SpecWhite 05 is a highly-effective skin lightener from a natural, safe, effective and skin-friendly source. It is created via the cyclisation of L-cysteine (I) to L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid (II).
SpecWhite 05 is a cysteine pro-drug of natural origin, which is safe and skin-friendly. It has a highly-effective inhibiting rate on the tyrosinase enzyme (up to 92.2% at 0.5 w/w%) providing excellent skin lightening and whitening ability.
It augments intracellular glutathione by providing substrate cysteine for glutathione synthesis. SpecWhite 05 is easy to use and water-soluble.
Efficacy of SpecWhite 05
In a test to ascertain the tyrosinase-inhibition activity of SpecWhite 05, anti-tyrosinase activity was trialled using samples in a 96-well microplate.
The samples were dissolved with solution buffer in different concentrations. The sample was mixed with 80μL of the phosphate buffer (pH6.8) and 40μL of L-tyrosine (5mmol/L).
The mixed solution was incubated at 37°C for ten minutes. Then 40μL of mushroom tyrosinase solution (150U/mL) was added and incubated at 37°C for five to ten minutes.
After incubation, the visible absorption was measured at 490nm. Tyrosinase inhibition (T) was calculated as in the following equation:
T (%) = [1- (A - B) /(C - D)]*100
Where A is the absorbance value of the test sample, B is the absorbance value of the blank sample, C is the absorbance value of the control and D is the absorbance value of the blank control.
The inhibition rate of 5mg/mL SpecWhite 05 on tyrosinase activity was shown to be as much as 92.2%, and the IC50 value of SpecWhite 05 was calculated as 4.6mg/mL, according to the dose-response curve.
The above result is comparative to the inhibition rate of 0.2mg/mL Vc on the tyrosinase enzyme (mushroom) activity (97.6%).
Formulation Example: Whitening Essence（0.5% SpecWhite 05）
Features:
Whitens skin, absorbs quickly, gives smooth texture.
Preparation:
- Mix phase A at 80°C while stirring until completely dissolved
- Mix phase B components and stir well
- Add phase A into B, homogenise for five mins
- Disperse phase C and cool the base below 60°C then add phase C
- Cool the base below 45°C then add phase D while stirring until room temperature.