Hyaluronic acid (HA) has been the skin care industry’s gold standard hydrator for more than 40 years, but now, it might have competition from Pentavitin.
A flurry of beauty brands are now working with this moisture-binding active because it not only draws moisture to skin’s surface like HA and glycerin do, but it goes a step further and actually binds moisture to the keratin in the skin for 72 hours without it evaporating, giving longer-term hydration.
Providing hydration lasting beyond a few hours is where many other excellent hydrators currently struggle – by comparison HA lasts around four-to-24 hours, depending on the formula, according to research.
So, what is Pentavitin, and why all the fuss?
Also known as saccharide isomerate, Pentavitin is a plant-derived moisturising ingredient and its structure is very similar to the sugars found within the skin's natural moisturising factor,” explains Dr Sonia Khorana, GP, Dermatology Expert and Cosmetic Doctor.
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“This allows it to bind effectively to the skin's surface, attracting and retaining water to support long-lasting hydration and skin barrier function.”
Yet, it is not a new ingredient.
Pentavitin was created by fragrance and flavour company DSM-Firmenich and has been around since 2011.
But, it is back in the spotlight because brands are beginning to recognise increasing consumer demand for longer-term hydration, and the benefits that come with it, such as a protected skin barrier, lasting plumpness and glow, improved make-up wear and skin care longevity.
“The challenge for brands today is consumers’ expect more than a temporary boost in moisture, they want skin that remains hydrated all day, with visible radiance and a healthy, resilient barrier,” explains Janet Milner-Walker, Brand Consultancy Expert and founder of Bespoke Advantage.
“As a result, brands are looking beyond a single hero ingredient now, and given hyaluronic acid has become almost ubiquitous in skin care, it is increasingly difficult for brands to differentiate themselves by using HA as a standalone hydrator.”
Pentavitin is a plant-derived moisturising ingredient
Why demand for Pentavitin is on the rise
There is also growing consumer awareness that not all HA products perform in the same way, with efficacy dependent on
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