How to create a facial cleansing oil with excellent emulsifying properties

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Cleansing is perhaps the most important step in a skincare routine. It removes makeup, sunscreen, pollen, dirt, pollution and whatever impurities may build up on the surface of our skin over the course of a day.

Facial Cleansing Oils are one of the Japanese cleansing rituals that have been used for centuries. Beauty products from Japan are usually associated with efficacy, high quality and benefit-led features, and Facial Cleansing Oils are not an exception.

Facial Cleansing Oils are oil-based cleansers that contain an emulsifier (surfactant). Selecting the oil is important, as it affects cleansing performance and skin texture. It also characterizes the product concept, that could be mildness and natural look, for example.

The main function of the surfactant is phase inversion, and therefore the selection of the surfactant affects rinsing ability. It enhances stability against turbidity with good compatibility with oil and solubility performance.

A significant component of Japanese beauty is “double cleansing” and it can be done with only one product. The first step of double cleansing is to remove makeup, dirt and impurities with the effect of oils while nourishing the skin. The second step consists of rinsing off with water; an oil-in-water emulsion is created which helps dissolve the oil cleanser and rinse it off without leaving any oil behind.

RHEODOL 430V (Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate) is one of our unique J-Beauty ingredients in the skin market. It is a non-ionic emulsifier (HLB 10.5) with high compatibility with many types of oils, especially with polar oils such as vegetable oils and also in formulations containing silicone. This safe, non-irritant ingredient allows obtaining fine uniform emulsions or even transparent solutions. Suggested use level for oil-based cleanser: 10 - 20%.

Recommended operative method:

Mix all ingredients at room temperature. Homogenize for some minutes.

How to use

Apply some amount of cleansing oil with your hands on dry skin. After a gentle application on the face and around the eyes, wet your fingertips and massage it. When the oil turns into a light, milky emulsion, it can be easily removed with water.

  • Clear Liquid: Apply some drops of the oil on the skin.
  • Pleasant oily feel: Massage the oil cleanser on the skin.
  • Light emulsion: The oily cleanser turns milky when water is applied.
  • Smooth Rinse-off: Easy rinse-off. No greasy residue. Moisturizing feel.
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    Kao Chemicals Europe (more information, website)