Beyond Beauty Paris 2009 - Move with the times


Beyond Beauty Paris is an exhibition that has always seemed to embrace change, and the seventh edition of the show thrived on it. A move to the heart of Paris and a refocused offering featuring three trade shows boosted visitor numbers

Beyond Beauty Paris is an exhibition that has always seemed to embrace change, and the seventh edition of the show thrived on it. A move to the heart of Paris and a refocused offering featuring three trade shows boosted visitor numbers

Beyond Beauty has encountered many changes since its inception seven years ago. The latest edition, which ran from 13 to 16 September, was also its inaugural one at Paris Expo Porte de Versailles. Hosting over 500 exhibitors, Beyond Beauty Paris is the second biggest professional European beauty event after Cosmoprof, offering three trade shows in one event dedicated to beauty and wellness.

More than 19,000 visitors poured through the doors this year, a 4% increase on 2008.

Cosmeeting housed 70 emerging brands and featured a large Natural & Bio area devoted to natural, and particularly organic, beauty products. Zoom is an area of Cosmeeting devoted to new brands, many of which were launching at the show, and was joined by a new section, Beyond Zoom. This section included niche brands that, whilst not completely new, are still in their infancy.

Creative, which was home to more than 230 beauty suppliers, spanned packaging, private label, equipment and ingredients.

The European Spa Exhibition formed the final side of the Beyond Beauty story, a new look show with 85 exhibitors covering 100m2 of exhibition space. The content of the European Spa Summit was also reworked this year to great acclaim – all 100 delegate seats were booked for each of the four sessions. The show's conference programme also covered developments in ingredients and packaging, while workshops included The Packaging Convention, a round table which brought together designers, manufacturers and brands. Mintel offered a presentation entitled

You are what you eat: How ingestibles are revolutionising the market, while IFOP (Institut Français d'Opinion Publique) announced the results of their French consumer survey on the economic crisis (see p940).

Beyond Beauty 2009 had much to offer visitors, but there is little doubt that the relocation to central Paris was key to bolstering the final numbers. Speaking to ECM on the second day of the show, David Bondi, president of ITEC France, the event's organiser, explained: “People enjoy being in a city centre. It will help to be here. It is even easy for international groups like Estée Lauder to commute to the show. For the L'Oréal group alone, nearly 450 people have pre-registered.” Exhibitors were also positive about the relocation. Fanny Marouani, founder of niche skin care brand Pomarium noted: “The location in central Paris is much better. Visitors can come here and then go straight back to work. It is an international show, but it's good to be in Paris.” In addition, the show's close proximity to the offices of many beauty companies impacted on the rate of returning visitors as 45% of visitors revisited the show a second day or more. Another reason for the success of this year's event was the industry's current need for consolidation, said Bondi. “We are all going through turbulent times, and this is one of the few opportunities to meet everybody. The atmosphere is about people who need to be together.”

Sign of the times

The decision to relocate this year proved a fruitful one, but it was clear that Beyond Beauty was suffering from the effects of the current economic difficulties. International visitor numbers were down 4% from last year to 28% and some exhibitors were left feeling very unsatisfied with the mix, including French mass market skin and body care brand Evoluderm. “There are not a lot of foreign visitors and for us this is a problem. We want to sell to other countries but these visitors just aren't here,” commented head of packaging, Nathalie Aiach.

But most exhibitors seemed happy with the mix, noting visitors from Belgium, Germany, Italy, the US, China and Australia. Daniel Joutard, founder of twice Beyond Beauty Award-winning brand Aïny said: “We have seen more people from Asia this year than at previous shows, including quite a lot of Japanese people.” And Lebanese spa brand Beesline Pro, who had chosen to exhibit at the show for the first time in search of European and North American distribution, was full of praise: “We're very pleased with the outcome of this exhibition,” said brand manager Tarek Penno. “People from all over the world have come to our stand and are interested in doing business with us. We came here because we had heard how good this exhibition is, and it has lived up to expectations.” Others felt that, while the exhibition did not always feel busy, the calibre of visitors was high. Jean Louis Pollentier, spa development manager for spa brand Sothys International said: “It has not been really busy but we have been in contact with two big players so that is enough for us.” Davide Bollanti, chairman of spa line Comfort Zone commented: “We have not gained that many contacts but the quality in general is high. We didn't have huge expectations but we have been pleased with the show. We are in a good position and there has been a good international attendance.”

On the exhibitor side total numbers were also disappointing, down by 100 compared with last year. Exhibitors generally mentioned that the show felt more compact and concentrated. Zoom was one of the areas impacted, as Bondi explained: “We have less of a Zoom focus this year simply because there are fewer launches. We prefer to be smaller but to keep to the niche concept – we don't want to destroy our product.” Aïny's Joutard added: “Fewer brands are showcased than last year but what is here is more interesting. I think the crisis has whittled out many of the not so interesting concepts.” Zoom may have been smaller but it retained its buzz of excitement on the show floor. It has a unique appeal as a platform for fresh concepts and as such has become an integral part of the show. Sébastien Magnin, founder and ceo of Cosmebio-certified organic fragrance brand Shantara, commented: “Everyone is interested in discovering what is new and Zoom makes it easier to do this.” It is also an accessible show for a fledgling company: “You can come here with a small product and not have a big stand or anything and you therefore save money and time,” added Magnin.

Attracting attention

Concepts at Zoom range from the quirky – such as the line of laundry care products by AhRt Cosmetics that claim to deliver slimming, moisturising, firming and refreshing properties to the skin, to the provocative – such as Love to Love, a vibrator (a surprise addition to the show).

Much of Zoom however was dominated by new organic and natural cosmetic brands. Shantara made its second appearance at Beyond Beauty, having launched its first fragrance Rêve Étoilé edp pour femme last year, but its first in the Zoom area. “The visibility is higher in Zoom,” noted Magnin: “We are hoping to develop our distribution internationally and we have made some good contacts.” This year Shantara launched a men's fragrance, Shaman edt, a fresh and earthy scent that is inspired by the rainforest. And a completely new skin care launch from the French Alps, Elevation, replaces the water normally found in a skin cream formula with an infusion from one of four high altitude plants, meadow sweet, mallow, alchemera and wild rose. “We found this was extremely good from an efficiency point of view,” said managing director Fabrice Croisé. Elevation is the first carbon compensated brand in the world to have measured every single amount of energy used, he claims. Trees are then planted to compensate for the energy they have used. “It is eco-invisibility. It is like saying, if you buy our product it is not an act of consumption.”

Cosmeeting saw plenty of newcomers – in fact 35% of the 190 exhibitors in this part of the show were at Beyond Beauty for the first time. Among them was Cowshed, situated in the Natural & Bio zone, a UK range of therapeutic products first formulated for use in the original Cowshed spa at Babington House in Somerset. Beyond Beauty was the brand's first European trade show. Jo Morrison, sales manager for the brand commented: “We have come here to look for distributors in Europe and we have had a fantastic time, we have had interest from some really key influential stores.” Cowshed was highlighting its most recently launched body care products, Baby Cow and Udderly Gorgeous, a maternity range.

Elsewhere in Natural & Bio area was Natuderm a German brand that has just launched in France. This ginkgo-based range is BDIH certified and includes a range of day creams, facial tonics, hair care and the latest addition to the line-up, bath salts.

Appealing to the senses

One particularly attractive stand in Cosmeeting was Sensation Chocolate Paris, a brand of cocoa-based face and body treatment products. Decorated in mocha and chocolate shades and with the captivating cocoa butter, palm oil and coconut oil scent of the brand's new massage candle burning, the stand was never short of visitors. Co-founder Salomon Melki explained: “There is an attraction to this brand because of the chocolate influence. Previously there was a trend for products with a gourmand appeal but for us it's more than a trend. We believe that cocoa is full of beauty potential – it is packed with antioxidants and there are many new products that we will be able to create with it. There is pleasure with the product, but also efficiency. If it was only about the fragrance it wouldn't interest us.” Having launched four years ago, the brand, which is available in beauty salons and spas, perfumeries and parapharmacies in France, has exhibited at Beyond Beauty for the past three. “It is easy for us to be here in Paris,” comments Melki. “We are far from our potential and so are glad of the contacts we have made at this show.”

So spa so good

Beyond Beauty's offering for the spa industry, reworked this year as the European Spa Exhibition, is going from strength to strength. Not only did it seem to be the most vibrant and busiest of the three shows, with visitors from hotel spas and big spa projects being particularly noted, but the presence of many heavyweight spa brands this year such as Carita (Shiseido), Cinq Mondes, Clarins, Comfort Zone, Decléor (Shiseido), Nuxe and Sothys has raised the profile of this event. But the success of the exhibition is to some degree at odds with the actual reality of the spa market at the moment. Charme d'Orient's Raouf Daoud-Brikki commented: “The spa market is growing fast but it has been a special year – all the projects that people have had with us for two years have been delayed. The spa market is feeling the crisis as much as anyone else in the beauty industry.”

Jean Louis Pollentier of Sothys International is not quite so negative about the situation: “We are performing more on market and compared to the competition, we are strong. If we compare ourselves to some industries we are a bit preserved. You can cut out some expenses but there are some treats, like a massage or a facial that you want to keep for yourself. We are recognised for the quality of our treatments and products, and I think the market recognises strong brands.” He notes that one of Sothys strengths may lie in the fact that it is not a marketing brand. “Those which are involved with department stores are really suffering,” he said.

And there was some positive news from other spa brands. Exclusive spa line Terraké (Thalgo Group) utilised the event to gather clients together for the opening of its new spa Ville Thalgo, located at the Trocadéro in Paris, on the third night of the show. Nuxe announced the opening of a new spa at the end of December in Hôtel le Strato in France's Courchevel 1850, while Cowshed announced the opening of a new spa in Berlin in February.

Creative flair

Dubbed “the locomotive of the show”, by David Bondi, Creative was a little more compact in size this year, down by 30 exhibitors. HCP was promoting its new Push and Pull Lipstick, a double-ended product that continues the trend of combination lipsticks. Various options include balm on one side and colour on the other, or colour/glitter combinations. And Megalash is a new patent pending hybrid application concept which combines plastic and nylon bristles for multiple lengthening, volumising and defining performance.

As far as visitors were concerned, unfortunately there was an element of confusion over the dates of the show – the European Spa Exhibition and Summit and Cosmeeting both began on Sunday 13 September, while the spa element closed on the Tuesday with Cosmeeting running on until the Wednesday. Creative, on the other hand ran from the Monday to Wednesday. This led to some visitors trying to access Creative on the Sunday and the spa exhibition on the Wednesday. HCP's UK managing director Jackie Mantle said: “It can be confusing for visitors to know when to come. Some visitors came in on Sunday wanting to look at packaging but everything was being set up. Packaging is included in the Creative trade show, but it would be better if the organisers made it clear that the packaging section started on the Monday – maybe by calling it CreatePack or something.”

Another unfortunate aspect was the timing of the show as it clashed with HBA in New York. This was explained as being due to the availability of the Porte Versailles. “I would have liked it to avoid conflicting with HBA,” said Bondi, “Next year it won't,” he assured. Beyond Beauty's 2010 show will run from 12-15 September and promises to offer even more. “We will develop our conference programmes more than ever before,” explained Bondi. “We will optimise the value of being situated in central Paris, as it is a key location for many people. More than ever before visitors will make a very careful choice of shows and return on investment.” Beyond Beauty's ability to move with the times has proved to be one of its strongest assets to date. And if this is its performance in a crisis, it's a fair bet that the show will continue to strengthen in the future.

Beauty Challenger Awards

Special Jury Prize: Absolution
Said to be the first unisex bespoke organic-certified cosmetics brand, Absolution is a range of eight customisable products which can be adapted to the skin's needs. Created from organic or wild vegetal extracts as well as minerals and vitamins, there are four skin care products and four La Solution + products, which serve as boosters offering benefits such as anti-ageing and radiance. The eco-conceived packaging uses recycled and/or recyclable plant inks.

Emerging Brands Prize: 66 30
66 30 is the angle of inclination of the Earth and this French organic-certified men's skin care brand is said to reflect this fact by being based on the principles of equilibrium – reconciling modern life with respect for nature. Launched at the beginning of the year, the line offers five multifunctional facial care products – Day Cycle 6in1 Ultra-moisturising Face Fluid, Night Cycle Face Regerating Anti ageing Complex, Radiance Cycle Organic Natural Glow Face Serum, Extreme Cycle Essential Organic Face Balm and Precision Cycle Organic 3in1 Eye Fluid.

Niche Brands Prize: Fleurs de Bach
Fleurs de Bach offers a range of products for the body and mind based on Bach flowers, which are said to impart a feeling of well-being. In January the brand will launch a new skin care line, Les Soins de Bach, claimed to be the first bio anti stress skin care products that use Bach flowers. Eight facial skin care products will be joined by four body products and a home fragrance. Annick Masseglia-Thireau, commercial director, commented: ' We are very proud to receive the prize. It helps us to find distributors, and it also helps us to become more well known – we don't advertise as we have small means.'

Beauty Organic Award: Aïny
Aïny also won the Special Jury Prize at last year's awards. Now distributed in France through Printemps, Beauty Monop, By Terry and Mademoiselle Bio, Ainy's appeal lies in its Ecocert certified skin care products for women which are based on Andean and Amazonian plants. Founder Daniel Joutard told ECM: ' One of the reasons why we won the award is that the textures meet the standards of non-organic textures. To be identified as a promising brand obviously highlights our company when there's a lot of competition about. It is also an opportunity to explain our philosophy. With real, true organic products it is a new kind of luxury, a rarity. You have to take time to grow a brand like this and we need to work with people who understand this. '

Crisis talks

A packed conference room listened to the results of the study, presented by Florence Soyer, head of the IFOP consumer division and Celine Dargent, ceo of marketing consulting firm HighCo DOCs, which found that 78% of polled consumers were worried about the crisis. While 54% say that their buying ability has diminished somewhat, 67% of those who have restricted their spending have chosen to cut back on cosmetics.
Regarding buying habits, 66% said that price is the governing factor when buying cosmetics, but for those aged 24-34 years this figure rises to 75%. Around 57% fully agree that they sacrifice quality when they buy on price. A total of 50% buy all their cosmetic products in the same shop or chain of shops and 45% regularly or often research a cosmetic product before buying it, although innovation appears to be sacrificed in times of crisis with 82% agreeing that innovations are too expensive.
One marketing effort that has gained its own rewards is the loyalty card. Reward schemes have become tremendously successful with 94% of consumers polled always using their cards when they shop.
So what are the consequences of the crisis for brands? According to the study, 79% completely or somewhat agree that buying a big national brand has become a luxury, although 51% do not agree that a big national brand is necessarily a sign of quality.

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