Formulators of cosmetics products are reconsidering the role of sensory analysis in the product development process.
To appeal to consumers in highly saturated markets, products should not only provide good quality and be visually appealing, but also offer interesting and engaging experiences.
Texture and sensory properties are some of the key aspects influencing consumers’ choice of personal care products. It is the way the product looks, feels, performs, effects the mood, creates a special “me time” experience.
A scent of a product has immense powers to trigger purchasing behaviour, and helps to create a strong brand loyalty when introduced as part of product launch marketing strategy.
Therefore, research on sensory evaluation needs to be linked to research on product aesthetics, product meaning, and product emotions.
"The Feel of Luxury" is the new concept Brenntag team is unveiling at SCS Formulate 2016.
It builds on the formulations the company presented at InCosmetics in Paris and focuses on further exploring inspiring textures and sensorial attributes that innovative ingredients can bring to cosmetics products.
Thomas Argent, Sales Manager for Brenntag UK & Ireland says: “The briefs we receive from our extensive customer base are very diverse. They seek to introduce innovation to improve formulations and look to achieve specific characteristics of a product, ranging from moisturising, revitalising, protective, mild, mattifying, to anti-ageing, visual perfecting and high defence.
We are delighted to be launching the brand new concept at SCS Formulate, the leading cosmetics ingredients trade show in the UK, bringing the collection of formulations for skin care, body care, hair care, face care, sun care and colour cosmetics”.
Special attention has been given to the growing male grooming sector. According to Rachael Simpson, Marketing Manager of Stephenson Group, the male skincare market “has grown significantly, driven by the fact that men have started spending more time looking after their skin. Research tells us that as much as 50% of UK men believe facial skincare products with natural ingredients are better for their skin”.
Brenntag are showcasing eleven new formulations based on their extensive expertise and broad personal care portfolio with key suppliers such as Bluestar Silicones, Isca, Textron, Stephenson Group, Cargill, Colonial Chemicals, Innovi, and Brenntag Specialties.
Francois Bouton, Manager of Brenntag’s European Cosmetics Laboratory in Amiens, France, says: “Across our many cosmetics concepts we have looked at a number of skin care applications such as creams, cleansers, lotions, masks, oils, micellar waters, butters, UV protection, baby care concepts and many more.
It is exciting to see Brenntag ideas being adopted by our customers, leading to new product lines being launched on the store shelves. Formulations for “The Feel of Luxury” concept work with novel ingredients such as Cosmos/ECOCERT surfactants, natural and vegetable derivatives, as well as preservative boosters and natural choices for preservations”.
Hair, skin and nail care
Multi-Sensorial Hair , Skin and Nail Winsor III
This 3-phase product with strong visual impact offers a versatile delivery system for all kind of active ingredients. The 3-phase could be boosted by water-soluble or oil-soluble ingredients such as vitamins, herbal extracts, peptides and fragrances.
Mirasil Caprylyl TSO (Bluestar Silicones) provide emolliency, gloss and smoothness to keratin of hair, nail or skin. Thanks to Seven Scent fragrance used, the scent of this product would bring the true sense of luxury to the consumer.
The formulation also features one of the latest additions to the Brenntag Cosmetics ingredients portfolio: DUROSOFT (Stephenson Group) which is a new range of naturally derived polyglycerol esters, formulated to produce ingredients for creams, lotions and foaming oil-based formulations, offering specific value to brands looking to make natural and sustainability claims.
Male Grooming
Face and Beard Cleanser
This product has cotton texture and silky touch. In contact with water, the translucent gel transforms into a light emulsion that leaves the skin clean and moisturised.
GPS-S Aqua (Innovi) protects the skin and creates a physical barrier against external aggression such as pollution, allergens, and extreme weather conditions. Oils from Textron used in this formulation as emollients to condition the skin are a perfect addition for excellent skin feel.
Body Care
Beauty Glove Hand Cream
With its light yogurt-like texture and pleasant sensory profile, this fluid easy-to- spread cream rapidly heals dry hands, leaving hands feeling soft and smooth after application, preventing further dehydration.
We would highlight the combination of two advanced silicones by Bluestar Silicones, Mirasil Balance and Mirasil Caprylyl TSO, which provide key benefits to this formulation.
Face Care
Forever Young Eye Serum
The combination of Mirasil Micropearl 40 (Bluestar Silicones) and PMMA-S (Brenntag Specialties) provide significant cushioning effect and smoothness. Cream- gel texture; light and fresh on application, leaves the skin hydrated.
This innovative eye serum absorbs quickly without oily residue, offers tightening effect. Assessed by the expert panel.
Redefining powders
Brenntag specifically looked at powders in formulations during one of the recent Brenntag projects in partnership with Ecole de Biology Industrielle, France.
Bouton explains: “The powders are ingredients increasingly used outside of the traditional colour cosmetics segment (providing soft after-feel) in the formulation of cosmetic products for the sensory qualities they give.
For instance, in skin care and sun care, powders can improve the performance and enhance the feel of the skin, providing a number of several sensory attributes such as powdery, silky and velvety. I am excited to be once again speaking to SCS Formulate delegates and will debate the use of powders- as well as the results of our study – during the Brenntag Inspire seminar at the event”.
You can now register to attend the presentation by Francois Bouton at SCS Formulate:
The feel of luxury: novel texturising and sensorial concept
Time: 14:50-15:10
Date: 16th November, 2016
Location: Room A
References:
Mintel Market Sizes, August 2015
Mintel GNPD, July 2015
M. Moussour*, M. Lavarde†, A.-M. Pens_e-Lh_eritier† and F. Bouton (2016) Sensory analysis of cosmetic powders: personal care ingredients and emulsions,International Journal of Cosmetic Science, pp.1-7
Lukic, M., Jaksic, I., Krstonosic, V., Cekic, N., and Savic, S. (2012) A combined approach in characterization of an effective w/o hand cream: the influence of emollient on textural,
sensorial and in vivo skin performance. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, pp. 140–149