Ingredients innovation: An AI peptide and a digital-stress buster

By Julia Wray | Published: 7-Jun-2023

Discover four new cosmetic ingredients and an eco upscale in this month’s selection of ingredients news

For June, Nuritas has announced it has harnessed AI to discover a nature-identical peptide, claiming to target five signs of ageing.

Addressing the dark side of tech, meanwhile, is Provital whose new Circanblue, a natural biotech ingredient, promises to reset the effects of digital stress on the skin.

Discover these and more in June’s ingredients round-up.

1. Croda, Incromine BD

Claiming to meet the needs of ‘clean’ hair care brands demanding quat-free conditioning, Incromine BD is the latest ingredient from Croda.

The vegan-suitable and cruelty-free product is said to deliver excellent anti-frizz and detangling performance.

In traditional systems, quats (short for quaternary ammonium compounds) provide a slippery feel and easy glide to conditioners and shampoos.

However, quats can be irritating to the skin and eyes, and are persistent in the environment, leading some brands to look for alternatives.

A hair sensory evaluation on colour treated hair testing Incromine BD versus traditional quats, showed Croda’s new ingredient offers equivalent conditioning and sensory benefits to traditional quats in all attributes for colour treated hair.

The ingredient is also readily biodegradable, according to the OECD 301B guidelines and evaluation; and 73% derived natural, according to ISO 16128.

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