APD - Calm confidence

New product development has helped push the apd sector into a new league, with additional benefits borrowed from skin care technology driving sales. SPC reports

Add-on products and advances in product development do not intrinsically lend themselves to the apd category but the last 12 months have seen manufacturers working to change this perception.

From hair growth minimisers to skin enhancing vitamins, the buzzword in the apd sector at the moment is multifunctionality. Such developments have been available for the last few years but only as a very niche market. The difference now is that the trend is seeping through to the big players, who are offering additional cosmetic benefits.

KMI looked to its shaving range, King of Shaves for the inspiration behind its King of Deos Woman line. The hair growth minimiser used in the brand’s moisturiser was used in the new range.Vanish hair is said to provide all day protection whilst helping to reduce hair re-growth thanks to the addition of xyleine - a blend of papaya and citrus extract.

“The deos market has seen little innovation outside of advertising and packaging and the new added product benefit is likely to cause a stir that could see the likes of Unilever and Procter & Gamble extending product lines with similar initiatives,” says Claire Briney, senior account manager, Euromonitor.

Elsewhere, UK supermarket Waitrose launched a new roll-on deodorant with vitamins E and B5 to its Pure range, while Nivea utilised the skin caring properties of pearl extract for its latest offering Pearl & Beauty. The product, which is being marketed as a beauty product for your underarms, offers dryness with a soft velvety finish, whilst evening out skin tone, according to Nivea. The scent, which reads more like an olfactive description of a fine fragrance, is another unique aspect incorporating subtle notes of apple blossom, peony, French rose and water lily.

“Advanced claims add value to the category,” explains Mintel’s Jenny Catlin. “Skin friendly attributes also continue to be important, with vitamin and mineral fortification, botanical and herbal ingredients and pH neutral and hypoallergenic formulations becoming more widespread.”

Sanex is proud to boast it is the only deodorant range to be accredited by the British Skin Foundation and its latest project will surely go some way to retaining this accolade. Excel, launched at the end of 2005, plays on the recent trend for compact deodorants and is designed to be used as many times as a 150ml aerosol spray, but is half the size due to a concentrated water-based formula which uses half the gas. Traditional 150ml formats use a silicone-based formula. It is also said to be kinder to skin due to the softer spray delivery.

This idea of well-being for underarms has been taken one step further by Palmolive Soft & Gentle, which is utilising the benefits of aromatherapy in its latest offering, Palmolive Soft & Gentle Aromatherapy Tranquility. The new product contains a blend of essential oils including sandalwood, rose and cedar and is said to be kind to skin even after shaving.

Crystal clear

White deodorant marks, the scourge of every fashionista, have been banished thanks to the new wave of ‘invisible’ deodorants. Playing on the fashion theme has been central to all new launches over the past few months. Dove’s Invisible Dry is said to offer 24-hour anti-perspirant protection and the promise of no white marks on the user’s clothing.

Right Guard meanwhile launched Invisible Protection and Bourjois added SOS garde robe to its portfolio. The apd is said to dry quickly enabling the user to dress immediately and promises not to leave stains on clothing or underwear.

The surge in popularity of this new breed of apds has also boosted the natural crystal deodorant market. Bionsen’s Deo Total Body range, winner of the Product of the Year award, has extended its Active Minerals formula to its entire range. The product works by using natural active crystals, which when dissolved help prevent the growth of bacteria. The product line-up now includes spray, roll-on, stick and Deo No-Gas.

A man’s world

“The main driver of growth over the last five years has undoubtedly been the male market and young men are highly responsive to brand advertising,” states Catlin. “Within men’s deodorants and body sprays, sexiness, spontaneity and a world full of possibilities are evoked by the brand leader Lynx in recent television advertising.

New from Lynx is Click, which comprises body spray, apd aerosol, stick and roll-on. The line has been supported by a £7m support campaign featuring Hollywood actor Ben Affleck and is described by Lynx brand manager Lauren Gold as “one of the biggest things to hit male grooming this year”. According to brand owner Unilever, the Lynx master brand is currently worth £110m so investment in the new variant is well placed.

Sure has also tapped into the brand advertising opportunities open to the male apd sector with the introduction of a limited edition Sure Sport football range. The products each feature a country flag on the packaging and were launched to coincide with the FIFA World Cup.

With manufacturers becoming ever more savvy about the marketing opportunities available outside the traditional confines of the apd sector, it seems there is plenty of opportunity to help push growth in this once again dynamic sector.