Navigating regulatory challenges: An interview with Ángela Guerra, an expert in private label cosmetic production safety

Published: 8-Jan-2025

Ángela Guerra, Head of Regulatory Affairs and Product Safety at Cosmewax, has over 15 years of experience managing international cosmetic regulations. A registered Eurotox toxicologist since 2017 and a member of SEQC's Scientific Committee, Ángela shares her insights on the evolving regulatory challenges in the cosmetic industry and the strategies that ensure product safety, compliance, and transparency in a fast-changing global market

1. Regulatory role in the cosmetics industry.

What role does the Regulatory Department play in developing and launching private label cosmetic products?

The Regulatory Department is the “silent guardian” in developing and launching cosmetic products, ensuring that they comply with current regulations from formulation to marketing. It validates formulas to verify the safety and compliance of ingredients, guarantees complete legal labels and prepares technical documents such as the PIF, essential for regulatory compliance. In the case of private label products, the Regulatory team plays an even more important role, as it must adapt products designed for various clients with specific requirements, ensuring that they comply with local regulations without compromising the viability of the business. This includes customising labels according to the demands of each client and aligning claims with what is permitted in each market. Regulatory not only protects legal compliance but also coordinates the
complexity of managing multiple brands under a common regulatory framework, allowing for efficient and successful launches.

2. Global regulatory compliance.

In such a globalised market, how does the Regulatory team ensure that products comply with the specific regulations of each region?

Compliance with regional regulations in a global environment involves more than just monitoring; it necessitates adapting to varied local requirements. Regulatory departments need to base their work on international standards while ensuring products meet stringent regulations, such as those in Europe. They must consider differences such as multilingual labeling and local restrictions on ingredients, including allergens.

For instance, a colorant allowed in European cosmetics might be banned in US lip products. This necessitates formula adjustments for each market. The Cosmetics Regulation department plays a crucial role in bridging global standards with local needs, ensuring products are compliant and competitive internationally.

3. Regulatory change management.

Regulations are constantly changing. How does Cosmewax stay up to date with these changes and how does this impact development processes?

The world of cosmetic regulations is constantly advancing, and keeping up to date is a challenge that the Regulatory area must face with active technological vigilance. This process includes attending international conferences or collaborating with associations, which allows anticipating changes before they come into force. Through this work, not only are future trends identified, such as restrictions on key ingredients, but a proactive strategy is also designed. This includes working with flexible margins in formulas and optimising stock management to minimise operational impacts.

4. Transparency and product safety.

Consumers are increasingly looking for transparency about ingredients and processes. How do you work to ensure product safety and clarity for your customers and end consumers?

From the regulatory department, we ensure that each product not only complies with the applicable regulations but also respects key principles such as honesty, truthfulness and support with evidence. This implies that all statements, images or presentations on the products are supported by verifiable data, avoiding exaggerations or misleading claims.

5. Challenges in the regulatory field.

What are the biggest challenges facing the Regulatory department in the cosmetics industry today and how are you addressing them as a company?

Regulatory affairs are facing an increasingly demanding environment, marked by constant regulatory evolution. In Europe, issues such as the evaluation of ingredients by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) that could lead to restrictions or bans, for endocrine disruptors, as well as the implementation of omnibus regulations with very tight deadlines, stand out. In addition, the regulation of PFHxA, microplastics and some silicones, due to their environmental impact, requires reformulating products and seeking sustainable alternatives, which directly affects the textures and efficacy of formulas.

These changes not only require anticipation to prevent new regulations from affecting material stocks but also close collaboration with suppliers to ensure up-to-date information and compliance with requirements. The regulatory department must act quickly to implement these regulations without compromising operational efficiency or consumer confidence.

In short, the Cosmetics Regulation area is the cog that keeps everything running, anticipating challenges and ensuring that the cosmetics industry can move forward with confidence, even in an increasingly demanding regulatory landscape.

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