Silab’s new ingredient reactivates the endogenous processes of desquamation


Exfolactive reactivates the endogenous processes of desquamation, altered during ageing, for a gentle and effective exfoliating action

Obtained from an organic supply chain of nopal flowers, Exfolactive reactivates the endogenous processes of desquamation, altered during aging, for a gentle and effective exfoliating action. The complexion is more radiant and uniform, and the skin is hydrated.

With age, the natural mechanism of desquamation slows down, dead cells accumulate on the surface of the skin. The complexion becomes dull and microrelief irregular.

Faced with this observation, Silab launched in 2005 Exfolactive. In 2021, additional efficacy data confirm the capacity of this active ingredient to:

  • Boost the natural exfoliation capacity of the skin, weakened by aging, by stimulating the activity of desquamation enzymes [1]
  • Promote cell renewal and eliminate scales for an optimal cutaneous barrier function [2].

Thanks to its biological exfoliating action effective on the face and the body, Exfolactive enables to restore an equilibrium between proliferation and desquamation to the epidermis.

After 14 days of application, Exfolactive tested at 2.5% in a Caucasian panel significantly smooths skin grain (Sa parameter: -7%).

Complexion radiance is improved (reflection: +10% and pink colour: +20%) and senescence spots are reduced (-11%). In addition, the skin is rehydrated (+24%).

In the same conditions, Exfolactive decreases by 4.1% the a* parameter, characteristic of the colour of the scars present on the cheeks in an Asian panel. The active ingredient also smooths skin grain (rugosity: -8.9%).

A comparative study conducted by Silab shows that the benefits of this natural biological exfoliation are equivalent to those obtained with the reference molecules used for chemical scrubbing (glycolic acid on Caucasian skin and salicylic acid on Asian skin), without their undesirable effects.

In order to propose a natural solution enabling to reactivate the endogenous pathways of desquamation, Silab got interested in nopal (Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill.).

Present in the most hostile deserts, this cactus has indeed developed a remarkable ability to renew itself year after year.

To ensure the traceability of its supply of nopal flowers, Silab has concluded a partnership in Tunisia, the leading producer of this resource. The partner, specialised in the organic culture of nopal, is committed to a responsible approach for Ecocert Fair For Life certification.

Between May and June, farmers harvest and dry the nopal flowers. The dried flowers are then submitted to a controlled hydrolysis allowing the optimal extraction in water of the oligosaccharides of interest.

EXFOLACTIVE (Hydrolysed Opuntia ficus-indica Flower Extract) is a patented product, available in aqueous solution (recommended amount: 2 to 4%). This active ingredient has a content of natural origin superior or equal to 99% (ISO 16128) and is compliant with international cosmetic regulations (Europe, United States, Japan, China, etc).

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[1] Tested at 1% on old keratinocytes or aged reconstructed epidermis (SILABSKIN® RE), EXFOLACTIVE® increases the activity of cathepsin D (+66%), restores the secretion of kallikrein 5 (+102%) and reduces the secretion of its inhibitor LEKTI (-85%).
[2] Tested in vivo at 2.5% on Caucasian skin, EXFOLACTIVE® favors the elimination of scales on the face (+10%) as of 5 days of treatment and stimulates the exfoliation capacity of the skin on the calves after 7 days of treatment (+16%).

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