Shin-Etsu Silicones of America (SESA: A US subsidiary of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co. Ltd., Japan) recently demonstrated its newly enhanced line of high-optics / soft-focus formulation raw materials at the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) Suppliers' Day event (Javits Convention Center, New York City, NY: May 1-2, 2024).
A pioneer in the field of silicones for personal care products, SESA’s KSG-19 and KSG-45 are novel elastomer gel and skin-conditioning agents, that are naturally derived raw materials and ideal for a vast array of cosmetics products including: moisturising creams, sunscreens, and high-performance, long-lasting makeup and lip wear, amongst others.
Detailed presentations at the event highlighted SESA’s most recent advancements for both materials that achieve advanced property and sensorial aesthetic benefits including:
KSG-19: Silicone Elastomer Gel
INCI: Dimethicone (&) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
SESA’s uniquely advanced KSG-19 is a silicone elastomer gel in dimethicone fluid with an enhanced smooth and silky feel. Due to its unique 3-dimensional crosslinked structure, it’s able to diffuse more light and give a soft-focus effect−concealing skin imperfections thus providing a natural look.
Unlike the standard KSG-16 gel, it delivers less oiliness−providing ease-of-application and a more silky/smooth feel. It is also a great thickener and provides a high soft-focus/matte effect. Ultimately, it broadens formulation capabilities with a wide variety of sensory feels for skincare and makeup products.
KSG-45: Alkyl Modified Silicone Elastomer Gel
INCI: Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (&) Vinyl Dimethicone/Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
SESA’s advanced KSG-45 is a silicone elastomer gel that is swollen with a plant-based oil that delivers a dryer skin feel with enhanced mattifying and thickening effect. Because it is swollen in a plant-based oil, it is uniquely desirable for when you have systems that are highly organic.
At their SCC booth, SESA representatives provided three formulation examples of the KSG-19 and KSG-45 including:
Hydrate & Blur Foundation: This buildable light to medium coverage foundation contains polyglycerin type emulsifiers−KSG-710 and KF-6104. They allow the formation of a stable W/O emulsion with a noticeable cooling effect. The KSG-19 elastomer gel gives a nice velvety texture to the formula while helping to blur skin imperfections. Ultimately, it delivers a nice texture with no other powders, that could settle into the fine lines in the base of the pours for better blurring.
Smooth & Blur Face Primer: SESA featured a smoothing face primer designed to hide skin imperfections by providing obvious blurring effects with a soft powdery end-feel. Two versions were showcased using the same chassis, one with KSG-19 and the other with KSG-45. This allowed the attendees to compare the sensory differences between the two gels. The combination of these high optic gels along with KSG-210 gives these primers a silky smooth, lightweight texture that blends effortlessly into the skin.
In addition to the KSG-19 and KSG-45 raw materials, SESA also reintroduced its long-wear lipstick formulation − their patented multi-functional film former TSPL-30-ID.
TSPL-30-ID: Silicone Modified Pullulan
INCI: Isododecane (&) Trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl Pullulan (TSPL)
SESA’s multi-functional TSPL-30-ID is a siliconized pullulan film-former in isododecane. The patented product offers formulators simultaneous properties engineered to achieve anti-transfer benefits for long-wear lip applications, comfort, and a non-tacky feel − without compromising the adhesion properties.
Recently optimised for more comfort and longer wear, the TSPL-30-ID’s silicone modification renders the pullulan polymer with excellent water repellency and oil repellency−which are the key elements for achieving anti-transfer benefits for long wear lip applications. Silicone moiety further modifies the film flexibility for comfort and a non-tacky feel, without compromising the adhesion properties.
SESA showcased a lightweight non-transfer mattifying liquid lip colour using TSPL-30-ID that lasts all day without flaking or bleeding.
SESA / NYSCC CONCLUSION:
SESA’s KSG-19 and KSG-45 are novel elastomer gel and skin-conditioning agents, that are naturally derived raw materials and ideal for a vast array of cosmetics products including: moisturising creams, face primers, sunscreens, and high-performance makeup, amongst others.
According to SESA’s Cosmetics Application Laboratory Team Leader, Janine Cherette, “Both materials have high optical blurring with nice sensorial texture and soft-focus effects. Used in a myriad of cosmetics formulations, they defuse light to minimise minor imperfections on the face−like fine lines. This also enables you to do it without powdery residues to provide a natural look. Also, they don’t come off as a mask or chalky because they are translucent face primers.”
SESA’s North America Marketing Manager, Eric Bishop, noted, “The range of soft-focus, skin-friendly mixture possibilities are vast for formulators to choose from to achieve their desired high optics formulations. These advanced materials are a unique addition to our expansive portfolio of cosmetics silicones with natural ingredients for skin care.”
SESA’s cosmetic formulations are developed at their 14,000 sq. ft., state-of-the-art Cosmetics Application Laboratory in Paramus, NJ. Strategically located only 20 miles from Manhattan and Newark International Airport, it allows SESA to be closer to many of its strategic customers based in New York and New Jersey.
