Colour cosmetics – come back brighter

Colour cosmetics are benefiting from the downturn by becoming the consumer’s conspicuous purchase of choice, but are manufacturers doing enough to take advantage of this lifeline? Emma Reinhold reports

Encouraged by a rally in consumer interest, the colour cosmetics market has enjoyed a revival in fortunes. According to estimated figures by Euromonitor International, the global colour cosmetics market made a healthy recovery in 2009 and again in 2010 following disappointing sales in 2008.

Global sales reached US$42.6bn in 2009, up 3% on 2008, and if Euromonitor’s estimated figures for 2009/2010 are to be considered this growth is an upward trend.

“Colour is one of the most resilient sectors in cosmetics,” explains Ian Marshall, UK & European md, Benefit. “There is a continued desire by most women to look their best and for a lot of women make-up is one thing that is still affordable to them.”

Indeed, David Walker Smith, head of beauty at UK department store Selfridges believes the tail end of the recession has actually had a positive impact on make-up sales at the store.

“The recession has seen colour cosmetics rise dramatically,” he tells SPC. “We have seen that if a customer cannot afford their usual fashion fix they look for the beauty equivalent in a lipstick or nail polish to liven up a dress they already own. This need for a quick beauty fix continues to be strong as customers find the need to update their look on a lower budget.”

“Colour cosmetics are seen as an affordable pick me up during tough times,” adds Grace Fodor, ceo and president, Jemma Kidd Make-up. “It’s easy to buy into a touch of colour.”

However, growth is still very much tentative and as consumer spending remains hesitant, talk of a full-blown recovery may still be a little premature. “Women are buying but not in the same volume as a few years ago. Today they are spending on one or two make-up items at a time rather than three or four,” explains Gail Bojarski, general manager, UK & Europe, Benefit. “The next 12 months in the UK especially are going to be very tough and consumers will continue to analyse what they spend their money on.”

Many brands have adopted promotional offers on colour lines to encourage consumer spending but Marshall warns that this could damage the industry in the longer term.

“Promotional activity is very apparent in the recession – every time you pick up a magazine it is clear that there is a huge amount of promotional activity in the cosmetics market,” he explains. “But the problem is the more promotional things you do, the more you will have to do in future – the consumer expects it.”

There is also little evidence that promotions encourage consumers to change their existing spending routine. “Most people have stuck with what they like,” says Vivienne Rudd, senior beauty analyst, Mintel. And in terms of the recession encouraging consumers to trade down from premium to mass products, the analyst believes there is very little change. It says only one in ten traded down across the spectrum.

But of the new launches to make it on to shelves in the last 12 months, the take-up has been positive. Recession busting sales were seen for Burberry, which launched its first cosmetics line, Burberry Beauty. In mass, many of the products in Topshop’s hotly anticipated colour line, which debuted in 2010, sold out within weeks. Accessories retailer Accessorize also made a move into colour, launching five themed colour lines, designed to create different looks, and budget clothing chain Peacocks debuted budget colour with Evie Glam.

Adding a philanthropic edge, George Hammer launched All For Eve, a brand including colour that donates all net profits The Eve Appeal gynecological charity.

Launching a new brand in a recession may be tough but there are success stories. Ilamasqua has enjoyed growing success since its 2008 launch and recently opened its first flagship boutique in London, offering both products and a number of different make-up courses.

The brand says its creative difference is the key and is a factor Coty will be surely be considering having won the license for Calvin Klein’s cosmetic business. The beauty giant secured the license from Markwins Holding and plans to develop and market a full line of make-up, due to launch in 2012.

Base notes

Facial make-up, and in particular, foundation, has benefited from the influence of areas such as naturals and skin care over the last 12 months. Brands have traded on the added value element of these influences to create multi-tasking products that promise not only to provide sophisticated coverage but to treat and protect the skin. Claims range from anti-ageing and anti-redness to skin brightening benefits. The number of primers boasting skin care benefits has also grown and provides an easy crossover from skin care to colour for many brands.

“Foundations have continued to see strong growth, reinforcing the theory that during this recessionary time consumers become more conscious of impacting things within their control – in this case looking good,” explains Charlotte Reedtz-Grierson, marketing director, Clinique. “The growth in the foundation category is excellent news as foundation represents an important bridge between skin care and make-up and has high consumer loyalty.”

Fodor describes the category as ‘skinmetics’. “I think this kind of product will become the standard. The colour gives you the instant effect but the skin care element gives you long-term skin benefits. Now we are seeing how we can bring the two together,” she explains.

“An improvement in formulations and marketing has given foundations a boost,” adds Rudd. “Moisturising ingredients in foundations came top of consumer wants and manufacturers have responded.”

Chanel’s Vitalumiere Aqua Skin Perfecting Make-up for instance contains hyaluronic acid to hydrate, while Guerlain’s recently launched Lingerie de Peau Invisible Skin-fusion Foundation promises to create a lightweight, long lasting and moisturising second skin that provides translucent coverage. Polymers taken from silk and linen fibres help create a micro-mesh on the skin which follow the contours of the face and give the foundation extra staying power, according to the brand.

More specific skin care concerns have also been addressed. Clinique extended its Redness Solutions colour line with three new products. Redness Solutions Make-up SPF15 is described as a liquid make-up with treatment benefits which help calm and soothe skin while treating and concealing redness. The formula contains probiotic technology, to help improve the skin’s barrier strength, along with Magnolia grandiflora bark extract, mushroom extract, caffeine and murumuru butter.

Instant Relief Mineral Pressed Powder meanwhile provides a portable alternative to the brand’s existing loose powder product, and helps neutralise the look of redness, while Redness Solutions Corrector, a concealer, helps disguise red blotches whilst soothing skin.

Lancôme meanwhile has taken a two-pronged approach, addressing both problem pigmentation and dull skin with its new foundation Teint Miracle. Alongside Aura-Inside Technology, which helps create the appearance of an inner glow and works by reflecting and re-emitting light pigments, the formula contains rose extract which helps minimise pigmentation and age spots, while the SPF15 provides protection against damaging UV rays.

Both Christian Dior and Le Métier de Beauté have focused on skin ageing. Dior’s Capture Totale High Definition Serum Foundation contains centuline and an Alpha-Longoza complex which help reduce the appearance of lines and wrinkles, smoothing and firming skin, while HD liquid crystal pigments help create high definition coverage.

Interestingly Le Métier de Beauté has used skin care language in the name of its new foundation line. Peau Vierge Anti-Ageing Collection comprises Peau Vierge Anti-Ageing, a tinted treatment fluid, and Peau Vierge Correcteur, a concealer. Both products feature a unique delivery system, Syntoc Actif, which is said to deliver a patented mixture of tocopheryl phosphates, a derivative of vitamin E, which is said to smooth and plump wrinkles from within the skin, as well as reducing age spots and acne.

And Maybelline launched Instant Age Rewind Eraser, described as the brand’s first anti-ageing foundation. It combines a collagen rich formula to help improve skin elasticity with a patented Micro-Corrector Applicator said to smooth imperfections on the skin’s surface.

Anti-ageing claims are popular and in foundation have been standard for a while but the trend is moving into other make-up areas such as eyes and cheeks, says Rudd.

Niche brand By Terry’s latest colour launch Terrybly contains a line of blushers as well as the more traditional treatment base. The blush is said to boost skin volume around the cheek area by stimulating adipocyte skin cells, lifting and plumping skin. Fibroblasts also stimulate collagen production to help prevent premature ageing.

And Clarins’ Rouge Hydra Nude Cream Lipstick contains 25% moisturising ingredients, a record breaking amount, according to the French brand.

The level of skin care claims will increase predicts Rudd: “Skin care claims within anti-glycation is an area to watch. We will start to see some impressive skin care claims in high-end cosmetics.”

The natural and organic movement has also influenced foundation development. Bourjois’ Bio Détox Organic range has been certified organic by Ecocert and features a liquid foundation containing 98.8% ingredients from natural origin and 21.9% from organic farming. These include organic chlorophyll, said to help purify the skin by encouraging oxygen to enter the skin and filter out pollution and free radicals.

Organic ingredients also feature heavily in make-up artist Kirsten Weis’ debut colour collection, Kjaer Weis. The range is said to be 95% organic and has been certified by Italian certifying body CCPB. Packaging for the brand is also refillable, adding to the eco message.

Mineral make-up however, which has traditionally been associated with the natural end of the make-up spectrum, has seen a slowdown in launch activity, following a few years of fervent launches.

“Mineral make-up has reached a plateau,” says Rudd. “There was a flurry of interest and a lot of brands launched me-too products but many mainstream brands have decided to leave it to the experts and will just keep some of their portfolio on.”

“Mineral make-up is conceptually strong as an idea but it’s polarised companies in the last five years,” adds Marshall. “Lots of companies jumped on the bandwagon and the message became a little muddied.”

According to Mintel, mineral make-up is only used by a quarter of consumers in the UK, France and Spain, and in Germany usage is almost non-existent.

But Walker Smith believes the mineral movement is still very popular, particularly for foundations: “Mineral foundation continues to perform very well in our stores. Bare Minerals is in our top three foundation sellers.” The brand has diversified its foundation offer, adding a matte variant to its range. The new product contains a RareMinerals ActiveSoil Complex, said to minimise the appearance of pores and improve skin clarity with improved use.

Lip service

Lipsticks have continued to enjoy a resurgence in popularity fuelled by increased magazine editorial and a number of high profile launches. The change in consumer purchasing patterns from overt consumption to a more austere buying attitude due to the recession has also seen a trend in more discretional luxury purchases such as lipsticks.

“Lips are a key item in a woman’s handbags – a woman can change her look by changing her lip colour,” says Rudd. “Lip colour is so portable and offers a quick colour touch-up. Usage is also very high – lip colour is reapplied throughout the day, whereas face colour for instance is mostly a once a day application.”

Recent launches from Dior (Rouge Dior), YSL Beauté’s Rouge Pur Couture and Clarins’ Rouge Prodige have all upped the ante in the luxury stakes, while Tom Ford’s Private Blend Lip Color Collection added a splash of cool glamour. However with an eye popping £35 price tag for each of the 12 shades, this is a lip colour that is at the top end of luxury.

Esteé Lauder has also used the revival in lipsticks as an opportunity to revamp its Pure Color Lipstick line which has been reworked in partnership with creative make-up director Tom Pecheux. The new range is said to offer a lightweight texture, intense pigment and a moisturising formula.

“Lips will continue to be a big trend with launches of glosses, tints and high shine lipsticks,” adds Walker Smith.

Tints have been particularly popular. Max Factor introduced LipFinity Lip Tint, a tinted pen described as an alternative to traditional lipstick and promising to provide non-transferable buildable trans-matt colour. And Maybelline introduced Color Sensational Lipstain, a sheer colour wash containing water-based pigments and housed in a similar pen format.

Growth getters

Thanks to a particularly innovative few years of product development in the mascara sector, eye make-up has seen strong gains.

“Within the eye category both brows and lashes continue to be important players in the market,” says Reedtz-Grierson.

Playing on the popularity of lash enhancing products, many brands have launched mascaras with similar lash boosting promises. Lancôme’s Hypnôse Precious Cells mascara contains a plant cell extract which is claimed to help regenerate lash condition, leaving lashes feeling stronger as well as looking denser and fuller.

And bareMinerals has launched Flawless Definition Volumizing Mascara containing a NutriPlump formula, a blend of amino acids and natural extracts, said to help fortify and pamper lashes, leaving them fuller, bolder and glossier.

In the mass market, Revlon launched Grow Luscious by Fabulash, described as a multi-benefit mascara and lash enhancer that creates instantly longer and fuller lashes, whilst helping them to grow stronger with each use. And Rimmel London has introduced Lash Accelerator, which promises to leave lashes 117% longer after 30 days’ use by strengthening and renewing lashes.

This year Dior will create a new category in mascara with the launch of Diorshow 360 Mascara, billed as the first ever rotating mascara product. It differs from the vibrating mascaras already on the market by providing automated 360° brush rotation, as well as zigzag, straight and spiral movements to create complete lash coverage.

Nail products have also seen a surge in popularity. “Nails are where the interest is - it’s the most fun category,” says Rudd. “It’s a quick and easy purchase and because colour is becoming so important, nail colours are becoming a bit of a must have.”

The nail market is very diverse, ranging from purse friendly solutions in the mass market to month-long waiting lists at Chanel for its latest cult seasonal shade.

Alongside ever more vibrant colours, textured effects have stood out as a new innovation. Matte and velvet effects are now commonplace and OPI has even introduced an animal pattern effect variant; ShatterBlack Top Coat dries to create a cracked print effect on nails.

The colour cosmetics market’s versatility and willingness to adapt to new challenges has certainly helped it through tough recessionary times. The outlook is optimistic but brands will need to continue to innovate, particularly as the recession receeds, in order to hold consumer attention.