New actives Dermagenist and Relipidium harness BASF’s findings in epigenetics and microbiota. New low-molecular weight proteins Nutrilan Keratin LM and Gluadin Kera-P LM repair, strengthen and protect the hair.
At this year’s Cosmetagora (booth 132-135-136) BASF will be presenting its “Inspiring Beauty Rituals 2017” collection to the personal care industry. “We will launch three new routines inspired by life.
They provide a foresight of tomorrow’s consumer expectations, including sensory experience, performances, recovery from external stresses and sustainable sourcing of ingredients”, said Valérie Pian-Parison, Senior Operative Marketing Manager for BASF’s Personal Care business in France. “Escape from urban life” targets consumers who wish to re-synchronise with nature. It introduces slow beauty and anti-pollutant cosmetics. “Achieve performance” focuses on efficacy and product personalisation, harnessing BASF’s findings in the fields of epigenetics and bio-mimetics, whereas “Smart & Seamless” includes minimalist formulations that support a simple, healthy lifestyle.
Dermagenist, an extract from origanum majorana leaves, rich in Vicenin and Luteolin-7-0-glucuronide, is BASF’s first active ingredient to reverse methylation in fibroblasts, re-engaging the cells in the production of extracellular components and collagen. At the same time, the active stimulates actin synthesis, thereby strengthening the cells’ cytoskeleton. Fibroblasts regain their contractility, retrieve their strong adhesion and resume interactions with the surrounding dermal matrix. Dermagenist thus restores the skin’s density and firmness and effectively reverses the visible signs of skin ageing.
To reverse the vicious circle of skin dehydration caused by microbial dysbiosis, BASF has developed Relipidium – its first active ingredient that rebalances the skin’s ecosystem to restore the skin barrier and to correct skin dryness. The active stimulates the synthesis of lipids in the epidermis, speeding up barrier recovery and strengthening the skin’s defence. Relipidium is obtained from bacterial fermentation (yeast hydrolysate, biofermented by lactobacillus plantarum).
While many protein hydrolysates produce their effects on the hair surface or in the cuticle, BASF’s new low molecular weight proteins Nutrilan Keratin LM and Gluadin Kera-P LM penetrate through the cuticle deep into the cortex. This is where they help rebuild the hair with missing protein building blocks and contribute to stress-relief. On the hair surface, both micro-proteins provide protection for the cuticle.
Where normally free radicals cause protein degradation ultimately leading to weak hair, Nutrilan Keratin LM and Gluadin Kera-P LM reduce hair damage thanks to their double protective effect: Firstly, both proteins diminish the copper bond with hair and reduce damage caused by oxidative stress; secondly, they are able to intercept free radicals and thus prevent premature hair aging. Gluadin Kera-P LM is based on plant-derived protein building blocks. With an amino acid spectrum very similar to that of keratins of animal origin, it offers an alternative to conventional keratins.
BASF’s delicious “Soothing cleansing butter” melts on the skin during application and changes from a butter to a milky lotion, thus fulfilling consumers’ desire for transforming textures. “Soothing cleansing butter” has been nominated for the Cosmetagora Formulation Award 2017.