Innovation and education: What to expect at in-cosmetics Asia 2018

With J- and K-beauty leading the globe when it comes to cosmetics trends and a skin care market that now accounts for 57.5% of worldwide sales, it's no surprise that Asia remains a focal region for those in the beauty industry.

From 30 October to 1 November 2018, in-cosmetics Asia will return to Bangkok's BITEC venue, allowing exhibiting suppliers and cosmetic brands to tap into opportunities in this market.

The 2018 edition brings together new features and returning highlights. New this year will be a series of 1.5 hour R&D Tours, allowing professionals to discover the latest breakthrough ingredients in three trending areas: biotechnology actives; microbiomics; and natural ingredients.

in-cosmetics Asia's popular Spotlight On programme will return, this year focusing on hydration, sensory enhancers and hair care actives, while the Pavilions will help attendees locate suppliers from specific regions, including France, India, Japan and South Korea.

The event's highly-regarded education platform will return with updates on new market trends, the regulatory landscape and technical information about newly-launched materials.

With natural and organic personal care growing in the region at a CAGR of 10% to 2021, in-cosmetics Asia will dedicate four sessions to the topic, covering: ingredients usage; ISO 16128 and the Nagoya Protocol; preservation challenges; and development strategy, respectively.

Event organisers are also encouraging R&D professionals to sign-up as soon as possible to its often-oversubscribed Formulation Lab to avoid disappointment.

The free-to-attend feature was set up to educate chemists about the secrets of creating winning formulations.

Finally, the Innovation Zone in 2018 will feature 70 novel ingredients launched within eight months of the event opening – and the best of these will be honoured at an awards ceremony on 31 October.

On the show floor, attendees can liaise with 450 ingredients suppliers from more than 24 countries. Several suppliers got in touch with Cosmetics Business to preview what they intend to launch at the end of this month in Bangkok:

ATLAS MATERIAL TESTING TECHNOLOGY STAND B93

Atlas will demonstrate the efficacy of its Suntest test chambers in supporting the creation of better UV protection products.

In Bangkok it will showcase its Suntest CPS+ practical benchtop model.

Offering a 560cm² test area for all kinds of cosmetic products, it is easily expandable with a SunTray sample changer for in vitro determination of UVA protection of skin care products.

Three optical filters provide the user with the flexibility to test their products under three different stress conditions: outdoor sunlight, behind window glass sunlight or supermarket light.

CLR BERLIN STAND H31

On its booth at in-cosmetics Asia, CLR Berlin will demonstrate the benefits of its latest ingredient, MultiMoist CLR, which will also be displayed in the Innovation Zone.

MultiMoist CLR is a cosmetic active that provides a complete solution for moisturising skin care formulations. It increases production and activation of the vitamin D receptor and potentiates the effects of vitamin D, resulting in more moisturised skin.

The ingredient has also been shown to bind water in the cortex of hair, acting to condition hair, protect against colour fading and reduce hair breakage.

MultiMoist CLR from CLR Berlin

CODIF STAND K18

A new launch from Codif will be Raykami, which is claimed to neutralise redox cascades induced by radiation.

Codif notes that the final step in the redox cascade – generated by the build up of free radicals – is protein carbonylation: an irreversible process that leads to changes in protein structure and functionality.

Skin that's regularly exposed to UV radiation has a much higher degree of carbonylation than skin exposed to a lesser extent; in the epidermis, keratin carbonylation induces a reduced transmission of light and a dull complexion, while carbonylation of support proteins in the dermis leads to rigid collagen fibres and a loss of suppleness.

Derived from the Artemisia capillaris plant, native to forests in the Shirakami region of Japan, Raykami reduces the degree of carbonylation and its consequences in the epidermis and dermis, limiting signs of accelerated ageing.

COSPHATEC STAND P81

Cosphatec is launching something brand new for in-cosmetics Asia: a new alternative preservative combination that ticks all the boxes formulators look for, being water-soluble, pH independent, odourless, transparent, liquid and easy-to-use, with a great price-to-performance ratio.

The new ingredient is free of traditional preservatives like parabens, isothiazolinones and formaldehyde donors, and can be used to easily create self-preserving formulations.

It also boasts chelating and skin conditioning properties. The alternative preservative is said to efficiently inhibit bacteria, yeast and moulds.

Additionally, it can be used in finished products where low irritation is required.

EVONIK STAND I30

Evonik will be showcasing a plethora of new cosmetic ingredients at in-cosmetics Asia this year, including the first product in its NeoPlanta biotechnological platform for the cultivation and propagation of plant cells: NeoPlanta Withania.

This active ingredient harnesses the power of the Himalayan ashwagandha plant to provide protection from solar pollution and rejuvenation from within.

Also highlighted are Hairflux, a ceramide blend to care for damaged hair and irritated scalps; Skinolance, Evonik's first microbiotic skin care product; TEGO enlight, which supports evenly toned skin more naturally; Rheance One, a sustainable glycolipid-based product that enables gentle cleansing; and TEGO Smart Polymers, which provide a pleasant sensory feel while providing SPF boosting and improved pigment dispersion effects.

JOJOBA DESERT STAND D10

At in-cosmetics Asia, Jojoba Desert will introduce three new lines of premium jojoba oil products: pure, natural liquid waxes; a unique premium line of JD Jojoba Oil-based bases; and an exceptional line of formulas demonstrating high quality jojoba-based oil products.

KOBO PRODUCTS STAND R41

Infrared radiation (especially near infrared, IR-A) penetrates deep into the epidermis, generating free radicals that result in ageing and wrinkles.

After screening numerous particulate materials, Kobo Products selected two specific grades of titanium dioxide, which showed great capacity for blocking IR-A.

These materials will be offered at Bangkok with a variety of surface treatments.

Lessonia will debut a new mask containing its Healthyskin active ingredient

LESSONIA STAND P18

Lessonia will present its innovative marine active ingredient Healthyskin at in-cosmetics Asia 2018.

Healthyskin offers a global approach for younger-looking, healthy skin, meeting the trend for healthy ageing.

This active is the product of a research partnership between Lessonia and CNRS Roscoff, which resulted in the discovery of a marine microorganism living in symbiosis with some gigartina seaweeds and involved in the digestion of a polysaccharide by secreting an enzyme called carraghenase.

The microorganism synthesises an important quantity of this enzyme to release oligocarrageenan, which activates the defence and repair systems of the gigartina seaweed when attacked.

Obtained via enzymatic hydrolysis, Healthyskin is a 100% natural oligocarrageenan that acts on three levels: strengthening the skin's defence system; reinforcing the epidermis renewal process; and smoothing skin's texture.

Lessonia has also developed a new sheet mask whose serum contains Healthyskin, which will also be showcased at in-cosmetics Asia.

LIPOID KOSMETIK STAND J78

Lipoid Kosmetik will showcase several new products at in-cosmetics Asia.

First up is HerbaGlow NRG, a COSMOS-approved active ingredient containing caper flower buds, mulberry leaves and rose roots that recharges the skin's energy reserves for radiant and fresh-looking skin.

Another focus for Lipoid Kosmetik is Natipide Eco. This is a new carrier system for hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredients based on natural raw materials and designed as a pre-liposomal concentrate.

Finally, the company's most recent launches are Cider VNGR+ and Rice VNGR+, two combinations of plant extracts, extracted using vinegar and glycerin.

Rice VNGR+ will be one of several newadditions to Lipoid Kosmetik’s portfolio

SILAB STAND J80

Bangkok will mark the Asia premier of Ecobiotys from France's Silab.

The ingredient for regulating mature skin ecology is derived from 'nectarobiota': the floral nectar that provides a rich habitat for the microorganisms residing there.

Ecobiotys was developed by studying Hoya carnosa, a plant well-known for producing lots of nectar.

Within this floral nectar, the yeast Metschnikowia reukaufii is the dominant species, acting as a regulator of the plant's microhabitat to ensure the defence, development and regeneration of the plant.

Silab's approach to the microbiota – extracting natural molecules from the microbiota of plants to influence the skin's microbiota – is said to be unprecedented so far in the cosmetics industry.

SOTECNA STAND E92

Belgian natural ingredients specialist Sotecna will present two snail extracts in Bangkok, said to be natural sources of allantoin, hyaluronic acid, glucosamine and trace elements, including zinc and calcium.

Heliskin is a cosmetic grade snail extract providing anti-ageing properties, accelerated wound healing and a natural antibacterial effect to facial creams, body lotions and serums.

Nutrelix, meanwhile, has been developed for nutraceuticals and helps speed up the healing process of skin tissues and provide anti-inflammatory properties, while also imparting strength and elasticity to the joint cartilage.

THE INNOVATION COMPANY STAND H61

The Innovation Company will showcase the Dedraflow silicone alternatives line from its Créations Soins business.

Based on hydrogenated polyisobutene, the ultra-soft emollients offer the same volatility and texture as D4 and D5 cyclomethicone materials, in addition to photostability, increased safety, ease-of-use and prevention of UV-induced formation of free radicals in the formulation.

VYTRUS BIOTECH STAND T50M

Vytrus Biotech will present its Quora Noni anti-acne ingredient in the Innovation Zone at in-cosmetics Asia.

Quora Noni is a noni plant-derived active ingredient that blocks microbiome communication systems (called quorum sensing).

Under specific conditions (eg excess sebum), bacteria on the skin communicate with each other via this system and become virulent, causing acne and other skin conditions.

Quora Noni is developed using Vytrus Biotech's Plant Cell Biofactories' Technology platform; here totipotent cells are treated to simulate bacterial infection and the cell culture produces a metabolome rich in anti-quorum sensing molecules to protect itself, which acts synergistically against quorum sensing mediated dysbiosis and its side effects – which generate acne.

The SPC team will be at in-cosmetics Asia in Bangkok, so please visit us on stand R93 to find out more about SPC, the other products in the Cosmetics Business portfolio and 2019's Pure Beauty Awards Global, which will take place in April in Dubai.