Cold weather is the main culprit for drying out the skin, causing flaking, soreness and irritation – hardly the best canvas for a fresh glossy manicure. Antibacterial alcohol based gels and liquid soaps are also guilty of severely drying out the hands and nails by stripping their natural oils. In order to combat this, everyone should have two products in their hand and nail toolkit: a rich, moisturising hand cream to soften and condition, and a nourishing cuticle oil to feed the root of the nail and keep the surrounding area healthy. Lynn Gray, creative director at Mavala, advises that you should apply your hand cream at night for best results: “The best time is at night as it gives the cream a chance to work while you sleep. Wearing light cotton gloves helps to seal in the moisturising properties for extra benefits.” This isn't to say that hand cream shouldn't be applied throughout the day as well; in fact, applying a blob even when hands don't feel dry is the best prevention of dryness and discomfort. Gray highlights the top ingredients to look out for in hand creams as hyaluronic acid, collagen and allatoin, which all moisturise deeply, regenerate and rejuvenate the skin. Karen J Gerrard, founder of specialist protecting hand cream SEAMS, says that spending just half a minute massaging in hand cream can make all the difference: “When massaging, pay particular care and attention to the knuckles as the bone is often the driest part of our hands. The cuticles are another problem area as when they crack they can cause split, dry nails,” she says.
Cuticle oil is definitely worth the purchase to pay special attention to the area. Usually available in small bottles and pens, it's perfect for keeping in handbags and on the desk at the office to replenish moisture and strengthen the cuticles, which can stop them from splitting and becoming painful.
There are some other daily maintenance tips you can offer to customers; simply ensuring hands are covered by soft gloves in cold weather and using washing up gloves when doing housework will shield the delicate skin from aggressors, while also giving a manicure the best chance of staying glossy and chip-free for longer. For a bit of extra TLC, customers can treat hands and nails to a salon-style DIY treatment from the comfort of their own home. First, massaging in a nourishing exfoliating scrub before rinsing it away thoroughly will remove dry and dead skin, clean the nail plate and help the skin absorb further products. Gray likes to mix sea salt and coconut oil together for an effective kitchen cupboard alternative. She advises: “Make sure you scrub around the cuticles as well to help remove any dry, ragged skin and stimulate the blood supply, bringing oxygen and nutrients to the area.”
Next, tackle nail issues with targeted professional-standard targeted solutions. OPI Educator Bryony Cocksedge recommends using a ridge filler prior to nail lacquer application, to smooth out deep ridges in the nail plate. For staining caused by bright or dark polishes, an effervescent whitening solution containing magnesium can help, and a base coat should always be applied to form a barrier between coloured polish and the nail plate: “These products brighten the appearance of natural nails. Buffing over the nail plate with gentle but strong buffer can also help,” she says.
To help prevent weak nails from splitting, Gray prescribes a hardening treatment with moisturising properties to restore health in the nail plate and seal any flaking. To fix annoying broken nails, she suggests: “Use a base coat and apply across the break, then apply a piece of tea bag gauze followed by a top coat to help hold together the nail plate.” She also emphasises the importance of filing properly: “Remember to only file nails from the outer edges to the middle, as filing back and forth will cause delicate nails to break. Always use softer emery boards and never metal files – they're aggressive and can also cause breakage,” she says.
Brand Guide
OPI Avoplex Nail & Cuticle Replenishing Oil
pays special
attention
to the cuticles and nail bed, moisturising and nourishing with OPI's
exclusive Avocado Lipid Complex. A few drops massaged in twice a day
softens the cuticles and locks in essential moisture for healthy nails.
RRP £16.50, Coty, opiuk.com.
is a fast absorbing, non-greasy,
super-moisturising hand cream. Originally created for busy nurses in
need of a serious multi-purpose moisturiser, the fast acting natural
formula soothes and repairs tired skin. RRP £5.49, Yes! Nurse,
yesnurse.co.uk.
tackles two manicure issues in one: the formula
with cotton oil and vitamin E smoothes and softens dry cuticles while
also leaving freshly painted nails touch dry within seconds. Apply
after topcoat. RRP £11.85, Mavala, mavala.co.uk.
smoothes over
ridges in the nail surface for a more even polish finish, and also acts
as a traditional base coat to improve colour depth, help prevent
staining and increase the longevity of a manicure. It contains jojoba,
vitamin E and keratin to nourish and strengthen nails. RRP £2.99, LF
Beauty, collectioncosmetics.co.uk.