We have entered a new era in terms of skin care science, says Katerina Steventon, and it is taking a front row seat at upcoming scientific meetings
Science has become increasingly important in the development and formulation of skin care products, and they are (in general) safer and more effective. Research shows that patterns of genetic activity in the skin change with ageing. Specific active ingredients can modify gene expression and beneficially affect these detrimental changes. Responsible manufacturers invest their reputation into their brands and build trust with consumers by delivering products that satisfy their needs. However, regardless of the advances in science and attractiveness of claims, clear marketing and communication is important for the industry to retain its credibility. The use of jargon and exaggerated claims in an attempt to win over consumers does not work well in advertising, as it can make them feel patronised.
Demystifying skin care and bringing the science to consumers in a palatable form is an important task. Successful past initiatives include:
- the ‘Cosmetics: amazing science applied daily’ workshop at the British Science Festival organised by the Society of Cosmetic Scientists (SCS) and The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA), and
- evening lectures given by both industry and academia, for example ‘Sex and the City – The Emerging Role of Human Skin’ at the Royal Society of Chemistry and ‘Skin Deep at the Centre’ for Fashion Science in London. These talks covered themes like the toxic allure of the suntan and first hand experience of a struggle with basic skin care that could save lives in the developing world.
In addition, charities like the National Eczema Society and the Skin Care Campaign are using simple communication to show the complex pathophysiology of skin disease as a cartoon and use language that can be understood by a child of six. Other examples include YouTube educational videos on melanoma (SunSmart) or the treatment of eczema (Evocutis).
But I am particularly excited about the forthcoming scientific meetings in 2012. Monitoring advances in disciplines borderline to skin science like dermatology, medical devices and nutrition, brings an innovative edge to my scientific thinking. And in 2012, the science of functional skin care comes to the fore beginning on 8 March with Professor Paul Matts from Procter & Gamble delivering the Medal Lecture to the Society of Cosmetic Scientists (SCS) in London.
in-cosmetics, an annual event showcasing the diverse range of skin care technologies, will take us to Barcelona on 17-19 April 2012. The event, now in its 22nd year, will feature a skin clinic to demonstrate the skin damage caused by sun exposure and seminars discussing science and marketing trends. In addition, the Mintel Innovation Zone will inform and inspire formulators looking to create new cosmetic products with the latest ingredient
and product launches.
The 5th SCS Annual Scientific Symposium takes place on 30-31 May in Dublin on the theme of ‘Cosmetic Science: The Good, The Bad and The Beautiful’. Among the speakers is Dr Sile Lane from Sense About Science who will talk about how scientific reporting influences consumer decision making and benefits the skin care industry.
A significant scientific and industry event, the third biannual Anti-Ageing Conference, will take place at the Royal College of Physicians in London on 12-13 June. Entitled ‘Nurture and Nature’, this year’s conference will feature talks on the science of skin ageing, covering genetics, structure and ethnic differences; anti-ageing strategies including actives and their penetration; consumer perception of product benefits and efficacy; new approaches to skin testing and clinical data required to substantiate product claims; as well as the differences in advertising regulation in specific markets (FDA, ASA and Clearcast). This meeting brings together industry experts from all aspects of anti-ageing skin care and will provide insights into current thinking.
A purely scientific meeting, Stratum Corneum VII, organised by the International Society for Stratum Corneum Research will take place in Cardiff 10-12 September 2012.
The symposium will explore skin structure and barrier function in detail, looking at new perspectives on epidermal differentiation and desquamation; biophysical measurement of barrier dysfunction from dry skin to atopic dermatitis; and antimicrobial peptides. It will attract leading international experts from industry and academia. Skin Forum, focusing on improving scientific understanding of topical and transdermal applications, will follow this meeting.
The 27th International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) Congress, entitled ‘Beauty in Diversity –
A Global Village’, takes place in Johannesburg (15-18 October 2012), followed by the annual SCS Formulate exhibition in Coventry (14-15 November 2012).
One of the most significant roles of skin care is the positive impact it has on our self-esteem and for the majority of consumers, confidence in their appearance is very important. As 2012 is an exciting year for skin care science, communicating research findings in simple and clear terms that can be translated to daily skin care routines should be an imperative for us all.