The delivery of effective active ingredients for cosmetic application is limited by their instability during production, their poor solubility and low skin permeability.
Various techniques to achieve improved stability, bioavailability, reduced toxicity and enhanced dermocosmetic performance with topical application have been developed and this article will look at these ideas for targeted delivery of active ingredients.
Many cosmetic active ingredients are aimed at softening the stratum corneum, improving moisture levels and combatting damage by free radicals.
The problem is that the stratum corneum is a protective layer on the skin surface that has evolved to resist penetration to protect the epidermis and dermis, and if a penetration enhancer is effective, it may cause irritation or worse. This makes using lamellar and encapsulated systems preferable compared with using solvents, and they have the advantage of releasing actives over time.