For better, for worse - in-cosmetics 2009 preview

Published: 20-Apr-2009

Following a difficult year for the industry, 2009 sees in-cosmetics head to Munich (New Munich Trade Fair Centre, 21-23 April).

Following a difficult year for the industry, 2009 sees in-cosmetics head to Munich (New Munich Trade Fair Centre, 21-23 April). SPC discovers what delegates can expect to discover at this year's show. Don't forget to visit us on stand J540


At in-cosmetics 2008 Aromtech expanded its ArctiCare line, which comprises extracts from plants characteristic of the arctic region. This year the company will publish the results of several new efficacy studies involving the line including trials to find the anti-ageing efficacy of Shajio sea buckthorn oils, the antioxidative properties of Shajifen sea buckthorn phenols and the anti-elastase activity of Sun Essence HG cloudberry extract.


At the 2009 event Berg + Schmidt is promising to deliver emollients and emulsifiers that meet the highest German quality standards at competitive prices.

The company will be presenting its new range of glycerol esters with different percentages of monoglycerides. The range includes a 90% product and a self-emulsifying variant and will be marketed under the brand name BergaBest.


French company BiotechMarine has announced that it will launch its new ingredient, Sea Satin, at the show. Designed for use in hair care products, the active is preservative-free and is claimed to have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-ageing properties as well as acting as a free radical scavenger.


Ciba’s focus this year will be on colour. The company is planning to launch Vibracolor anionic (acid) hair dyes, which are designed for use in temporary applications and allow for the creation of very strong fashion shades including fluorescent ones. It is also expanding its Calisha colour collection with the introduction of six new effect pigments, which are available as water as well as oil dispersible grades.

In addition, Ciba is extending its range of stabilisers with Tinogard LO1, a new antioxidant based on lactone chemistry said to prevent the deterioration of ingredients sensitive to oxidation, and Tinogard QS Excited State Quencher, a powder version of its existing liquid product, which boasts better compatibility with oil-based formulations than the original.


Cognis and LS will once again focus on nature with the second wave of the group’s Green Chemical Solutions classification system. Supporting this, Cognis and LS will present a range of products based on natural ingredients including a consistency wax, an anionic o/w emulsifier, the first green pearlising wax dispersion, surfactants from plant derived raw materials and a performance wax dispersion that conditions via micronised lipids.

New offerings showcased at the event will include an emulsifier that is said to be ideal for use in sun care formulations, a transparent microemulsion, a pure synthetic tetrapeptide and a variety of polymers.


Corum was established in 1995 and is now one of the largest raw material product and service providers in Taiwan. Its latest products include a range of peptides and a line of acylglutamates.


Hamburg’s Cremer Care, which supplies natural raw materials to the cosmetics industry, is launching Cremerlin. The new ingredient is described as a purely vegetable alternative to petrolatum.


Croda has stated that a primary focus for the 2009 show will be lip technology and the group will deliver a presentation on the subject at this year’s in-focus, as well as publishing Croda’s Kiss Technology Guide, to assist the colour cosmetic formulator in selecting the correct ingredients for their product.

Croda is also launching SolPerForm 100, a polymer designed to improve the film forming properties of sunscreen emulsions when spread onto skin. According to Croda, this means that the high SPF levels demanded by the sun care market can be achieved much more easily and without any negative impact on skin feel.


Desert Whale has renewed both its QAI (NOP) organic certification and EU Certification (EEC 2092/91) for its organic jojoba oils and meal, sunflower oil, rose hip oil, sesame oil and shea butter. In addition, the company will be displaying several products, such as its latest offering, Jojoba Illuminate, which has also received Ecocert authorisation.


When silicones are formulated with naturally derived ingredients like soy wax the result can showcase the best properties of both materials. Dow Corning is therefore introducing new silicone organic elastomer blends. The company is inviting visitors at in-cosmetics 2009 to come and feel how built-in organic compatibility makes it easy to create products with a unique powdery texture.

Also on display will be SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax, sun protection solutions, hair protection solutions, and HY-3035 Soy Wax and HY-3051 Soy Wax Blend.


Dr Straetmans is launching a new product line, Dermorganics. The first members of this product family include Symbio muls GC, an emulsifier blend that contains only Ecocert listed materials and imparts basic preservation, and a new polar oil component, Dermofeel sensolv, which has a non-greasy skin feel and is described as an excellent solvent for colour cosmetics and sun care products.


Eco Oil Argentina will introduce its latest product, Ecobeads, at in-cosmetics 2009. The hard free flowing microspheres are derived from jojoba oil and are cited as an alternative to polyethylene beads and nutshell exfoliants in applications such as shower gels and body polishers, and facial or foot scrubs. Ecobeads come in a variety of colours and sizes and range from 150 to 600 microns.


Ennagram and its sister company Activalg intend to showcase eight recently launched products and product ranges at the expo: three under its vegetal extracts umbrella and five marine ingredients.

Exelsior is a range of 100% organic vegetal extracts that are prepared from organic plants using water and organic glycerine while apple cider vinegar extract imparts hair shine and babassu butter, which is made from the seeds of Brazil’s babassu palm trees, is said to melt upon contact with the skin.

New to the company’s marine extracts portfolio are Ennapeptide M, designed to boost skin vitality, and Collagenna H, a solution of pure hydrolysed collagen derived from fish skins. Also on display will be caviar extract, a range of marine wraps for the spa market and Ennacomplex 274, made of six seaweed extracts and claimed to impart toning and fortifying elements.


Evonik is using this year’s show to introduce two new products. Abil Care XL 80 is a new silicone-based emulsifier for skin care applications claimed to provide an outstanding combination of stabilisation performance and sensory benefits, while Abil T Quat 60 is a silicone-based conditioning agent which imparts hair fibre protection technologies.


The world’s leading manufacturer of sugarbeet molasses-derived betaine, chemically known as trimethylglycine, Finnish company Finnfeeds is publishing a study carried out by Derma Consult comparing betaine to glycerine, which found both betaine and betaine and glycerol mixed to deliver high levels of skin moisturisation.

According to the company, the ingredient is ideal for use in skin care, hair care and oral care products.


Organic ingredients and actives specialist Greentech will introduce Organic Epica, an anti-ageing active derived from pine bark and blackcurrant leaves.

It also intends to present a recently launched ingredient for the treatment of fat storage. Timiline acts on several pathways decreasing lipogenesis by the inhibition of lipoprotein lipase activity, activating the adipose triglyceride lipase responsible for lipolysis, promoting the transport of these free fatty acids from the adipocytes towards peripheral tissues to be used as an energy source and inhibiting the differentiation of pre-adipocytes in adipocytes.


Natural and organic formulators will now be able to take advantage of IBR’s anti-ageing actives. The Israeli company will be showcasing its recently launched organic certified IBR-Dormin, an anti-ageing aqueous extract from dormant narcissus bulbs. Also on display will be IBR-Snowflake, which is described as a botox-substitute and extracted from summer snowflake bulbs.


Impag will promote its Impaderm line of co-surfactants, which are said to be especially suitable for use in mild skin and hair cleansing systems. Impaderm is a combination of two anionic surfactant groups as well as amphoteric elements of the amphoacetate classes and a betaine surfactant derived from natural triglycerides.

Impag will draw particular attention to the three ingredients in the range that are Ecocert certified for use in natural cosmetics: Impaderm G 25 MDC-N, Impaderm Olive and Impaderm Karité.


Ethnobotany, the study of traditional usages of medical plants, looks set to be the buzzword at Indena’s stand. Its Ximilene microcirculation active is used to shape African traditional masks while Zanthalene, designed for sensitive skins, comes from a Chinese plant that is used as a treatment for gastrointestinal pain.


New from Innospec is Pureact SLMI-85, a surfactant that will be launched at in-cosmetics 2009. Said to be ideal for use in sulfate-free systems, Pureact SLMI-85 is an isethionate ester that is extremely mild and can be used as either a primary or secondary surfactant. Its flash foam is deemed similar to that of sodium laureth sulfate boasting tight, thick, persistent bubbles.


The show will present US-based company Inolex with the opportunity to publicise its expanded line of biostatic systems. Lexgard OE 90 and Lexgard NAP are both preservative-free blends that contain multifunctional bacteriostatic ingredients and are said to impart great skin feel to finished products and boast broad pH tolerance.

Spectrastat E and Spectrastat G, the latest additions to Inolex’s CHA-based optimised systems, will also be on display. These liquid systems are made with methylpropanediol and are preservative and glycol-free.

Finally, Phenostat is a paraben-free system ideal for cost sensitive formulations.


Interpolymer is using the 2009 expo as a launch pad for its Syntran PC 5500 (polyquaternium-91 (&) polyacrylate-15). The new cationic film forming polymer

is based on Interpolymer’s olefin-graft technology designed to impart a silky smooth skin feel. The company says that Syntran PC 5500 is substantive on the skin, flexible and will not crack, flake or feel tight.

In addition, Interpolymer is to introduce its new range of paraben-free polymers including: Syntran PC 5227-CG, an SPF booster; skin tightening agent Syntran PC 5100-CG; and Syntran PC 5205-CG, a hair colour protection additive.


Kalichem Italia will be promoting Flyblok, a natural alternative to chemical treatments for protection against mosquitoes and other insects, suitable for use in organic formulations. According to Kalichem, test subjects using Flyblok received almost no insect bites.


The new product on offer from Japanese company Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo, exhibiting with its European subsidiary?Estenity, is said to be an alternative to petroleum-derived butylene glycol, suitable for use in organic formulations. Haisugarcane BG is an odourless and colourless butylene glycol 1.3 derived from sugar cane. It provides protection against dehydration, decreases the viscosity and contributes to the solubilisation of ingredients, and prevents cosmetics from microbial contaminations.

Alongside Haisugarcane BG, the company will be launching two new polymers. Hailucent ISDA is designed for use in lip gloss formulations while Risocast HSDA can be used to create lipsticks and hair care products.


Mibelle Biochemistry has collaborated with an expert in Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) to develop a protective and soothing ingredient called EpiCalmin TCM. The active, which is claimed to reinforce the skin’s natural defence system, comprises the flowers, fruits and roots of three selected herbs used in TCM and will be launched at the 2009 event. EpiCalmin TCM works by reducing the degradation of the skin’s extra-cellular matrix and by reducing skin irritation and increasing its hydration. It is also Ecocert approved.

In addition, Mibelle will be presenting new studies using its stem cell active PhytoCellTech Malus Domestica. Research carried out using progenitor cell targeting technology to isolate epidermal stem cells found PhytoCellTec Malus Domestica to improve the vitality of epidermal stem cells. Mibelle calls the active a promise for real skin rejuvenation.


New Zealanders Philip Simms and Owen Dexter claim to have developed the world’s first hypoallergenic, prestige grade lavender oil and now their company NZLavender is ready to supply the oil worldwide. The lavender oil, which took three years to develop, is said to contain the lowest level of the allergen linalool of any L. angustifolia lavender oil commercially available in the world.


Advanced delivery technology presents formulators with new opportunities and Israeli specialist Power Paper will be displaying its Active Patches at in-cosmetics 2009. The patches can replace chemical enhancers and allow the quantity of actives to be reduced. They boast low variability and the ability to deliver lipid soluble and water soluble actives simultaneously. The frequency and duration of treatment can also be condensed. Two kinds of patch are available: hydrogel patches, which create an optimal interface between the delivery electrode and the skin, and non-woven patches, which serve as a dry platform.


German company ProDERM is offering a non-invasive method of measuring the penetration of topically applied test products, confocal Raman spectroscopy. The method allows for in vivo measurements of epidermal water and NMF content as well as the in vivo measurement of molecule penetration into the skin.


Launching at in-cosmetics 2009 will be Celligent, the new active for cell and DNA protection from Rahn. The ingredient is made up of three active principals: natural antioxidant ethyl ferulate; carnosolic acid, which combats free radicals; and uridine monophosphate, which supports the repair of DNA in the cell.

According to Rahn, Celligent is preservative-free and is ideal for use in anti-ageing concepts, skin care products for sun protection and after sun products.


South Korean company Regeron is following the introduction of its cosmetic human growth hormone by launching several new cosmetic protein ingredients to coincide with in-cosmetics 2009. Prolactin and placental lactogen are among the new ingredients said to stimulate the skin’s epidermal basal layers and stem cells.


It has been a busy year for Res Pharma. The company celebrated 30 years of business and opened a laboratory for the study of applied cell biology. Now it is launching Resassol VPF in Munich. Resassol VPF is a PEG-free solubiliser that stays in a clear liquid form even at low temperatures. It does not need to be heated and homogenised before use and has a wide spectrum of action with essential oils and perfumes.


Sederma plans to launch an anti-ageing skin active based on chromophore mapping. The appearance of normal human skin, says Sederma, is determined by the concentration and distribution of melanin, haemoglobin and collagen and there is a strong difference in the concentration and homogeneity of these chromophores in young and aged skin. The new ingredient, Chromocare, targets each chromophore to give skin a fresher, younger appearance.

Volulip, a recently launched product designed to stimulate hyaluronic acid for a 15% increase in lip volume, will also be marketed at in-cosmetics 2009.


Sisterna will introduce several concept formulations to demonstrate the versatility of its sucrose esters. Based on sucrose and vegetable fatty acids, these emulsifiers are both natural and edible allowing for novel ideas like edible creams or lotions. Other concepts will include wipe and spray applications, cleansing products and colour cosmetics.


Camaderm GLY is the name of the latest offering from Solabia. A vegetal juice of black crowberries, Empetrum nigrum, Camaderm GLY is said to have an anti-ageing effect on the body by inhibiting free radicals, regulating the extracellular matrix to minimise stretchmarks, increasing tone, increasing microcirculation and imparting anti-elastase activity.


Celebrating its tenth anniversary this year, Australian plant-derived ingredients specialist Southern Cross Botanicals is unveiling three new skin nutritionals created using Aboriginal super fruits (pictured right).

WildPlum Harvest contains kakadu plum, the world’s richest source of vitamin C, while WildLime Harvest contains caviar lime and has exfoliation, rejuvenation and cleansing properties. Finally, Southern Cross is launching WildBerry Harvest. This complex of bioactive wild berries features the polyphenol-rich lilly pilly.


Peel-off mask specialist Technature is inviting brands to create their own cocktail masks at its stand. Powder and water are mixed in the shaker cocktail to create an instant mask that is of natural origin and preservative-free.

It has also developed four textures to try: Moussy, with standard references of strawberry, lemon & lime and caviar; Creamy, with standard references of cherry and chocolate; Cristally, a transparent mask with standard references of gold and almond & honey; and Peel-off, with standard references of fig & orange and argan & ghassoul.


This year Uniproma is expanding its range of Stable VC skin lighteners. Its new addition, sodium ascorbyl phosphate (U-SAP), works in synergistic combination with UV filters, enhancing skin, stimulating collagen synthesis and scavenging free radicals.


Zschimmer & Schwarz creates functional ingredients based on amino acids, which are designed to impart multifunctional benefits including moisturisation, body odour control, emulsification and emolliency.


While economic crises come and go, human vanity endures and for the personal care industry it is more crucial now than ever to come together, network and gain updates on the latest product innovations and supply chain developments. Reed Exhibitions has obviously taken note as in-cosmetics 2009 promises to be 20% larger than last year.

“The show’s core objective is to help the cosmetics industry manage the economic downturn creatively, smartly and strategically,” says exhibition director Lucy Gillam.

in-cosmetics 2009 therefore features a programme designed to help prepare industry professionals for any future recessionary obstacles they may face. Highlights include:

l in-focus 3D which will cast light on the parallels between the worlds of beauty and architecture revealing new 3D techniques to explore the skin as an architectural concept.

l The Innovation Zone, which will be double the size of last year’s, offers visitors the opportunity to discover the most innovative products on the market today as chosen by Mintel Beauty Innovation.

l Two Natural & Organic Cosmetic Ingredients Workshops to be run on 20 and 22 April. The first will navigate the maze of natural and organic standards while the second will provide solutions to common challenges in developing natural and organic products.

l The Cosmetic Science Conference bringing 24 leading experts together to provide delegates with updates on new technologies and formulations.

l Marketing Trends Presentations highlighting the key trends making the industry tick.

l Finally, over 40 Innovation Seminars will be presented by leading suppliers.

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