive diamond particles, which add shine and strength. Diamond Strength Cuticle & Nail Refiner by Sally Hansen also uses diamonds purely for their strength and hardness. The product is said to exfoliate cuticles and smooth nails in 60 seconds. Its Diamond Cuticle + Nail Creme is an intensive care cream for cuticles and nails. It is made with an ultra-rich formula created with micro-diamond particles, protein and vitamins to heal dry, cracked cuticles while smoothing and strengthening nails. Girl2go French Minicure 2-Step kit mentions shine and long lasting. Its formula for healthy strong nails contains diamond dust for a healthy, shiny, long lasting chip resistant finish. The Douglas Cosmetics nail product also promotes gloss and sparkle for shine. Douglas Nails Diamonds Are Forever Sparkling Top Coat combines silk proteins and diamond powder for ultra-brilliant and intense shine and protection. Avon’s Nailwear Nail Enamel (monochrome look) contains diamond and is said to have a glossy, long wearing, chip resistant formula. The real diamond dust and conditioners help strengthen nails and make them chip resistant with a long wearing formula containing xirona pearls and diamond dust that is claimed to last for up to ten days. Avon’s nail enamel is also available in Shining Rose Rainbow, which is designed to create a rainbow effect on nails, and this range includes a shade called Diamond Dust Rainbow. Interestingly, L’Oréal Jet-Set Diamant Nail Polish is said to take only one minute to give a diamond shine but while its Resist & Shine Vernis à Ongles is formulated with diamond dust it focuses its claims on the ceramide R to care for nails and the properties of the diamond dust are barely mentioned.
Diamonds are also being used successfully in colour cosmetics. Grant Industries offers an interesting combination of diamond powder with a premium silky silicone powder for soft focus effects and it is now busy researching into a much more advanced form of diamonds combined with silicones that will have unique properties for colour correction. The IsaDora mineral make-up line is described as being an incredibly soft, lightweight make-up that protects skin whilst allowing it to breathe. It is claimed to be the purest, most natural make-up available for use and features diamond powder.
SKIN, HAIR & FEET
La Prairie pioneered the use of diamond powder for exfoliation. The popularity of treatments such as acid peels and microdermabrasion has shown many older women how by simply removing the dull dead cells from the surface of their skin a more youthful look is restored. The therapeutic value of diamond however has been picked up by M.A.C whose limited edition product, Charged Water Skin Hydrating Mist, is described as being fused with vital ions from a diamond and is instilled with a spirit-lifting aroma, which hints at the therapeutic. It is claimed to make the skin feel clear, sparkling, pure and energized. Other products such as Gemology’s GemDiamant Crème Anti-Âge look to diamond powder to add “irresistible temptation of the benefits of an eternal stone”, bringing about a mind-blowing “natural lifting” effect. The cream is claimed to preserve the skin from time damage and offer it the strength of diamonds associated with the softness of orchids plus the unique sensation of the Christmas flower from New Zealand.
Diamond powder is now also being used in hair care. Fekkai Sparkling Shimmer Spray (Spray Scintillant Brilliant) is a limited edition spray that adds a sparkle to the hair. The spray is formulated with diamond dust crystals that add depth and panthenol to soften the hair and add shine. Diamonds are also being found more and more in shampoo where they mainly conjure up an image of luxury, but they are also included to evoke the idea of shine. Golden Hair Professional Shine Shampoo by Migros contains diamond particles said to provide a fascinating shine and vitality. It is also said to clean the hair mildly and eliminate dirt residues, so the light can reflect effectively.
Beiersdorf’s Nivea Hair Care Diamond Gloss Shampoo is enriched with diamond particles and arum flower extract. The shampoo is claimed to provide hair with brilliant shine and exquisite softness. The conditioner in the Nivea Diamond Gloss range also contains micro-particles of diamonds for extra shine. Diamond powder is affordable, as proven by the many shampoos and conditioners with diamond dust that are retailing at prices under €5. Clearly bling really has come to town, with diamond containing shampoos and conditioners being advertised on billboards and even buses.
For those who like the idea of having diamonds literally on the soles of their feet, Avon Foot Works Pedi-Brasion Scrub is said to contain diamond dust and aluminium oxides, while LCN Diamond Touch Concept Foot, a nourishing and fruity leg lotion with glitter, appears to use diamonds only in its name, which was perhaps a lost opportunity.
GREAT PRETENDERS
Various types of glitter are also available but these are connected to diamonds by name only. Sephora sells Diamond Powder, combining the pearly iridescence of star powder and the brightness of glitter. It is composed almost entirely of pure synthetic mother-of-pearl and the particles are finer and literally radiate extreme brilliance as soon as they are applied.
Procter & Gamble has taken diamonds into laundry detergent and softener products. Bold 2-in-1 infusions collection is a new premium range of luxuriously perfumed super sensory laundry products inspired by the world of fine fragrance. White Diamond & Lotus Flower is one of three new variants designed to indulge the senses with their exquisite smells that will last on clothes for up to seven days. No, it does not contain diamond dust but it does use the image and will give the user a sense of importance; you’ll feel very special because you have diamonds on the heels of your socks!
And apologies if you’re still humming that Paul Simon song and trying to remember which album it’s on – try Graceland, which incidentally was one of the highest selling US albums, selling over 14 million copies. I’m not saying its success was due purely to the lyrics ‘diamonds on the soles of her shoes’, but it may have helped.