In recent years ingredient manufacturers have revisited many natural approaches and through technological innovation have developed phytonutrients into forms and delivery systems that blend seamlessly into cosmetics and functional food formulations. Shaheen Majeed explores the technology
Traditional cultures evolved seasonal dietary and topical interventions to combat the heat and humidity of the warmer months. These measures addressed concerns such as skin rashes, scalp irritation, accelerated photoageing, insect bites, sunburn, dehydration, heat stroke and food and water borne infections.
HYDRATION
Optimal hydration is important at all times, but summer activities and warm temperatures enhance the requirement for electrolytes and water in the body. Sports drinks help to replace lost fluid and electrolytes, but natural coconut water is the healthier option. In addition to quenching thirst and replenishing electrolytes, the nutrients and growth factors in green coconut water help to hydrate and protect the skin.
Coconut water, the liquid endosperm of green coconuts (Cocos nucifera), is a refreshing beverage, a natural rehydration medium, and is used as a supplement in nutrient media for tissue culture. Because it offers higher amounts of electrolytes such as potassium and magnesium than regular sports drinks, coconut water is known as a natural isotonic sports drink. The amount of RNA-phosphorus (RNA-P) in coconut water has been found to be consistently high in green coconut water. The role of RNA in amino acid transport and respiratory metabolism of living cells is well known. The RNA of coconut water would therefore efficiently support the metabolic mechanism vital to the budding endosperm tissue of the coconut, and sustain the growth of other living cells, in tissue culture.
A proprietary lyophilisation process produces a stable composition of coconut water with its inherent biological activity preserved. In preparing this composition, Cococin, green coconuts are harvested at the right stage of maturity to guarantee optimal content of RNA and growth factors, including shikimic acid, quinic acid and indole-3-acetic acid, essential vitamins, amino acids and minerals.
The proprietary freeze-dried coconut water solids blend seamlessly with dry products and dissolve readily in water. GRAS (generally recognised as safe) self-affirmed Cococin The Nourishment Factor provides a valuable nutrient pool for enhancing food and beverage formulations. Similarly, the ingredient blends well into gels, creams, lotions and other delivery systems for topical use.
IMMUNE SUPPORT
A healthy immune system is essential to combat the effects of stressors such as insect bites and sun exposure.
Probiotics have a long history of human use and cultured dairy products, for example, are traditionally consumed in several parts of the world. The FAO/WHO defines probiotics as “live microorganisms which when administered in adequate amounts confer a health benefit on the host”.
Probiotics produce metabolites such as lactic acid and antibiotic-like substances called bacteriocins that suppress the growth of putrefactive microorganisms. Their metabolic activities also help in the pre-digestion of food components and the production of vitamin B, and improve the bioavailability of minerals and other nutrients, for example isoflavones from soy milk, as reported in a recent study. Additionally, their cell wall components and metabolic products provide immune support and anti-inflammatory action.
Probiotic cultures in the form of vegetative cells that are not room temperature stable need to be freeze-dried or encapsulated by special processes to remain viable after processing, storage and exposure to acid and bile in the gastrointestinal tract. Such probiotics are therefore “dead on arrival” if they are not adequately protected. Bacillus coagulans, formerly known as Lactobacillus sporogenes (marketed as LactoSpore), GRAS self-affirmed, is a shelf-stable (at room temperature) probiotic with clinically documented efficacy in supporting health and wellness. It was originally isolated from a food source (green malt). Being in sporulated form, the culture survives and proliferates in the gastrointestinal environment, unlike vegetative cells that may be destroyed under these conditions. The culture produces only the beneficial
L-(+) form of lactic acid in the gastrointestinal tract. Management of allergy through probiotics has also been demonstrated in infants using lactobacilli to control atopic eczema and cow’s milk allergy. LactoSpore was shown to be useful in managing allergic skin conditions in infants.
Current innovations in functional foods with probiotics, including yogurts, beverages, bakery products, preserves, pickles, breakfast cereals, nutrition bars and other convenience products, as well as topical gels, creams and lotions, present attractive delivery options for these healthful ingredients.
All these options fit with meal choices and topical care during summertime activities. A proprietary blend of LactoSpore and prebiotic soluble fibre (galactomannan from fenugreek) branded LactoWise provides the combined benefits of probiotic and dietary fibre for digestive health support, regularity and immune support.
Polyphenols from sources such as green tea, turmeric, red wine (resveratrol), grapes (anthocyanins), grape seed (proanthocyanins) and Indian gooseberry (gallotannins) have been scientifically proven to support skin integrity and tone.
The bioprotectant effect of yellow natural curcuminoids and their colourless derivative, tetrahydrocurcuminoids, are well documented in experiments related to anti-tumor activity and the potential to prevent melanoma and skin cancer. These compounds provide comprehensive antioxidant protection by preventing the formation of free radicals and quenching preformed free radicals. They also address inflammation at the molecular level, with benefits in sun care and after sun care. The addition of 0.5 to 10 micromoles of curcumin to an in vitro skin cell culture inhibited the activity of the enzyme ornithine decarboxylase which has been linked to the promotion of tumour cell growth. Thus curcumin has the capability to inhibit genetic change (mutation) in the cells that often initiate the ageing process and contribute to cancer development.
Traditionally turmeric, from which curcuminoids and tetrahydrocurcuminoids are derived, has been used in the ancient system of Indian medicine, Ayurveda in a variety of internal and topical uses. Based on their history of traditional use in Ayurvedic medicine, and the relatively recent research findings on their safety and efficacy, the multifunctional curcuminoids, and their metabolite tetrahydro-curcuminoids, deserve a special place among natural anti-ageing phytonutrients.
Curcuminoids offer antioxidant support, anti-inflammatory support, support a healthy immune system and prevent connective tissue breakdown through inhibiting destructive enzymes, such as collagenase, elastase and hyaluronidase. Curcuminoids are well recognised for their role in preserving cognitive functions with scientifically validated benefits in potentially preventing Alzheimer’s disease.
Tetrahydrocurcuminoids inhibit crosslinking of proteins, supporting healthy ageing. Described as a crossregulin composition, this natural ingredient is effective in skin lightening and offers protection against UVB rays, melanoma and age spots (US Patent #6,653,327 and international patents).
All these benefits make curcuminoids and tetrahydrocurcuminoids leading natural actives to promote a sense of well-being and to effectively address sun exposure concerns.
Organic selenium compounds such as SeleniumSelect (GRAS self-affirmed L- selenomethionine) offer antioxidant and immune support (www.seleniumselect.com). Antioxidants may help in the prevention of sunburn and long-term skin damage because prolonged exposure to UV radiation decreases endogenous antioxidants in blood and skin. One study examined the influence of two different antioxidant supplements composed of carotenoids, vitamin E and selenium on parameters related to skin health and skin ageing.
Saberry is a water soluble, GRAS self-affirmed, proprietary extract from amla (Indian gooseberry), an oxygen radical absorbance capacity (ORAC) dense superfruit from the Ayurvedic tradition that quenches a variety of free radicals and stressors. The protective effects of amla against ultraviolet radiation, its detoxicant effects and broad spectrum antioxidant action, make the extract a valuable adjunct in sun care and after sun formulations.
GASTROINTESTINAL HEALTH & URINARY HEALTH SUPPORT
Warmer temperatures and summer activities often trigger food related infections and infestations. Salads and cold foods are consumed more often and, if inadequately refrigerated, may provide cause for concern. Susceptibility to urinary infections also increases.
Ginger extract, probiotics, olive leaf extract, rosemary extract and other spice extracts provide antimicrobial benefits and support a healthy digestive system. Kaempferia galanga (lesser galangal, kencur) and Alpinia galanga (greater galangal) from the Zingiberaceae family are also valued traditionally for their protective effects. Cranberry juice solids are clinically validated for their beneficial role in urinary health maintenance.
An extract of Crataeva nurvula is clinically proven to support a healthy urinary system. Clinical studies found it to be beneficial in the management of chronic urinary tract and neurogenic bladder infections, calculi and prostatic hypertrophy. Treatment with Crataeva nurvala shifted the relative proportion of urinary electrolytes, particularly those that participate in calculus formation, towards the non-lithogenic (avoid stone formation) zone.
A standardised extract, Cratavin contains 1.5% lupeol, a triterpenic compound known for its anti-inflammatory effects. Lupeol is valued as a topical soothing and skin conditioning agent, potentially helping to prevent the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by virtue of its action against enzymes that degrade connective tissues.
A summary of some of the natural nutritional and topical approaches to support sun care and after sun care is presented here. These herbs and nutritional interventions originally forming a part of rich, ancient, cultural traditions, are now available in convenient and stable powder form for seamless use in cosmetics and nutricosmetics.
Cococin, LactoSpore, SeleniumSelect, LactoWise, SeleniumSelect, Saberry and Cratavin are trademarks of Sabinsa.