9-Feb-2015
Peeling, flaking and thinning nails - Recommendations for a host of nagging nail issues
The problem... peeling or flaking nails
Diet, water exposure, dehydration and over-zealous filing and buffing
can all cause nails to peel and flake. Bryony McMillan, OPI Educator,
warns: “If the nails are filed in a ‘see-saw’ motion the movement can
cause flaking. Don’t opt for cheap files as they can be very harsh; the
rough, uneven surface can tear the natural nail. Only file the nail
across in one direction and don’t buff the nails more than once a week;
over-buffing causes thinning and can lead to peeling.” Crystal nail
files are generally regarded as the most gentle and effective,
requiring much less action for a good result. Picking off nail
enhancements like acrylics can also cause nails to flake, as layers of
the natural nail are also removed: ensure customers always leave
removal of enhancements to the professionals. Regular use of hydrating
treatments can also help. Charlotte Knight, founder of Ciaté, says:
“Especially during the winter, nails can become dehydrated causing them
to peel and flake. To avoid this I would recommend a good nail oil to
nourish the cuticles and treat nails from the bottom up. Marula oil in
particular contains powerful antioxidants that hydrate deeply while
nourishing, healing, moisturising and improving nail health and skin
elasticity.”
The problem... thin, bendy nails
Nails often become very thin and bendy after the removal of
enhancements like acrylics or after too many gel manicures. A
deficiency of calcium can also cause weak, bendy nails, so encourage
customers to ensure they have a balanced diet that provides the calcium
they need, and to supplement if necessary. Regular use of strengthening
nail treatments will help to harden the nails and prevent them from
splitting and breakage, and over-filing and buffing should be avoided.
The problem... nails that break easily
Nail breakage is a frustrating and often painful, yet common annoyance.
Knight explains: “If nails are too brittle and dehydrated this can
cause breakage and they won’t grow past a certain length, a bit like
hair. I created a product to respond to this need: Status Grow. This
hydrating, anti-oxidising complex of vitamins A, B5, C, E and F
activates keratin production to stimulate nail growth while respecting
the natural physiology of the nails.” Regular use of nail and cuticle
oil will also help to keep nails hydrated and flexible, and therefore
less likely to snap. Most women have also experienced the pain and
misery of a severe nail break, and the resulting confusion about how to
treat it. McMillan suggests: “Nails can break because they’re too long
for the lifestyle and get in the way of everyday life. Try to keep
them at a sensible length to avoid breaks but if they do occur too far
down the nail to cut and file away, try using nail glue to hold it in
place until it grows out. Ensure the nail is cut down to prevent it
catching on anything.”
The problem... dry, ragged or overgrown cuticles
Cuticles have a specific purpose: they protect the nail bed from
bacteria and dirt, preventing infection. For this reason they should
never be cut, according to McMillan: “As the cuticle’s purpose is to
protect, if it is cut or removed it can grow back a lot thicker as the
body quickly tries to repair and replace it. Use a cuticle treatment
twice a week such as OPI Avoplex Exfoliating Cuticle Treatment as this
contains AHAs, which eat away at the dead skin and help to reduce thick
cuticles, eliminating the desire to cut them off,” she says. The
treatment should be applied and massaged into cuticles before pushing
them back gently with a cuticle stick, then washed off with soapy
water. Daily application of a moisturising cuticle oil will help
prevent cuticles from drying out and splitting.
The problem... polish doesn’t last
If customers complain that colour doesn’t last on their nails, make sure they’re following a few simple
steps designed to maximise the longevity of their polish. Knight
advises: “One thing that often gets missed out from a manicure routine
is ensuring the nails are completely clean of any oils or dirt that
might cause polish to lift or chip prematurely. I would always
recommend to cleanse with nail polish remover, even if they are free
from polish, or use Ciaté Base Balance to eliminate excess moisture and
ensure absolute polish adhesion.” When nails are completely dry a base
coat should be applied to ‘anchor’ the colour and to protect nails from
staining, then colour should follow. Sam Watkinson, Louella Belle
Educator, says: “Paint thin layers of colour as thick coats are prone
to chipping, and don’t forget to finish with top coat.” This will add a
desired finish (gloss or matte) and help to prevent colour chipping for
longer lasting colour.
The problem... a colour rut
Look to the spring/summer 2015 runways for colour inspiration to pass
onto customers that are bored of wearing the same nail colours. Adam
Slee, Rimmel London Nail Expert, says: “There was a big trend for block
nail colours on the catwalk this SS15. Graphic nail art is also a big
trend this season: pair clashing block shades together to create a
simple yet effective nail look. For me the twist on a traditional red
nail was most interesting, with different depths and tones being worn
at shows like Alexander McQueen and Ungaro. Red is the new nude! It’s
key to pick the right shade for your skin tone: the contrast of paler
skin works best against vampy red nail polish, while darker skin tones
can wear bright red shades.” For the less adventurous, inspiration may
come from the past, according to Knight: “It seems that every year we
never stray too far from traditional trends,” she says. “Spring is
always about pastels and more muted colours, and summer is about
accentuating a tan and playing with colour. But I am seeing more
texture for this spring, particularly more matte, chalky finishes.
Summer is either about monochrome shapes or metallic foils.”
Helping Hands
Perfectly manicured nails are often let down by less-than-lovely hands.
These areas are often exposed to environmental aggressors like
pollution, UV and harsh weather, and therefore age more quickly than
other parts of the body, meaning extra TLC is necessary to keep them
looking and feeling as healthy as possible. Nicola Kilner, Group Brands
Director at Deciem, which produces Hand Chemistry, says: “Although many
people understand the importance of using highly active ingredients
within their facial skin care, hands are often left neglected. Even
during the coldest months they are often left exposed to the
environment. With moisture loss contributing to one of the most obvious
signs of skin ageing (dehydration), it is really important to protect
the hands from harsh, drying effects instead of simply covering up
dryness with surface moisturisers. Hand Chemistry’s Extreme Hydration
Concentrate not only encourages the skin to create more of its own
hyaluronic acid, it also uses a Protective Shield Matrix to act as an
invisible glove on the surface of the skin, ensuring moisture is kept
in and the hands remain protected.” As well as hydrating with a good
hand cream regularly, a number of other preventative steps can help to
keep hands looking and feeling healthy. Tracy Mort, Managing Director
and Co-Founder of Grace Cole, advises: “Protect your hands when
gardening and doing the housework, especially when washing up. Invest
in a pair of latex-free rubber gloves and ensure you wear
them! This will help to protect the delicate skin on the back of
your hands from harsh cleaning agents and the drying effects of
overexposure to water. Once the moisture barrier of your skin has
been compromised, it’s hard to restore. You can tell that your moisture
barrier has been compromised when your skin prunes! When in the sun
always wear a good quality sunscreen; choose a product with a minimum
SPF 20. This will help to reduce the chance of developing age spots and
protect skin from UV damage. While washing your hands, use mild pH
soaps and make it a point to immediately follow with lotion, and apply
lashings of hand cream… to intensely hydrate and revitalise hands and
nails, and to leave them smooth and youthful.”
The Brand Guide
Grace Cole Boutique Softening Hand
& Nail Cream is enriched with natural extracts that work
together to intensely hydrate nails and revitalise hands, leaving them
soft, smooth and youthful-looking. Meanwhile, Boutique Cleansing
Handwash cleanses hands with natural extracts and leaves them
refreshed, soft and delicately scented. Both are available in six
scents: Wild Fig & Pink Cedar; Grapefruit, Lime & Mint; Orchid,
Amber & Incense; White Nectarine & Pear; Nectarine Blossom
& Grapefruit; and Vanilla Blush & Peony. RRP from £4, Grace
Cole, gracecole.co.uk.
Seche Rebuild helps to
strengthen thin, weak, soft or peeling nails. The unique protein
formula seals the layers of the nail together. With each application,
it reinforces and thickens nails, providing durability while promoting
strength and flexibility. RRP £11.29, Louella Belle, louellabelle.co.uk.
butter LONDON Nail Apothecary
is a boxed set of travel size nail treatments designed to act as a
‘medicine cabinet’ for the fingertips, helping to strengthen, protect,
repair and hydrate nails. The set includes Melt Away Cuticle
Eliminator, an exfoliating gel to decrease cuticle size and hardness;
Horse Power Nail Fertilizer, a rejuvenating treatment to strengthen and
repair nails; Nail Foundation Flawless Basecoat, a silk-finish,
stain-resistant base coat; Hardwear P.D. Quick Topcoat, a wet-look top
coat; Matte Finish Shine Free Topcoat, to turn any colour flat and
matte; and Handbag Holiday Cuticle Oil, a coconut and pineapple scented
nourishing oil. All products are free from formaldehyde, toluene and
DBP. RRP £35, butter LONDON, butterlondon.co.uk.
Hand Chemistry Extreme Hydration
Concentrate repairs dry skin and protects it from the elements
with its complex of five active technologies from marine and plant
sources. The Pseudoalteromonas Complex leaves hands softer and more
confortable, while a unique HA Pre-Cursor encourages skin to
consistently create more of its own moisture. RRP £18.99, Deciem,
handchemistry.com.
OPI Hawaii Collection brings
the bright colours of its namesake island to nails for spring/summer
2015. The 12-strong collection features a palette ranging from muted
tones of mint, peach, pink and nude to bolder hues of coral, green,
purple and gold. The Little Hulas Mini Nail Lacquers set includes Suzi
Shops & Island Hops, a light pink; pastel mint green That’s
Hula-rious; reef-inspired purple Lost My Bikini In Molokini; and Aloha
from OPI, a bright, creamy coral. RRP from £11.95, Coty Beauty,
opiuk.com.
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