The in-focus feature at in-cosmetics 2010 will throw up interesting synergies between the two concepts of fashion and beauty. Organiser Jacques Sebag explains how in-focus will explore this dynamic
The relationship between fashion and beauty has always been a complex one. Couture brands increasingly have a presence in the cosmetic market and vice versa, with some innovative developments in both sectors as a result.
The 2010 in-cosmetics show will take place in Paris – the home of fashion. There in-focus will explore the intricate relationship between the worlds of fashion and beauty. How will the city’s haute couture creations inspire the formulation of super-sensorial textures? What can we learn from new functional textiles that will help us design advanced second skin cosmetics? In response to these questions in-focus will showcase a unique series of original, ultra sensorial formulas designed by some of the most creative suppliers from the personal care industry.
CONNECTING FASHION & BEAUTY
Both fashion and cosmetics are used to shape our appearance. They contribute to the way in which we express our identity and persona to the rest of the world.
Couture brands have tended to extend their boundaries to cosmetics, and many moved into beauty in the mid-20th century. Christian Dior, Givenchy, Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent have not only all developed cosmetics lines but also have their own dedicated R&D centres, and are often at the forefront of the latest cosmetic innovations. And of course make-up, hairstyles and skin care are integral parts of a fashion show that help to create iconic images. The make-up on a model is an extension of the fashion brand’s identity, and therefore reflects its personality.
Conversely, the words used to describe cosmetic textures are often borrowed from the textile register; creams and foundations evoke delicate cashmere, light silks or soft velvets. Ultimately both textiles and cosmetics form one category – that of a second skin.
But technically what is interesting is that the same polymers or colour technologies can be used to develop textiles and cosmetic textures. Natural fibres used to create clothes are increasingly being put to innovative uses in cosmetics. Keratin for example, derived from cashmere, is also popular as a texturising agent in a number of cosmetics.
And the concept of cosmeto-textiles has gone one step further, now offering garments with a personal care function or cosmetic textures that behave like textiles. The Cognis Group is leading this innovation with its Skintex functional textile. Made from natural ingredients such as vitamin E, passion fruit and olive oil derivatives, Skintex is incorporated into clothes to deliver a moisturising, cooling or energising effect to the wearer.
THE LIMITS OF SYNERGY
However, it is also clear that trying to define some products, such as an anti-ageing cream, as a fashion object may fail to acknowledge its true purpose – that it is first and foremost a skin care product. The world of personal care is divided into sub categories of very distinct products and expectations: make-up, hair care, toiletries, sun care, skin care etc. Even though the boundaries between these are sometimes blurred – make-up and sun care providing anti-ageing features, day creams playing with light and incorporating UV protection – in essence, the products can be very different and enhancing appearance is not always the sole purpose. Many skin care brands have a medicinal origin and skin-doctors’ products are becoming increasingly popular. Similarly, the growing importance of well-being in personal care is driving us away from fashion. It’s not about how we look but how we feel.
Nevertheless, with these two very distinct worlds, it is understandable that active connections should be explored. Beauty products have a sensorial dimension and by linking this to fashion it is possible to generate some inspiring concepts.
Nowadays, more and more consumers want products that are in tune with their own philosophy on life and will choose brands that go beyond functionality and actively emphasise their beliefs and lifestyle choices. Understanding the importance of fashion helps us grasp the essence of beauty products in their most emotional role.
FUTURE FASHION TRENDS
This year we have collaborated with design and advertising agency Carlin International to anticipate three fashions trends for 2011. These are based on the creative work of both avant-garde and renowned haute couture designers. Laboratories, ingredients suppliers and private label companies – Arch Personal Care Products, ABC Texture, Affix, BASF, Creations Couleurs, Croda Group, Dow Corning, Gattefossé, Laboratoire BF, Labosphère, Merck, SACI-CFPA, Sinerga, Stéarinerie Dubois, Strand Cosmetics and Symrise – will be drawing inspiration from the designers’ collections to create new product concepts, prototypes and textures to make this year’s in-focus the best yet.
SPC & cosmeticsbusiness.com will be keeping you up to date with developments in the build up to in-focus at in-cosmetics.
in-focus takes place at in-cosmetics 2010, 13-15 April in Paris at Porte de Versailles. Visitor registration is now open. To register visit www.in-cosmetics.com
