in-cosmetics 2008 preview

Published: 10-Apr-2008

in-cosmetics makes its first visit to the Netherlands this year (Amsterdam RAI, 15-17 April). The key focus is of course the show itself, this year featuring over 430 exhibitors. But also look out for in-focus Utopia, the Marketing Trends Presentations, the Cosmetic Science Conference, Innovations Seminars and a new Innovation Zone. And of course don\'t forget to visit SPC on stand D205

in-cosmetics makes its first visit to the Netherlands this year (Amsterdam RAI, 15-17 April). The key focus is of course the show itself, this year featuring over 430 exhibitors. But also look out for in-focus Utopia, the Marketing Trends Presentations, the Cosmetic Science Conference, Innovations Seminars and a new Innovation Zone. And of course don't forget to visit SPC on stand D205

ACT - stand G134

New from ACT is Phytolex PS extract, a standardised extract from the resin used by plants to protect themselves when attacked by fungi, insects and bacteria. It is a compound botanical extract that has been used for various medicinal purposes, such as in oriental herbal medicines. ACT states the extract has lower minimum inhibitory concentration figures than other natural preservatives and has a broad-spectrum antibacterial effect suitable for use in lotions over a broad range of pH levels and temperatures.

Agrimer - stand H196

Based on the Brittany coast in France, Agrimer specialises in marine expertise and will be promoting its range of products and services. These include private label manufacture as well as the raw material transformation.

Aromtech - stand E201

Aromtech is expanding the ArctiCare line to include Berry Phenolics, a move which will see seven new ArctiCare products introduced in Amsterdam. This will include three oil soluble extracts – EfaRuby, Plantagonol and Shajio – accompanied by Shajifen, which is soluble in water and alcohol, and additional extracts Plantainol, Sun Essence and Junessence.

Astron Clinica - stand D214

The Cosmetrics system, based on SIAscopy, has been adopted by a multitude of major cosmetic companies and testing labs as an analytical tool to define how skin care products interact with haemoglobin, melanin and collagen. The newer Siametrics is a partner skin imaging and measurement system to Cosmetrics that is said to add the ability to quickly and efficiently transfer chromophore maps, captured in just ten seconds as Siascans, to in-house or third party image analysis software, offering improved accuracy and potential cost savings.

Bayer MaterialScience - stand A208

Bayer MaterialScience will present new waterborne polyurethane (PU) dispersions and powders. Baycusan PU dispersions are said to offer superior hold at high humidity and leave hair easy to comb when used as a film former in hair styling products. In decorative cosmetics they are said to improve the water resistance of mascara, lipsticks and eyeliner. In face and body care products they promise a silky feel both during and after application.

Beraca - stand C186

New for 2008 from Beraca is Beracare BBA (BioBehenic Active) a new natural and organic conditioning active, extracted from Pentaclethara macroloba Wil and rich in behenic acid, claimed to provide conditioning, softening and shine

imparting qualities for hair. Additionally the Ecocert certified ingredient is said to promote greater viscosity when used in emulsions.

Biogenics - stand F213

South Korean company Biogenics will be offering information on its solutions for technical difficulties involving bioactive materials and will showcase its range of products, including Pure Vitamin C-Silicon, which is said to be highly effective at the delivery of active vitamin C.

BiotechMarine - stand E180

BiotechMarine will be publicising its latest active ingredient based on stem cell technology at the show. Based on the same process as the exisiting CIC2 anti-ageing and skin lightening active ingredient, new Cellulosome uses cells obtained from Eryngium maritimum or sea holly. The product is said to act on skin restructuring and is claimed to regenerate the epidermis, cell differentiation, and act on the dermo-epidermal junction and the dermis. Cellulosome of Eryngium is also said to have proven efficacy in the reduction of photo-induced irritation and inflammation. Its cosmetic claim has been verified through in-vivo tests.

Boai NKY Pharmeceuticals - stand J201A

NKY is using the Amsterdam event as an opportunity to alert formulators to the addition of KoVidone K12 to its list of premium polyvinylpyrrolidone-based products. KoVidone K12 is a low molecular weight water-soluble homopolymer of N-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone with a K-value between 10.2 and 13.8. The ingredient used to enhance the aqueous solubility of actives by inhibiting their crystallisation in formulations. Boai NKY says that KoVidone K12 meets the requirements of Povidone in current US and European pharmacopoeias and is suited for high active soft gel formulations, ophthalmic formulations and parenteral applications.

Chemyunion - stand B164

Brazilian company Chemyunion will launch two new ingredients. Melscreen Coffee ORG is a coffee oil extracted from organically certified Coffea arabica green coffee beans. The oil is obtained through cold-pressing and is said to offer firming and regeneration effects, hydration, essential fibre production and lipolytic activity. The company will also launch Sensactive VEG, a multifunctional and multisensorial additive derived from a vegetal source, said to offer a smooth touch to the skin and an immediate sensorial effect. The ingredient also helps to stimulate beta-endorphin and enkaphalin synthesis to promote well-being.

Ciba - stand C180

Ciba is launching Ciba Tinovis CD which, in addition to excellent rheology control, is claimed to deliver focused conditioning to where the hair most needs it, avoiding excessive deposition that results in a heavy, greasy feel. The ingredient also works synergistically with conditioning agents and other actives, aiding in their even distribution and deposition to help improve the general efficacy of hair or skin care formulations.

CLR - stand F124

This year CLR will be introducing DayMoist CLR, a new cosmetic active. The plant-derived ingredient is said to support natural moisturising factors in arranging a high level of hydration in the outer layers of the skin. It's moisturising properties have been proved objectively by two in vivo technologies, including the state-of-the-art Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy system of testing that is currently the only method that enables reliable, rapid and non-invasive determination of molecular gradients in the stratum corneum.

Codif - stand F155

New Hydralinol is designed to boost urea storage in the epidermis, consequently achieving visibly more hydrated skin. An oily extract of Salicornia herbacea, the ingredient acts jointly on the synthesis of AQP8 and the cohesion of the skin.

Cognis - stand E130/ Laboratoires Serobiologiques - stand E138

In line with the group's Green Chemical Solutions, these two stands will present a variety of natural-based personal care solutions designed to help manufacturers develop products for this growing sector. There's a very mild pearlising dispersion for hair and body cleansing formulations; a preservative-free ingredient based on gymnemic acid role in the inhibition of hair follicle activity to prolong and enhance depilation effects; and a surfactant targeting oral care that combines environmental sustainability with mildness and improved taste. Also launching are a liquid acrylic emulsion polymer promising special rheological behaviour in cleansing preparations; a texture agent that delivers a melting texture with a velvety matte finish for applications including sun care, APDs and foundations; and a delivery system comprising microcapsules, nanocacpsules and visual beads offering solutions for high end cosmetics.

Coptis - stand B208

The French software provider for cosmetic R&D laboratories will unveil a new international service, focusing on a partner network of experienced and established cosmetic professionals. The network will oversee sales and customer service throughout Western Europe, the US and Brazil, and is said to offer a closer service to Coptis customers. The new international service will also include a new website, available in six languages, and all Coptis software will also soon be available in six languages.

Cosmetochem -stand B191

A partnership with Australian company and brand Outback Spirit sees Cosmetochem release Outback Spirit Botanicals, a range of exotic Australian fruits and plants that are inspired by the vast Australian outback. Development of the line has brought jobs and flow-on benefits to Australian indigenous people who have supplied the plants. The line will be attractive to brands looking to build on strong ethical principles whilst meeting every current compliance requirement in safety and supply chain control.

CPN - stand B140

This year CPN introduces a new product called TanActine, a new multi-active designed for use in sun care formulations. TanActine intensifies skin tanning, reduces appearance of redness and irritation, prevents photoageing and provides healthy feeling to skin. It promotes UV-induced melanin synthesis and pigmentation, prevents cytotoxic effects of UVB radiation and reduces production of pro-inflammatory mediators. There will also be a chance to test out CPN's HyActive, a special grade of hyaluronan with a very low molecular weight and powerful anti-ageing properties.

DSM - stand E140

While folic acid has well established properties, including stimulating cell proliferation, modulating DNA repair and protecting cells during UV exposure, it is not often used in topical cosmetic application due to difficulties with formulation. DSM now has a folic acid it says overcomes these issues. The company also has a new form of vitamin A palmitate that is protected with dl-alpha-tocopherol with a carrier of natural medium chain triglycerides. The liquid form is said to be easy to handle and be guarteed GMO and peanut-free, reducing potential risk of allergic reaction.

Dow Corning - stand C200

Dow Corning will demonstrate and discuss its latest solutions for skin and hair care including Dow Corning CE 8401 Emulsion and Dow Corning 5-7070 Si Amino Elastomer Emulsion.

Dr Straetmans - stand B200

In-cosmetics will see the launch of Dermosoft 688 ECO, a new multifunctional ingredient with excellent fungicidal activity for natural cosmetics. This is a new version of the petrochemically derived Dermasoft 688 ingredient that has been used for years and is sourced from renewable plant materials. The new Eco form boasts equal fungicidal properties due to its same chemistry and purity of the raw material as the synthetic version.

Evonik -stand G164

A new plant extract platform allows Evonik to offer nature-derived active ingredients, which include Tego Turmerone, Tego Arjuna, Tego Galanga and Tego Policosanol.

Florame -stand G188

Essential oil specialist Florame will be highlighting its organic credentials with cosmetic lines including the DermaStress Protection line, which features an exclusive anti-ageing compound of organic essential oils.

Floratech - stand E210/B175

Floratech will be using the show to launch Floralipids Moringa Oil in Europe. This natural emollient, suitable for all types of cosmetic formulations, has an oxidative stability profile that Floratech says exceeds that of all other cosmetic grade vegetable oils. Moringa's properties include low colour, cushiony skin feel, very low spread and relatively high slip, which combine to give it exceptional aesthetic and tactile qualities.

Gattefossé - stand E156

Look out for two new actives from Gattefossé as well as new substantiation data on existing materials and new formulation kits. Gatuline In-Tense is a new anti-ageing active. Stimulating the biomechanical functions of fibroblasts, this reorganises the architecture of the dermis to fight the signs of ageing to produce immediate results. Cytobiol Lumin-Eye is an anti-ageing eye contour cocktail designed to relieve congestion in the skin and stimulate cutaneous microcirculation to fight against the appearance of dark circles and puffiness. Activity for this has been substantiated in-vivo.

Glanbia Nutritionals Europe - stand F215

This division of Glanbia plc says it will launch a range of cutting edge ingredients developed from the natural benefits of dairy and olive fruit to create exciting, beauty boosting ingredients. Dairy-based Glovon is said to effectively combat bacterial growth while dairy-based bioactive protein Bioferrin is said to protect skin from the effects of ageing. The latter is said to increase hyaluronic acid by as much as ten times to improve moisture and suppleness while reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. From olive, OvivActive is said to contain 35% of the antioxidant hydroxysterol and to encourage healthy, radiant skin by eliminating free radicals.

Honeywell - stand F135

Honeywell will be presenting the latest additions to its Asensa line of personal care products. Asensa PR 210 and PR 220 are designed for use in the lipid phase of a formulation due to their ability to enhance film forming and structuring properties. Honeywell claims they offer a much lower melting point than PE film formers currently on the market. The products are suitable for skin care or sun care formulations or any application that needs lipid phases with a high moisture barrier or waterproofing requirements.

IDEA - stand G190

Responding to regulartory and ethical pressures and REACH in particular, institut Dermatologique d'Aquitaine (IDEA) recently invested t200,000 in extending a new cell culture lab primarily dedicated to the OECD's regulatory in-vitro tests to evaluate the capacity of chemicals to alter genetic heritage. IDEA says it aims to offer genetic toxicology tests (Ames test, mammalian cell gene mutation test, chromosome aberration test) from Q2 2008 in compliance with GLP.

Industrial Quimica Lasem - stand D200

In line with the recent reorientation of its esters portfolio to focus on emollients and emulsifiers, the company will be launching two new series of products at in-cosmetics. The Soldoc range covers momocomponent products with multifunctional activity in order to offer alternatives to products based on silicones and mineral oil while concurrently offering high spreadability and bio-harmonic compatibility. The Emolid series includes Emolid EB 20, a star product that comprises all the advantages from different natural vegetable oils but also prohibits rancidity and oxidation. It is seen as a potential alternative to mineral oil in formulations.

Innospec - stand B214

Innospec's Active Chemicals business manufactures Finsolv emollients and provides a range of other speciality chemicals. The company has recently started production for the first time outside the US with a new facility at Ellesmere Port in the UK. A new benzoate ester blend Finsolv TPP is said to have particularly exciting applications for sunscreens, moisturisers, antiperspirants and deodorants. Other highlights at the show will include dispersants, conditioning agents, surfactants, rheology modifiers, a biodegradable chelant and novel mini sponge beads, Activsoft MS100. This is a crosslinked, super-absorbing polymer that swells instantly in the presence of water to form transparent beads that create novel visual effects, impart good tactile properties to skin care formulations and aid cleansing.

Inolex - stand J216

Hair care formulators can now benefit from Inolex's new Kerabase. This is an optimised conditioning base that is to be promoted as eco-friendly and also easy to use as no homogenisation is required. Inolex say that tests on hair tresses have demonstrated that Kerabase meets or exceeds current leading brands.

Jeen International - stand J161

New from Jeen is Jeenate 3H, a low melting point, linear low molecular weight polyethylene said to be ideal for improving structure and hardness of oils in non-stick formulations. It is said to be good for stabilising emulsions, improving film properties and delivering a soft after-feel to skin. With a typical melting point range of 70-74°C it is said to deliver good results in temperature sensitive applications that require improved structure. It is recommended as a primary stabilising agent for water-in-silicone emulsions, anhydrous mascara, lipgloss and water-in-petrolatum emulsions.

KitoZyme - stand G172/H211

A specialist in potent vegetal actives, KitoZyme will launch KiOsmetine-CG30, a lip care and colour cosmetic ingredient for smoothing, restoring and protecting lips. The material is said to smooth cracked and chapped lips, form a film to protect lips from UV rays and pollution, stimulate collagen renewal to give lips a fuller appearance and provide good conditioning. It also provides a good after-feel and has a thickening effect and is suitable for use in Soil Association, Ecocert and BDIH approved products.

Kolb - stand D195

Kolb will be promoting several PEG-free emulsifiers with the aim of giving formulators options compatible with skin and environmentally friendly claims. Two of the new emulsifiers are eco-certified and ideas for the use of these will be presented at the show.

Laboratoire BIO-EC - stand F189

Efficacy tests and transdermal studies is the focus here, specifically ex-vivo evaluation of pharnmacological activities on human skin explants, histological studies using a variety of immunological and chemical stainings, in-vivo studies on volunteers and transdermal studies to evaluate cutaneous absorption or transcutaneous diffusion of substances.

Lessonia - stand E172

2008 sees Lessonia demonstrate its new Microzest 25 powders, aimed to enhance the feel and the texture of products, including lotions and creams, while the powders are held in suspension ensuring stability. The ingredient is claimed as 100% natural and preservative-free.

Lipotec - stand F150

Spanish active ingredients company Lipotec will introduce Chromabright, a brightening active designed to unify skin tone. Based on a patented molecule, it is said to be safer and better tolerated than other skin lighteners. It shows no cytotoxic or phototoxic effects and does not cause irritation or sensitisation. Tested at 0.1% over 60 days in-vivo on Asian skin it showed a significant increase in skin luminance. Also new for 2008 are Decelerine, which helps skin recover after shaving and depilatory treatments and also delays hair growth, and Hilurlip, a lip plumper said to redefine and minimise fine vertical lines and keep lip contours in shape. Another new product targets stretch marks.

Mibelle - stand B161

Following its philosophy of 'inspired by nature - realized by science', Mibelle Biochemistry says is has established a revolutionary new way to combine nature and science. PhytoCellTec is a patent pending plant cell culture technology with which Mibelle has developed an active based on apple stem cells rich in epigenetic factors and metabolites. PhytoCellTec Malus Domestica is said to protect skin stem cells and delay the senescence of hair follicles. The application of plant cell cultures to maintain the function of skin stem cells is described as a breakthrough in anti-ageing.

Momentive Performance Materials - stand B194

The latest advance from Momentive, the second largest global supplier of silicones and silicone derivatives, is its Velvesil FX gel, designed to enhance the benefits of boron nitride powder by improving its processability and spreadability as well as the sensory experience of the consumer product. In colour cosmetics it is useful for optimisation of the combined performance of boron nitride (excellent coverage, naturalness, line blurring effects and oil absorption) with the sensory attributes of silicones (soft, smooth feel and gentle application). Also being promoted will be Tospearl Microspheres, Silsoft silicone gel and Silsoft E-Pearl emulsion.

Monoï Institute - stand C203

Tahitian-based Monoï oil specialist L'Institut du Monoï will use the occasion of in-cosmetics to launch Rituals, a new guide featuring several new formulation ideas for face and body. These include purifying mousse with tiare flowers, black mask with Tahitian pearl, refreshing mist with lagoon water and draining pulp with Moorea pineapple.

Neelikon - stand C201

Lavanya is a Sanskrit adjective used to describe a beautiful, radiant woman. It’s also the name for Neelikon's new range of high quality, low impurity colours developed exclusively for the C&T industry. The range comprises organic dyes and pigments for personal care, cosmetic and home care, organic lakes and inorganic pigments for decorative cosmetics, pastes for lipsticks and pearls for cosmetics and personal care (restricted markets). Neelikon promises no minimum order requirement, US FDA certification (where applicable), technical support and prompt delivery from stocks in India and the UK.

ORF Genetics - stand J160

ORF Genetics will showcase a unique technology for manufacturing human growth factors in barley seeds. The new Orfeus technology is said to bypass both animal cells and bacteria as a host thanks to hydroponic cultivation that occurs under controlled conditions in a geothermally-driven, high-tech greenhouse complex. The ISOkine growth factors are said to be bio-risk free and feature low protease activity, undetectable endotoxin levels, very low pyrogenic and pro-inflammatory activity and are derived from a GRAS species (FDA), making it a suitable production platform for plant-made ingredients for the cosmetics industry.

Pentapharm - stand G204

A major new concept called Cosmeceutopy will be unveiled in Amsterdam, as a contribution to the in-focus theme of Utopia, invoking the philosophy of the Swiss Rare Forest. Pentapharm will be presenting details of a Trans-Sahara expedition undertaken by Swiss explorer Andrea Vogel whilst using a formulation using key Pentapharm ingredients. The company will also be promoting its recently launched anti-stretch marks solution Regu-stretch, a complex designed to prevent and treat striae.

Polaris - stand H189

Polaris is a leader in research and production of omega 3, 6 and 9 nutritional lipids and has recently opened a new cosmetic division and launched its own range of highly stabilised vegetable oils to target the nutricosmetic sector. The company actually developed a new process, Qualitysilver, which it says stabilises polyunsaturated oils against oxidation. A whole range of natural actives with different properties will be on offer, including kiwi seed oil, raspberry seed oil, borage, camelina and olive among many others.

Qenax - stand E215

Founded in 2007, Qenax is a new cosmetics actives supplier and will be exhibiting at in-cosmetics for the first time. The company is presenting a scientific paper at the CSC conference and will be promoting its products, which offer added value through their individuality and flexibility.

Rita - stand E170

Products to be highlighted by Rita include lanolin and lanolin derivatives, carbomers and Ritafactants. The Ritafactant line of patented, mild, multifunctional surfactant blends includes Ritafactant 138AN, an all-natural surfactant.

Saint-Gobain Advanced Ceramics - stand K221

Saint-Gobain will focus on its assortment of ultra-high purity grades and blends sold under the brand name TRES BN. Each grade of these powders has unique properties that are associated with crystal size, morphology and surface characteristics.

Sederma - stand C164

Sederma will be emphasising its latest active ingredients. Among these Ovaliss is said to reduce the appearance of a double chin by reshaping the facial contours, while Essenskin fortifies thin and fragile skin for people over 60. ODA White is a skin brightening ingredient, with a new mechanism of action from the heart of the melanocyte, and Aqualance replumps dehydrated skin to the ideal level of water.

Sisterna - stand F214

The sucrose ester specialist will introduce new formulation concepts with sucrose esters for skin care and decorative cosmetic applications. The R&D team has developed new textures with the materials, including chocolate mousse type emulsions and lipstick bases said to have a fantastic skin feel. Sucrose esters are said to make excellent emulsifiers for natural (100%), even edible skin care. They also offer interesting foaming and conditioning properties in mild cleansing formulations and their mildness makes them suitable for leave-on products.

Solabia - stand 180

Omega Ceramides technologies consist of stabilised polyunsaturated fatty acids from vegetal oils under a biomimetic ceramide form obtained by an enzymatic solvent-free process. Within this Omega 3 Ceramide is said to fight against stress while Omega 6 and Omega 9 protect the skin's integrity and enhance skin firmness respectively. Solabia will also participate in the Utopia theme, presenting three different but complementary beauty universes.

Soliance - stand D201

Look out for four new actives from Soliance. Abdoliance is a slimming active designed for men. The blend of natural ingredients is said to prevent preferential fat deposition in the abdominal area, which is specific to men, while enhancing lipolysis by modulating the key enzymes involved in this mechanism. Vegetan Premium is described as a new generation of self-tanning agent in a synergistic blend of DHA and allomelanin-like compound. It is said to significantly improve colour intensity with a natural looking tan and increase speed of colouration. To improve skin hydration, Ecocert approved Renovhyal is a low molecular weight hyaluronic acid grade that stimulates tight junction protein synthesis to reinforce cell cohesion. It is said to reduce skin roughness and improve biomechanical properties, enhancing collagen I synthesis, and improve skin tone. Finally, Grevilline is a soothing, brown microalgae-derived active extracted from Skeletonema costatum that is said to reduce erytherma and limit inflammation by reducing IL8 release and inhibiting phospholipase A2 activation.

Stephenson Personal Care - stand E117

Concentrating on its newest and most environmentally sustainable products in Amsterdam, Stephenson has developed two versions of entirely palm-free soap bases – Opal Eco PF and Crystal Eco PF – that also boast natural ingredients.

Straticell - stand E192

In vitro specialist Straticell is currently developing a specific proprietary cosmetic chip to answer the growing needs for mechanistic data to support claims in cosmetic R&D. This low density array contains around 200 genes of interest in skin biology and the company's Skin & Cosmetics chip is designed to simultaneously target genes involved in epidermal structure and cohesion, terminal differentiation, skin ageing, melanogenesis, UV protection and moisturisation.

Tagra - stand J211

Tagra's focus will be on the company's new Release on Demand (RND) concept, which will now include additional colours and natural fragrances.

Univar - stand C200

Univar will be underlining the benefits offered by its dedicated European laboratory. Customers gain access to a large database of formulations while suppliers are able to use Univar's lab.

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