Natural and innovative fragrance ingredients strike the right note

Published: 29-May-2018

Balancing new naturals with innovative collaborations and cutting-edge technology, the perfumer’s palette is becoming increasingly dynamic. Emma Edwards looks at some recent developments

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Fine fragrance houses and brand owners are always looking for new trends and directions – and therefore new odours or fragrance compositions.

This means that perfumers are in turn also looking for new and interesting materials.

"Those being sought might be deemed unusual due to their sustainability, production method, geographical location, biosynthesis or simply a new discovery in terms of an aroma blend or even a molecule," says Lisa Hipgrave, Director of IFRA-UK.

The nature of science

Within these broad parameters, natural complex substances tick a number of boxes – particularly for their green credentials and interesting provenance, which can lend a whole new storytelling dimension.

But it is largely thanks to advances in ingredient technology that perfumers are now able to access a growing portfolio of new materials with the potential to formulate creative new concepts.

The use of biotechnology, for example (also referred to as 'white biotechnology'), is driving developments in bio-based ingredients at Firmenich.

The company successfully pioneered the industry's first bio-based ingredient, Clearwood, in 2014 – a warm woody note developed sustainably from sugarcane – which has since been joined by 'a sustainable amber note' known as Ambrox Super.

"With these breakthrough ingredients, we are

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