At in-cosmetics 2013, Evonik Personal Care introduced an emollient selection tool that makes identifying the ideal emollient easier than ever before. Formulating up-to-date cosmetics can be a challenge, especially when it comes to selecting ingredients and combining them in perfect balance. Emollients are no exception. Evoniks’ Personal Care business line offers a broad portfolio and expert advice in formulating the cosmetic oils for our customers’ products. Now a step out of the ordinary has been taken: Evonik launched an emollient selection tool that makes finding the right emollient easier for customers.
“Senses” the new tool considers different parameters and characteristics, with a special focus on sensory aspects of emollients. Most products are formulated with a mixture of emollients, carefully chosen based on their different structures and physico-chemical properties. Physical aspects like polarity, surface tension, and pour point are among the key characteristics documented in our Senses tool.
Alongside physical data, the effects of emollients on UV filter solubility are also laid out in Senses. In addition to sunscreens, nowadays face care products also contain UV filters. Emollients help achieve the desired skin feel and performance without jeopardizing sun protection. Therefore, formulators can take advantage of the synergistic effect between emollients and UV filters. Emollients have a pivotal effect on the sensory profile of skin care products. This tool maps the effect of different oil components on skin feel, enabling our customers to formulate the sensory profile that is desired. Ideally, the targeted skin feel can be achieved using eco-friendly ingredients. Evonik applies innovative technology to produce vegetable based emollients via an enzymatic process, making this goal within reach. Also for manufacturers the extensive information concerning the compatibility with packaging material is essential. The new selection tool gives cosmetic companies an understanding of each emollient’s penetration into a given material; helping to avoid instabilities in the final market product.
All of these factors influence the final texture, sensory feel, and overall performance of a cosmetic product. Senses is an expert advice booklet on emollient selection for customers to help decide and create products with improved sensory and emotional appeal. After the launch during in-cosmetics the tool has been rolled out further to other parts of the world. Latest events it has been presented include FCE in Brazil, NYSCC in the US as well as CITE in Japan.