Supercritical marigold flower CO2-extract - evergreen in evidence based cosmetic application

Authors: Dr P. May, Dr K.-W. Quirin, Flavex Naturextrakte GmbH, Rehlingen, Germany

Marigold (Calendula) has gained increasing attention in recent years due to new scientific evidence of the old well-known healing forces of the plant in dermatological and cosmetic applications. Supercritical CO2-extraction proves state-of-the-art technology for producing highly active Calendula extracts. The pentacyclic triterpene alcohols such as faradiol-3-monoesters and monols such as taraxasterols are important marker ingredients and have been identified as the anti-inflammatory principles which are especially enriched by CO2-extraction. The Calendula CO2-extract thus delivers the base for active and well standardised cosmetic preparations especially for ointments which have a long tradition in the self-medication of skin diseases and in cosmetics. In contrast to other asteraceae, marigold does not contain sesquiterpene lactones which might have a sensitising potential.

Introduction

Marigold (Calendula officinalis L.) – not to be confused with tagetes – is an annual unpretentious plant of 30-60 cm height, growing wildly or cultivated in Mediterranean countries, North Africa, Asia, North and Middle America. The active parts are the yellow to dark orange flowers which can be harvested during the whole summer season.

The marigold flower, along with the arnica and the chamomile flower, is one of the best known medical plants. All three belong to the same asteraceae plant family and have similar physiological properties but Calendula, in contrast to the other Asteraceae flowers does not contain any sesquiterpene lactones which may cause allergies. Among the various species of the genus Calendula, only Calendula officinalis and C. arvensis are used worldwide, mainly the officinalis variety.