We live in a hugely multicultural society and as a result, you’re likely to cater for customers with a wide range of skin tones and resulting needs. By understanding the specific beauty needs of women of colour you can help them to find the right products to care for their skin and hair.
Skin
There are several differences between Caucasian skin and that of other races, according to celebrity make-up artist and beauty industry diversity champion, Eryca Freemantle: “There is a significant difference between non-white and white skin, from pigmentation levels to dryness, and resistance to stripping of PH levels,” she explains. “Cosmetic manufacturers should not group all women of colour together; instead, they should review their R&D strategies in order to produce products that meet the unique needs of the Indian, Oriental, Asian and African skin.” One of the main differences between white and black skin is that the latter contains much more melanin (the colour pigment that gives skin its dark appearance). While this means those with dark skin are more protected against UV-induced photo-ageing, sun damage can still take its toll on skin in the form of hyperpigmentation, due to the increased action of melanin-producing cells in their skin, so daily broad-spectrum UV protection is still crucial. In addition, dead skin cell build up is more obvious on dark skin, appearing ‘ashy’, so regular exfoliation is important – but as dark skin shows scarring more easily, opt for gentle exfoliators that won’t scratch skin. Asian skin similarly experiences a delayed onset of ageing due to the increased pigment in their skin, but it’s not the only subtle difference, according to Farah Naz, founder of EX1 Cosmetics: “Asian and Hispanic women have higher collagen levels in skin than their black or Caucasian counterparts, which is great news for women of this skin type. However, for those with yellow pigments the downside is that any inflammation, for example through acne or injury, can result in hyperpigmentation. It is also more sensitive to chemical exposure and can be oilier, so EX1 Cosmetics products are completely oil free,” she says.
Make up
The specific needs of black and Asian skin require targeted make-up. Sara Ali, head of marketing at Sleek MakeUP, explains: “Darker skin tends to be oily, which means products that mattify and control shine are popular. Due to the increased level of melanin in the skin, black women also suffer from hyperpigmentation and blemishes. High coverage foundations and concealers are therefore a must.” Eryca Freemantle says: “The real need for all women of colour is for a genuine colour match in foundation; black skins alone have over 52 different shades, and this doesn’t include the different skin tones of Asian and Oriental communities. Darker skins require the correct undertones and formulas that work with their specific skin tone.” Farah Naz adds: “One of the key reasons olive skin tones require specific formulas is that they have olive/golden undertones instead of pink/red. EX1 Cosmetics products use unique yellow/golden undertones, which complement the natural pigments in Asian and exotic skin.” Because both black and Asian skin are more prone to pigmentation, certain ingredients should be avoided, says Naz: “Avoid pore clogging ingredients and use products that incorporate healing ingredients, such as antioxidants, which can help heal blemishes faster. A key ingredient that olive skinned women should avoid is bismuth, which can increase hyperpigmentation. Unfortunately this is a common ingredient in many mineral foundations.”
Hair
Afro and Asian hair differ from Caucasian in several ways, with Afro differing the most, according to trichologist Iain Sallis: “Afro hair shafts are usually dry, woolly and vulnerable to breakage, and direction of hair growth varies throughout. It may differ in the distribution of lipids and protein fibres throughout the hair shaft, making it thinner and then thicker randomly. It is this uneven distribution of proteins that also adds to the extreme curl or kinks in Afro hair.” Hairdressers Journal Afro Hairdresser of the Year 2012, Craig Chapman, adds: “Afro hair is much drier in texture so it is important to make sure hair is moisturised and oiled regularly. ” Breakage is also a major problem for Afro hair, often caused by chemical treatments like relaxing. Chapman says: “It’s mostly from poor maintenance, relaxers and weaves. I encourage my clients to give their hair a rest – pack in the chemicals and weaves, condition your hair and embrace the natural curl! Always have a wide toothed comb or Afro rake to hand when styling because a narrow comb will tear the hair and cause breakage.”Asian hair also has its own specific characteristics, says Sallis: “Asian hair has twice the diameter and a much thicker cuticle than Caucasian hair; grows faster than Afro or Caucasian hair; and has the longest cycle of growth. Because hair is thicker and sometimes longer, it also tends to lose more moisture which can lead to dryness and split ends.” Recommend split end and moisturising hair treatments if your Asian customers are experiencing dryness, or hair care specifically designed for long hair.The brand guide
Noire Essence comprises four products that infuse moisture into Afro-Caribbean curls and smooth relaxed hair. Free from harsh ingredients that can contribute to dry, weak and brittle hair, they include moisturising Aquarich complex; strengthening wheat protein; and Kapilarine complex to boost hair growth. RRP from £16, Noire Essence, NoireEssence.com.
Fashion Fair True Fix Foundation, the new revolutionary foundation for
women of colour, minimises imperfections, promotes even skin tone and
conceals problem areas with a semi-matte finish. Each compact contains
two complementary cream colours that are smooth, easy to blend and
provide maximum coverage. With 30 different shades and 15 compacts to
choose from, visit debenhams.com to find your perfect match. RRP £23,
Fashion Fair, fashionfair.com.
EX1 Cosmetics is a make-up range specially formulated for exotic skin,
from Asian to far eastern, middle eastern and Mediterranean, taking
into account both skin tone and their differing biophysical
characteristics. The products mimic the natural yellow/golden pigments
found in exotic skin. RRP from £6.50, EX1 Cosmetics, ex1cosmetics.com.
Mary Kay TimeWise Foundation creates flawless skin and fights the signs
of ageing. It’s available in 21 shades and two formulas: Luminous, for
normal to dry skin, leaving it looking firmer, younger and healthier;
and Matte, to provide all-day shine control for combination to oily
skin. Both reduce the appearance of pores, fine lines, wrinkles and
imperfections. RRP £16, Mary Kay, marykay.co.uk.
