Kao develops breakthrough formulation for dry skins

By Julia Wray | Published: 6-Sep-2019

Kao Corporation teams have worked together to create an ingredient combination for selective absorption in micro-scaling regions

Kao Corporation has announced a novel formulation targeting individuals suffering from roughness caused by dry skin.

Jointly developed by the Japanese cosmetics company’s Skin Care Laboratory, Material Science Laboratory and Analytical Science Laboratory, this formulation is based on the effective combination of ‘large water-content alpha-gel’ and a unique polymer that is selectively absorbed into micro-scaling regions.

Micro-scaling refers to a condition in which the horny layer of the skin is thinly exfoliated in pieces. According to a survey conducted by Kao, more than 90% of Japanese women suffer from micro-scaling on the skin’s surface.

On the surface of healthy, smooth skin, corneocytes show moderate adherence to each other to form a well-ordered structure. Micro-scaling appears when skin is rough or damaged and accelerates water evaporation from the skin, making it more susceptible to outside influences.

This new cosmetic preparation, however, has been shown to result in prompt improvement in the smoothness of the corneocyte layer of the skin.

Large water-content alpha-gel is a lamellar structure that holds a large amount of water between lipids. It is modelled on the structure of intercellular lipids of the corneocyte, and provides a high water-holding capacity to moisturise areas of dry skin roughness.

According to Kao research, it is ideal for finished products aimed at consumers who want very fast results (three to seven days).

This ingredient was combined with oxazoline-modified silicone (OXP-SI), a unique polymer that forms a flexible membrane as well as offering good properties for combination with large water-content alpha-gel. It was found to selectively adhere to areas of micro-scaling for a rapid improvement in skin surface condition.

The results of this research will be presented at the 58th Annual Meeting of the Japan Oil Chemists’ Society (24-26 September 2019, Tokyo) and Okinawa Colloids 2019 (3-8 November, Okinawa Prefecture).

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