Towards a deeper understanding of skin ageing
Long considered a natural result of time and external aggressions, skin ageing is now understood to stem from a deeper, silent imbalance; one that weakens the skin and undermines its natural ability to defend and regenerate itself. This imbalance leads to visible signs such as wrinkles, loss of firmness, and tissue sagging.
While the clinical signs of aged skin are now well documented, the molecular and cellular dysregulations involved mean that skin ageing remains a largely misunderstood process.
To maintain healthy, vital skin and promote healthy ageing, cosmetic solutions primarily target the synthesis of dermal extracellular matrix proteins, such as collagen and elastin.
Embracing new, more integrative approaches - sample of better reflecting the skin's biological complexity - will open the door to the next-generation of anti-ageing solutions.
Deregulated bioactive lipids at the heart of skin ageing
It is within this context that Gattefossé and Ambiotis have combined their scientific expertise to study the role of pro-resolving lipids found in the secretome, in interaction with macrophages - true sentinels of the immune system - and fibroblasts, the key architectural cells of the dermal extracellular matrix.
Gattefossé and Ambiotis have thus characterised and modelled the alterations of pro-resolving lipids observed in aged skin, revealing that these changes disrupt the interactions between macrophages and dermal fibroblasts. As a result, dermal fibroblasts become abnormally activated, adopting a pro-inflammatory and pro-degradative phenotype marked by increased secretion of matrix metalloproteinases.
An integrative approach to cosmetic to tomorrow
This joint research conducted by Gattefossé and Ambiotis aims to design and develop innovative cosmetic solutions to combat skin ageing.
"Maintaining homeostasis is a fundamental element of human physiology. Fortunately, our bodies, tissues and skin are well equipped to do it, thanks in particular to the so-called specialised pro resolving mediators. These lipids play a key role in enabling the body to move from a state of imbalance to a restored state of equilibrium. Encouraging the increased synthesis of these lipids is tantamount to reinforcing the skin's own beneficial mechanisms, helping to prevent ageing and preserve the skin's vitality."
Marc Dubourdeau, CEO of AMBIOTIS.
"Its is becoming essential to rethink cosmetic intervention through the lends of more integrative anti-ageing approach. The tissue integrity of the skin can be no longer be viewed solely in terms of the balance between synthesis and degradation of extracellular matrix components. Targeting pro-resolving bioactive lipids is now a key strategy to preserve skin health and effectively combat ageing within a holistic healthy ageing framework."
Nicolas Bechetoille, Head of Skin Biology Research at GATTEFOSSÉ.
