The natural order
in-cosmetics Asia’s Imagine special feature area will focus on natural beauty this year. Project manager, Jacques Sebag outlines its aims
in-cosmetics Asia’s Imagine special feature area will focus on natural beauty this year. Project manager, Jacques Sebag outlines its aims
?Now in its second year at in-cosmetics Asia, Imagine is a platform that showcases the latest technologies, novel ingredients and formulation know-how designed to boost product development. Ten companies will be highlighting the latest in natural formulation at Imagine, including new actives derived from plants and new functional ingredients to improve the performance and feel of formulations.
New challenges
Studies show that the natural and organic sector accounts for up to 12% of the personal care market and is currently enjoying double-digit growth in most western countries. Yet its growth potential is even greater. Close to 50% of consumers state a preference for green products. Moreover, from a broader perspective, climate change is spawning new green regulations everywhere, thus inducing structural changes in our societies and boosting the shift towards greener products.
The green wave really started with safety and environmental issues but many cosmetic brands have built their communication on a ‘no’ basis such as no parabens, no phthalates, no animal testing and no mineral oil. However, when consumers buy a product, it is usually for a purpose such as reducing wrinkles, moisturising the skin or protecting it from UV rays. And while it has long been suspected that cosmetics are mostly about ‘marketing’, consumers expect products that deliver. In recent years, breakthroughs in skin science and product formulation have clearly raised the expectation levels and greater performance levels are being achieved with high sensorial textures. If manufacturers of ‘green’ personal care products are really serious about increasing their share of the market to 50% they will have to offer products with distinct positive attributes. This is all the more true since traditional producers are developing serious sustainable policies, launching ‘greener’ products and making competition tougher in the future.
At in-cosmetics Asia this year, Imagine will present a selection of products and technologies for the next generation of green formulas – whether natural substances with a high level of efficacy or functional ingredients derived from green chemistry and inventing the ‘green’ feel.
Actively natural
New natural active ingredients will be highlighted by several companies including Axialys Innovations, a research and development company which uses cutting-edge nanotechnologies to design innovative ingredients and formulations for the health and beauty industry. At Imagine it will present Viqua, an antioxidant pomegranate extract carried by an innovative and patented delivery system, ADS nanotechnology. Viqua is a nutricosmetic ingredient claimed to whiten and rejuvenate the skin from within.
DSM/Pentapharm meanwhile has a new introduction in its Alpaflor line, a range of high altitude plant extracts from the Swiss Valais. The plants in the range are organically cultivated according to the company. The new product Alpaflor ALP-Sebum is an extract of Epilobium fleischeri which is active on the regulation of oily skin via the inhibition of 5a-reductase.
Ichimaru Pharcos, an expert in active plant extracts, will introduce a novel extract from Japanese fruit – yet to be revealed – and BioSpectrum will showcase a new patented extract of wheat germ targeting stem cells with substantiated anti-ageing benefits.
Functional solutions
Imagine will also enable visitors to discover the full potential of natural formulation. Established in 1880, Gattefossé has forged a solid reputation as a quality and specialist supplier of natural ingredients for the personal care industry. At Imagine it will present an exclusive series of new all-natural formulas using only ingredients that meet the criteria of the major certifying bodies.
B&T has developed a second skin product, Sorbitan Olivate, which is water resistant and has high sensorial properties. It enhances the formulation of make-up and sun care products and should trigger interest for day creams, particularly skin lightening.
Aldivia is one of the leading companies in the green movement. The company has been a pioneer in the development of products observing fair trade and sustainable development principles as well as promoting organic certified ingredients. At Imagine it will present a new range of organic certified water dispersible oils that can be used as co-emulsifiers, emollients and co-surfactants.
Dow Corning is using Imagine to revisit wax. Classical natural waxes can be hard and brittle but a new range of vegetable-based waxes obtained by metathesis from Dow Corning offers an original alternative to green chemistry sensorial waxes.
Rhodia meanwhile will showcase its latest hair care range of green surfactants and conditioners, and Seppic has a new association of thickening polymers from vegetable origin, Solagum AX. This first Ecocert polymer from Seppic shows many advantages – low dusting, instant cold or hot water solubility – and allows the formulation of non-stringy aqueous gels.
