PFAS in cosmetics: A regulatory challenge under the radar

Published: 18-Mar-2025

As the cosmetics industry faces increasing scrutiny, one of the growing challenges is the management of Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances (PFAS), also known as "forever chemicals."

These substances, known for their unique properties, are commonly used in many  cosmetic products. However, as environmental and health concerns mount, the regulation of  PFAS is evolving rapidly. Industry players must be proactive in adapting to the shifting  regulatory landscape, as PFAS are now a key focus for authorities worldwide. 

PFAS in cosmetics: Between performance and risk 

PFAS refers to a group of human-made chemicals known for their water-, oil-, and temperature resistant properties. In cosmetics, PFAS are often included in formulations to provide long lasting effects, such as waterproof makeup, long-wear foundations, and certain skin creams.  They also help improve texture and enhance the sensory experience of the product. However,  PFAS can also appear as unintended impurities due to the production processes of precursor  chemicals used in cosmetic formulations. 

Despite their benefits in cosmetic performance, PFAS present significant risks due to their  persistence in the environment and accumulation in the human body. Over time, they can  cause serious health issues, including liver damage, immune system disruption, and  developmental problems. 

Regulatory Spotlight: Addressing PFAS concerns in cosmetics 

The regulatory landscape around PFAS is rapidly changing, and the cosmetics industry must  stay ahead of new regulations. In Europe, significant efforts are underway to restrict the use of  PFAS. The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) is evaluating a proposal by five member  states (Denmark, Germany, the Netherlands, Norway, and Sweden) to limit the manufacture  and use of PFAS across the EU, with expected changes taking effect after 2026. This  represents one of the EU's most ambitious actions to address the risks of these chemicals.
 
In France, the government is taking bold steps with the introduction of a comprehensive action  plan (PFAS 2023-2027), which includes a law passed on February 20, 2025, banning the use  of PFAS in cosmetics starting January 1, 2026. This ban applies to the manufacture, import,  and export of cosmetics containing PFAS, with very few exemptions. Details on specific  thresholds and legal frameworks are still being finalized, but this law signals a firm commitment  to reducing the presence of these substances in consumer products. 

In the United States, similar actions are being taken. The MoCRA law includes a requirement  to evaluate the use of PFAS in cosmetics, while California has already the AB 2771 law, which  takes effect in 2025, prohibits the manufacturing, distribution, and sale of cosmetics containing  intentionally added PFAS. Several states followed this initiative, and PFAS are restricted or  even banned in most of them like Minnesota, Connecticut, Washington or New York. 

Ensuring compliance: The role of advanced testing 

With the tightening of regulations, the detection of PFAS in cosmetics is becoming essential.  Eurofins Cosmetics & Personal Care offers advanced analytical testing to help manufacturers,  finished brands… identify and quantify PFAS in both formulations and packaging materials.  This ensures product compliance from the development stage and avoids the risk of non compliance, while giving companies peace of mind in the face of increasing regulatory  requirements.

As regulations surrounding PFAS continue to evolve, the cosmetics industry must prioritize  innovation and transparency. By staying ahead of regulatory changes and investing in  advanced testing methods, companies can ensure the safety of their products and maintain  consumer trust.

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