Ruby Hammer, a veteran of the beauty industry, celebrated five years since the launch of her brand, Ruby Hammer Beauty, with a special event at The Dover in Mayfair this month.
Surrounded by loved ones, press and influencers, the atmosphere was one of gratitude and optimism as Hammer reflected on her 40-year professional journey so far.
Having built a career as a make-up artist for the likes of Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, and Meghan Markle, Hammer’s reputation as a creative force and advocate for inclusivity is well established.
Launched in 2019, Ruby Hammer Beauty is described by the MUA as a reflection of her belief in making beauty simple, empowering, and accessible.
However, running an independent beauty brand in a market crowded with celebrity brands and fast-moving trends has its challenges, especially in a world driven by social media.
“I might not become viral in five seconds,” Hammer tells Cosmetics Business. “I’m old school, so the social media part of it isn’t second nature to me, but I’m building it slowly.”
Despite this, Hammer has grown an engaged following of over 54,000 on Instagram, and she is building her presence on TikTok with 8,000 followers.
Her approach to social media is rooted in originality, with content that’s free from filters and focused on education.
Hammer acknowledges the importance of cultivating an engaged and loyal social media following, but stresses that authenticity is paramount.
“I’ve never hidden my age, and I don’t use filters,” she says.
“I want people to see the real me, and I want them to feel empowered, make-up isn’t about completely changing who you are, it’s about giving you confidence and showing you at your best.”
Hammer’s authenticity resonates with her audience, but social media is just one part of the equation.
Persistence is key
The journey of running an independent, self-funded beauty brand has been full of unexpected hurdles.
“We launched in September 2019, just before the pandemic hit, which knocked off the socks of everybody,” she recalls.
“Then Brexit brought its own challenges with trade and supply chains, and more recently, the Ukraine-Russia war disrupted everything even more.”
Despite these setbacks, Hammer’s resilience has carried her brand forward.
Having worked in the industry for decades, she knows that passion alone is not enough, it takes perseverance.
Her journey into the beauty brand world began in 1998 when she co-founded Ruby & Millie with beauty publicist Millie Kendall OBE.
The brand, exclusive to Boots, was the first of its kind makeup line to offer a diverse range of products.
It also stood out due to its futuristic cutting-edge packaging, but was discontinued in 2011.
Fast forward to 2024, as the sole creative force behind Ruby Hammer Beauty, her persistence is paying off.
She tells Cosmetics Business that Ruby Hammer Beauty is thriving, with year-on-year sales growth and award-winning products like her signature brow duo and mascara, which took three years to develop in a Korean lab.
“Our sales have grown every year,” Hammer says, attributing her success to the quality of her products and the loyalty of her customers.
“Each step forward is proof that simplicity and quality win over trends.”
Hammer’s products are designed with versatility in mind.
Her clear brow gel is suitable for all skin tones, while her cheek colours deliver a healthy glow across a wide range of complexions.
“Most people are time-poor,” she explains. “They want products that are easy to use but still make an impact.”
True inclusivity
Inclusivity is at the heart of her brand, but Hammer takes a thoughtful approach, beyond simply following industry buzzwords.
“Inclusivity isn’t about ticking boxes,” she says.
“It’s about creating products that work for everyone, no matter their skin tone, age, or gender.”
This philosophy is influenced by her own diverse background. Hammer, who has a Bangladeshi background, was born in Nigeria, and moved to the UK when she was 12.
Her multicultural experiences have shaped her inclusive vision for beauty.
Her signature red cheek colour is formulated to flatter a variety of skin tones, with deeper skin tones applying it more boldly, while lighter tones use just a hint.
Hammer admits that while budget constraints have limited the range of shades she can launch, she remains committed to starting small but ensuring her formulations are universally adaptable.
“I would love to expand the range and perhaps move into skin care, but I want to do it properly,” she says.
“I’m self-funded, so I don’t have millions behind me like I did with Ruby & Millie, when we had £7m from Boots.”
Ruby Hammer MBE
Her small, independent team, just two people including herself, manages everything from product development to marketing, a stark contrast to her previous experience with the Ruby & Millie brand.
“Back then, Boots handled the manufacturing, and Millie and I focused on the creative and merchandising side, now, I’m doing it all myself.”
While launching and running a beauty brand may seem glamorous, Hammer is quick to dispel that notion.
“It’s relentless, both mentally and physically,” she says.
Her advice for aspiring beauty entrepreneurs is simple but direct: “If you’re not absolutely passionate about it, don’t do it.”
She adds that the industry is tougher than ever, with a constant need for resilience.
“You have to understand why you’re doing it and be fully committed to seeing it through the challenges.”
Beyond product development, Hammer’s view on inclusivity extends to the entire beauty industry.
She believes real change is needed, from boardrooms to product development teams, models, and retail staff.
“We need to see diversity across all levels, not just a token model here or there,” she explains.
For Hammer, true inclusivity involves breaking down barriers around race, age, and gender, something she believes is essential for the future of the beauty industry.
Optimistic expectations
However, she’s also mindful of the challenges small brands like herself face in achieving this.
“It takes a lot of resources to launch extensive ranges, I don’t want to just do it for the sake of it, I want to create products that are genuinely unique and needed in the market.”
Despite the challenges Hammer has faced over the past five years, she remains optimistic about the future of Ruby Hammer Beauty.
With plans to expand her product range thoughtfully and a growing customer base, she believes the brand is on the right track.
“Our sales have grown every year,” she says. “I’m not crawling anymore, I’m walking quite fast now, but I can’t pretend I’m running yet.”
As one of the few remaining female-founded British beauty brands in a market dominated by celebrity names, Ruby Hammer Beauty stands out for its authenticity and commitment to inclusivity.
“Our mascara has sold out, and we’re reaching more people than ever,” Hammer says.
“I’m optimistic, but I just ask, please don’t forget the small, female-founded British brands.”
