Consumers start using cosmetic products increasingly early in life and teenagers have very specific requirements for their hair and even more particularly their skin. John Woodruff suggests how to control sebum and avoid irritation
Major perfume houses have long produced trends forecasts but more recently ingredients suppliers have been doing the same. Consequently there are some interesting ideas available as suppliers produce ingredients designed to meet future consumer demands.
Lubrizol believes that in a world dominated by instant communication and retail globalisation everyone is in danger of looking alike. To counteract this is the emergence of the individual as the star and for these consumers it is all about I-dentity: my life, my style, my way. These consumers seek to customise products to create their own form of self-expression.
Teenage males are interested in cosmetic products to support their style; they look after their skin, they shape their hair and they are not afraid to use colour. They want formulations that enable easy restyling to suit their mood of the moment. They use hair styling products incorporating funky wet fibres and hair waxes that encourage creativity and playtime. Formulators should develop styling products that claim extreme hold and are sweat and party-proof, and enable users to target themselves at not just the hair, but the attitude, the individual and the lifestyle.
To enable these formulations Lubrizol-Noveon claims Fixate Superhold styling polymer [INCI: Polyacrylate-2 crosspolymer] is designed to generate the hardness of hold demanded by young consumers without having the drawbacks of excessive flaking, tackiness and poor resistance to humidity that is common with more traditional resins. Its hold, strength and clarity is pH dependent and recently completed work demonstrates Fixate Superhold formulations are able to claim water-proofing. It is compatible with carbomer rheology modifiers enabling a wide range of product forms to be created, from clear gels and pump sprays to hair waxes.
Pentapharm (DSM) has produced a trends presentation that suggests teenage behaviour starts younger and even girls aged just 8 - 10 use make-up, skin care products and perfume. According to Pentapharm young skin needs protection against intrinsic and extrinsic ageing and requires moisturising, regulation of sebum production and even anti-wrinkle treatment. It suggests Preregen [INCI: Glycine soja (Soybean) protein oxido reductases] which limits free oxygen radical formation and shows protease inhibiting activity thus maintaining skin elasticity and protecting the cell membrane. Another suggestion is Colhibin [INCI: Hydrolysed rice protein], which protects skin from collagenase-induced damage caused by UV-radiation.
Young skin needs moisture and Pentapharm suggests Pentavitin [INCI: Saccharide isomerate]. Described as a carbohydrate complex, it is highly substantive to skin and creates a moisture reservoir that can only be removed by desquamation. Alpaflor recommends Nectapure, said to be a natural combination of Swiss mountain water with extracts from Buddleia davidii and Thymus vulgaris that are cultivated organically in the Swiss Alps. It claims excellent anti-oxidative properties combined with protective and moisturising activity to maintain skin radiance and vitality.
SEBUM CONTROL
The biggest problems faced by any teenager are spots and blemishes. Mental suffering can be out of proportion to the number of spots but self-esteem is very important, especially at that age. There are licensed pharmaceutical products available and cosmetics must be very careful about making real or implied claims. However, there are cosmetic ingredients that if incorporated in a properly formulated composition can help prevent or alleviate skin problems.
Regulating sebum production is an essential part of maintaining healthy teenage skin and its natural mechanism can often be assisted by cosmetic products. Pentapharm markets Alpaflor Alp Sebum, an extract from an Alpine plant cultivated in the Swiss Alps called Epilobium fleischeri. The active is recommended for oily and sensitive skin and in-vivo studies have shown a reduction in size and appearance of pores, a reduction in skin inflammation and a reduction in the production of 5 α-reductase. This enzyme produces dihydrotestosterone, which stimulates the production of sebum. Under hormonal and environmental influences it can lead to an excess of sebum and is a favourite target for sebum regulating ingredients.
Regu-Seb from Pentapharm is a clear, yellow to orange and slightly viscous solution containing polyphenol-rich fractions from Seronoa serrulata, Sesamum indicum (sesame) seed extract and Argania spinosa kernel extract. Its polyphenol formula, consisting mostly of lignans and phytosterols, helps to control and reduce sebum production. Silab supplies Sebonormine based on an extract of Spiraea ulmaria or meadowsweet, which is offered as a triple action anti-seborrhoeic active ingredient to remedy and control excess sebum. It has an antimicrobial effect and reduces the appearance of enlarged pores.
Beraca promotes Beracare Triple A system based on Copaifera officinalis oil, Carapa guaianensis nut oil and Euterpe oleracea fruit oil as a three-point approach to combating acne. Seborylis from Paroxite comprises Epilobium angustifolium extract, Tropaeolum majus plant extract, Terminalia chebula extract and zinc that is said to reduce 5 α-reductase activity and to have a holistic effect on the causes of acne as the plant extracts have antimicrobial, astringent and anti-inflammatory activity. Epilobium angustifolium is also the source of the active ingredient in Canadian Willowherb from Unipex Innovations Laboratories. It is an inhibitor of 5 α-reductase and has antibacterial activity against Propionibacterium acnes (P.acnes).
Oily & Combination Skin Complex from Greentech is a multi-mix of extracts from Nasturtium officinale, Arctium lappa root, Salvia officinalis leaf, Citrus medica limonum fruit, Hedera helix, Chamomilla recutita, Asparagopsis armata, Lavendula angustifolia and Saponaria officinalis that is claimed to regulate sebum production. With even more ingredients Anti-Acne Complex from Exsymol comprises extracts of Humulus lupus, Cucumis sativus, Aloe barbadensis, Saponaria officinalis, Chamomilla recutita and Asparagopsis armata for sebum regulating. It also contains silanediol salicylate, hydrolysed elastin and hydrolysed collagen, PEG-35 castor oil, propylene glycol and sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and is said to prevent bacterial development, cleanse and moisturise the skin and to stimulate microcirculation. Acnacidol BG from ISP Vincience is a combination of 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid and decanediol aimed at re-establishing the physiological balance in acne-prone skin. Clinical studies provided excellent results for sebo-regulation and it also has antibacterial activity against P.acnes.
Excessive sebum production leads to blocked follicles; the oil is oxidised by air, turns black and forms a comedone or blackhead. The blocked pores provide an ideal environment for P.acnes to multiply, secreting lipases that break down the cell wall spilling bacterial antigens, fatty acids and bacteria such as Staphylococcus aureus into the skin to form the typical acne lesion. Products that prevent the blockage of pores or soften and remove existing comedones and prevent P.acnes multiplying are in common use for teenage skin.
IRRITATION AVOIDANCE
Although cosmetic products should mitigate skin problems, improperly formulated ones can exacerbate the problem. Materials to avoid are unsaturated oils and esters that can be oxidised, which lead to comedone formation. Instead so-called non-comedogenic materials should be used. These are mainly saturated or branch-chained esters that have good slip and lubricity. Isostearyl lactate appears to be of particular use as it is non-comedogenic and an excellent solvent for sebum.
Avoiding irritation by using mild cleansing agents and materials that reduce inflammatory responses are a sensible part of a teenager’s skin care regime. Via-Pure Boswellia from Actives International is described as a 5-lipoxygenase inhibitor that also inhibits leukocyte elastase, Anti-GAGase and Cathepsin D. It is offered as a topical anti-irritant, as a soothing agent, and for relief of chronic or excessive skin damage and finds particular use in shaving products. From the same company another useful additive for reducing irritation caused by shaving is Abyssine 657. This material is an aqueous solution of Alteromonas ferment extract and is claimed to reduce the expression of ICAM-1 that results from chemical and physical attack on the skin.
Salicylic acid in various forms is a favourite material for treating acne problems and is found as salicin and salicoside at up to 11% in willow. Willow also contains organic acids including salicylic, vanillic, syringic, caffeic, p-hydroxybenzoic, coumaric and ferulic as well as oligosaccharides and polysaccharides. When topically applied it has an exfoliating action resulting from a decrease in corneocyte cohesion and an increase in corneum layer desquamation caused by inhibition of enzymes involved in the corneocyte cement process
Bio-Pol β from Arch Personal Care is an aqueous, water soluble product based on modified glucomannan derived from the Japanese konjac tuber and the active extract of the black willow, Salix nigra, the bark of which is rich in naturally complexed salicylic acid and the extract is standardised to contain 10% of this material. Glucomannans are high molecular weight heteropolysaccharides made up of glucose and mannose on which are grafted alkyl sulfonate chains on the side chain groups of the polysaccharide molecule creating a material with both hydrophilic and lipophilic groups. Arch literature shows Bio-Pol β reduces the surface tension of oil and facilitates its dispersion into droplets. These droplets are distributed evenly along the skin’s surface, minimising their presence and feel. When incorporated into cosmetic formulations, it will control the flow of the natural skin lipids over the surface of the skin, reducing the oily appearance and leaving the skin feeling more natural.
Tricosolfan from Vevy is an extract of willow bark in aqueous solution and also from Vevy, Salycuminol is a combination of the esters isopropylbenzyl salicylate and isodecyl salicylate derived from the active constituents of willow and cumin with anti-inflammatory effect shown to reduce the redness of sensitive and spot prone skin. DSB CN from Exsymol is a functionalised organic silanol [INCI: Silanediol salicylate], which uses the salicylate radical to add anti-inflammatory and soothing activity to a product that already claims moisturising and skin regeneration properties. Gransurf 155 [INCI: Disodium PEG-8 lauryl dimethicone sulfosuccinate] from Grant Industries is an alkyl modified silicone copolyol sulfosuccinate serving primarily as a sebum control surfactant with a low irritation index.
Trikenol from Provital is a synergistic complex of two botanical ingredients - Leptospermum scoparium (manuka) and Salix alba (willow) - enriched with salicylic compounds. Willow extract is widely employed in cosmetics and dermatology due to its hydrating, keratolytic and detoxifying properties. It also acts as an astringent, analgesic, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial agent. Its keratolytic activity is a property shared by alpha hydroxy acids. Multifruit BSC from Arch Personal Care is a mix of Vaccinium myrtillus (bilberry) extract, Saccharum officinarum (sugar cane) extract, Acer saccharum (sugar maple) extract; Citrus Aurantium dulcis (orange) fruit extract and Citrus medica limonum (lemon) extract. It contains about 30% lactic acid and 15% glycolic acid plus citric, tartaric and malic acids.
Because of its relative insolubility in water and its low pH when in solution, salicylic acid is not the easiest of materials to incorporate into formulations. It can be solubilised using sodium borate, ethanol and propylene glycol and the pH raised to a more friendly 4.8 to 5.4. Hest G-18-O from Global-7 is a mix of glycereth-18 and glycereth-18 ethylhexanoate able to solubilise up to 20% salicylic acid into a clear solution that remains transparent at 0°C. Pecosil PS-112 from Phoenix Chemical is a 100% active water soluble anionic silicone phosphate [INCI: Dimethicone PEG-7 phosphate] that solubilises up to 25% salicylic acid to give a clear solution at room temperature. Carbopol Aqua CC from Noveon is polyacrylate-3 crosspolymer that can be used to modify the rheology of surfactant-based cleansers containing salicylic acid, forming clear gels with elegant flow characteristics that will suspend scrub agents to create consumer appeal.
An alternative to desquamation with salicylic acid and AHAs is Lanablue from Unipex. This is an extract of blue micro-algae and is a retinoid-like material presenting the same genetic expression as vitamin A, but without any side effects such as irritation, dryness and skin discomfort. Lanablue enables mild exfoliation of the upper layers of epidermis and improves the texture and microcirculation of the skin. The algae is naturally rich in bio-available vitamins of group B, plus vitamins E, C and A, pantothenic acid and biotin, choline and niacin. It also contains a number of minerals and trace elements that balance the homeostasis of teenage skin.
SCARRING SOLUTIONS
A post-acne condition is the appearance of physical and pigmented scars that may only be removed by microdermabrasion, chemical peeling or laser resurfacing. As always, prevention is better than cure and some cosmetic actives could be effectively used in preventing the appearance or even the removal of post-acne scars. This is the claim Unipex makes for Drieline, a beta-glucan obtained from the bakery yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae that reinforces the natural skin defence system and by activating collagen synthesis promotes cell renewal and promotes healing of acne lesions and is effective when used as a skin repair ingredient in anti-acne treatments. ISP Vincience markets a surface-active complex called Vital ET [INCI: Disodium lauriminodipropionate tocopheryl phosphates], said to be particularly effective for sensitive skin in acne-prone skin.
Acne is considered a disease in the UK and no claims can be made for its prevention or treatment in a cosmetic product. Cosmetic products should avoid the words treat, prevent, cure or heal, although the words redness, blemish, help prevent etc appear permissible. Inflammation is also a medical condition and cosmetic products cannot claim to be “anti-inflammatory”. As well as checking the patent position of the materials described here it is recommended that expert advice be sought about any claims that are made on the label.