After a number of false starts the men’s skin care market is really taking off and formulators need to be using materials and technologies that will target specific male needs.
In April 2006, Imogen Mathews wrote: “The maturity of the men’s grooming market has been a long time coming. Not so long ago, men would have been reluctant to admit using a deodorant or shower gel, let alone a brand with a For Men label. Men’s grooming meant little more than a daily wash with soap, a shave, and perhaps a splash of something sweet-smelling on special occasions”.[1]
According to data published by Euromonitor, male skin care spend in the UK already out-values that on pre-shave and post-shave and hair, bath and shower products and is second in value only to deodorants and antiperspirants. Under 35s living alone are responsible for 24% of spend on personal care products in Europe. In 1971 24% of men and 19% of women were single; this increased to 34% of men and 26% of women in 2000. This means that a large proportion of men no longer have access to whatever product their partner places in the bathroom, whether purchased for them, like shaving products, or for the partner’s own use, like cleansers and moisturisers. Because of this growth many of the main ingredient suppliers have investigated the men’s grooming market and produced presentations full of statistics and ideas.
In essence, the retrosexual uses an all-in-one cream and maybe some cologne, the urbersexual uses facial cleansers and moisturisers and the metrosexual uses buttock firming gel and artificial sun tanning products.
Through the ages
“There are three types of man. The Retrosexual, who takes very little interest in grooming and represents about 43% of the male population of British men; the Ubersexual who invests in grooming but only with rationale, and the Metrosexual, described as urban males of any sexual orientation, who have a strong aesthetic sense and spend a great deal of time and money on their appearance and lifestyle; they are the fashion-conscious target audience of men’s magazines. |
Uniqema |
There are differences between male and female skin. In males testosterone increases collagen production resulting in thicker skin whilst lower levels of estrogens mean less hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is a moisturiser and gives skin a smooth, firm feel, which is one reason that female skin is softer than male skin. High levels of androgens increase the size of sebaceous glands leading to increased sebum levels and larger pores and young males are prone to acne. Because of these factors men need different products to meet their different skin care needs.
As with women, men’s skin care needs vary with age. For the younger male it is particularly important to avoid oily and greasy products and to use non-comedogenic ingredients. Uniqema hosts a computer-generated selection process online called Senselect.[2] By inputting high spreadability with low greasiness it is possible to obtain a number of suggested ingredients and emulsifiers and combinations of these that give starting points for formulating compositions with the desired properties. Some suggestions are: glyceryl isostearate or ethylhexyl cocoate with Arlatone V175 as emulsifier; isohexadecane or triethylhexanoin with Arlacel 165 as emulsifier; and diisopropyl dimer dilinoleate or isopropyl isostearate with Arlatone LC as emulsifier.
As the male begins to age more moisturising is suggested. The light, non-greasy vehicles formulated for the younger male give way to more effective skin protection. Senselect suggests oil-in-water emulsions based on Arlatone 2121 [INCI: Sorbitan stearate (&) sucrose cocoate] with emollients such as PPG-15 stearyl ether, triethylhexanoin and squalane and caprylic/capric triglyceride. Dimethicone, sweet almond oil, cocoa butter and shea butter and various combinations of these are also suggested. For a richer feel the same emollients may be used in w/o emulsions based on Arlacel P135 [INCI: PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate].
There are many other systems and in addition to the emulsifiers already named the author also favours Montanov 68 [INCI: Cetearyl glucoside (&) cetearyl alcohol] from Seppic and Olivem 1000 [INCI: Cetearyl olivate (&) sorbitan olivate] from B&T Srl for the preparation of light and readily absorbed emulsions based on liquid crystal technology.[3] Another one of interest is Phoenomulse 100, launched in 2005 by Phoenix Chemical as a new emulsification system for volatile and difficult to process oils, silicones, solvents and esters. The emulsified system forms quickly with minimal sheer at room temperature and remains thermodynamically stable and can then be used within a wider emulsion or suspension system if required.
“The most important characteristic of men is that they prefer simple things, with easy steps and no-nonsense. They are not interested in multifunctional products, opting instead for the no fuss and minimalist approach to their personal care routine. For this reason, shaving and the basics dominate, despite sophisticated offerings. Furthermore, men pay more attention to a product’s functionality than criteria such as fashion or brand image, which may be secondary considerations. They seek products that deliver results.” |
Seppic |
For the older male deeper, more aggressive cleaning and exfoliation may be required (is there really a better exfoliant than using a sharp razor over face and neck at least once a day?) and everyday sun protection will help ward off age spots and wrinkles. Skin tone may be of concern and there are various materials claimed to even out skin tone and to lighten complexions.[4]
Keeping it clean
Cleansing skin is of paramount importance, and especially for the acne-prone this must be done using very mild ingredients. Previous features on surfactants and bathroom products have focused on these.[5,6] Generally speaking sulfosuccinates, alkyl polyglycosides, sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, isethionates and cocoamphoacetates can be used for face and body washes and may be incorporated into facial cleansers, scrubs and exfoliating products. From Phoenix, Phoenomulse CE-1 is a pre-emulsified product utilising Phoenomulse 100 and a fluoro-silicone ether. This novel product, when used in a surfactant system, offers innovation in spontaneous foam burst technology, with stable, creamy foam produced on the skin without the need for pressurised packaging. It can also be used to give added texture to creams, serums and other leave-on products.
Adding viscosity to mild cleansing products can be problematic. Even if sodium chloride works it is contra-indicated and formulators turn to PEG-150 distearate, xanthan gum, cellulose thickeners and commercially available specialities such as the Promidium products from Uniqema. Many others are available, as discussed in previous articles.[5,6]
“Drivers of male grooming are now very similar to those in the female market including image creation, emulation of celebrities and enhancement of attractiveness and delay of the ageing process as well as pleasure and the maintenance of health. Body image is very important and incorporates body, mind and spirit. As a result, men are looking for brands with multi-solutions.” |
Symrise |
Product specifics
Having formulated suitable cosmetic vehicles the next decision is what to use them for and what additives are available to transform these into fully functional products.
Avoiding irritation is particularly important for male skin, especially the 15 to 35 year age group and there are various ingredients suggested for reducing irritation caused by shaving, either as additives to a wet shave product or for pre-shave and after-shave compositions.
Silab offers Calmiskin, a peppermint-based material used at 2 - 5% to calm skin irritations and to leave it cool and refreshed when used in after-shave balms and light moisturisers. It is also claimed to stimulate release of endorphins to stimulate a sense of well-being. Menthol is good for instant cooling but to extend the sensation other additives are required. Menthyl lactate in combination with menthol forms the basis of Koko ML from Sino Lion and menthyl lactate is also available in itself from A&E Connock, as Covafresh from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies, as Frigydil from Prod’Hyg and as Frescolat ML from Symrise, which also offers Frescolat MGA [INCI: Menthone glycerin acetal]. Menthyl PCA and menthol are the principal ingredients of Questice Plus from Quest. Cooling Agent 10 is menthoxypropanediol, available from Takasago International and from the same company Coolact P is isopulegol. For more information on cooling agents and their chemistry plus evidence for their use as insect repellents see Cooler than Menthol.[7]
“Nowadays men are a growing profitable consumer group which the cosmetic industry cannot ignore, and in fact it hasn’t. More and more brands are developing men only lines, from toiletries to skin care, focusing on the needs of the male consumer, who looks for functionality, efficacy and practicality but also for an eye-catching concept that connects with his personality, his lifestyle and his aspirations.” |
Gattefossé |
Avenanthramides are the active components of oat, responsible for its anti-histamine activity and anti-inflammatory and anti-itch properties. SymCalmin from Symrise is a 5% solution of a synthetic avenanthramide, dihydroavenanthramide D and is suitable for after-shave products to counteract shaving rash. Penta-pharm’s Eashave is a mixture of wheat germ extract, Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract, sodium hyaluronate and disodium cocoamphodiacetate in aqueous solution with anti-irritant properties. This moisturises the skin and also replenishes sebum lost during the shaving process. From Seppic, Sepicalm is a mixture of sodium cocoyl amino acids, sarcosine, potassium aspartate and magnesium aspartate, said to have a calming and moisturising effect on stressed skin and to decrease erythema and stinging following shaving.
Allantoin has long been a favourite ingredient for aftershave products for its wound healing properties. A material with scar healing properties is Calophyllum inophyllum (Tamuna) oil, available from Eurofarpoint. It is said to have anti-fungal, antibacterial and antioxidant properties and to deliver skin benefits such as improved elasticity, smoothness and firmness and to provide anti-wrinkling properties. From Arch Chemicals, Biodynes O3 [INCI: Saccharomyces ferment lysate filtrate] is recommended for lipid barrier protection and repair. Acqua-Biomin Zinc Y3 promotes cell turnover of the dermis and assists in the healing process and Biodynes TRF is a yeast ferment mixture said to increase oxygen utilisation of skin cells, increase collagen synthesis and elastin formation and to act as a soothing anti-irritant.
There are scores of moisturising agents available to the cosmetic formulator. If you’re looking for something new from a vegetable source Variati & Co offers Hydroveg VV. This is described as a synergistic blend of hydrolysed wheat proteins, lysine and sodium PCA with urea, allantoin and lactic acid, which closely resembles the skin’s natural moisturising factor (NMF) to prevent and correct skin dryness. The same company also provides IS Avocadato, the ester resulting from the transesterification reaction of isostearyl alcohol with avocado oil and described as a skin friendly ester, especially suitable and effective for the treatment and recovery of skin lipid equilibrium. Its polarity characteristics and molecular arrangement help skin protection through a significant reduction of TEWL and its blend of fatty chains essentially reproduces those in human sebum.
Hydroviton 24 from Symrise is also said to mimic the skin’s NMF and is described as a synergistic combination of humectants, hygroscopic substances, skin rejuvenators and skin protectants. Its principal ingredients are sodium lactate and lactic acid with glycerin, serine, urea and allantoin. It also contains sodium chloride, which is said to act as an osmotic equaliser, plus sorbitol and pentylene glycol. From Seppic, Aquaxyl, based on xylitylglucoside, anhydroxylitol and xylitol, is described as a restructuring and moisturising agent suitable for soothing aftershave products.
“The metrosexual stocks his medicine cabinet with prestige grooming products, maintains an impressive up-to-date wardrobe and visits chic salons for a variety of men’s aesthetic services that include hairstyling, facials, manicures and body hair removal.” |
Symrise |
Greentech’s Cariciline, is an extract of fig (Ficus carica), which contains the protease enzyme ficun. This is rich in galacturonic acid and other pectins, free sugars and malic acid. It is an effective moisturiser and sensorial tests elicited the response that it provided a refreshing, softening effect and an improved sense of well-being. Also from Greentech, Hydralys is an extract from Cucumis melo, which contains 95% water, mucilage and vitamins and has softening and moisturising properties on sore and dried skin.
Taking control
The metrosexual does not wish to be seen covered in body hair and looks for ways to reduce it without resorting to waxing and other forms of human torture. ARP 100 from Greentech is an aqueous-alcoholic solution of Serenoa repens fruit extract, Epilobium roseum extract and Cucurbita pepo seed extract, which is said to inhibit hair growth. Sederma’s Depiline is also claimed to reduce hair growth by slowing the mitosis rate of the keratinocytes of the hair bulb.
And finally, Silab suggests Actiflow [INCI: Saccharomyces cerevisiae] extract to reduce dark circles under eyes and to improve the appearance when hung-over. And those buttock firming gels? There are many firming and slimming ingredients available and what works on a woman’s thighs should work on the male buttocks. Suggested starting points are BodyFit from Sederma, based on glaucine and said to stimulate lipolysis by calcium flow regulation, and Volufiline, also from Sederma, which is claimed to increase the formation of adipocytes tissue to enhance the curves of breast, buttocks, hands or feet.