Givaudan Active Beauty introduces SensoTrue DM5™, a bio-based emollient developed via a combination of white biotechnology and green chemistry as an alternative to 5 cSt dimethicone (DM5 silicone). It pairs premium sensory performance with a significantly improved environmental profile, delivering the luxurious feel that consumers expect from silicones whilst supporting the beauty industry's shift towards more sustainable formulations.
For decades, silicones have set the standard for softness, shine and smoothness in hair care. Today, growing environmental concerns, evolving regulations and increasing consumer demand for naturally derived ingredients are reshaping this benchmark, driving the search for alternatives that do not compromise on sensory experience or efficacy.
SensoTrue DM5™ addresses this challenge through an innovative emollient complex engineered from renewable sugarcane and upcycled pine terpenes. Its unique multi-molecular alkane architecture, combined with complementary polymeric emollients, acts on three complementary levels:
- Low molecular weight volatile alkanes mimic cyclopentasiloxane by spreading evenly across the hair before evaporating cleanly, for smooth, uniform coverage without residue.
- Mid molecular weight non-volatile alkanes penetrate the cortex to provide long-lasting hydration, while strengthening the hair fibre from within.
- High molecular weight polymeric emollients form a lightweight, flexible film that smooths the cuticle, reduces friction and controls frizz, delivering silicone-like conditioning without any build-up.
"SensoTrue DM5™ demonstrates how biotechnology can open up new possibilities for high-performance, naturally derived hair care ingredients," says Fabrice Lefèvre, Innovation and Marketing Director. "By combining renewable resources, green chemistry and advanced molecular design, we are enabling brands to meet consumer expectations for a premium hair care experience, without compromising on their environmental commitments."
These performance claims are supported by instrumental testing. “SensoTrue DM5™ delivers a significant improvement in hair performance: 60% less wet combing force, 24% less frizz and 42% less flyaway, outperforming both 5 cSt dimethicone and D5 across all three parameters1”, says Ricky Ho, Senior Category Manager.
Consumer testing confirms these instrumental results. Over 85% of women perceived visible efficacy after just one application, up to 88% of women felt their hair was healthier after 10 days, and up to 92% of women expressed high satisfaction with the SensoTrue DM5™ routine2.
Suitable for shampoos, conditioners, hair masks, leave-in treatments and styling products, SensoTrue DM5™ offers formulators broad versatility. Its odourless, colourless and preservative-free profile allows for seamless integration across multiple hair care formats.
SensoTrue DM5™ marks a significant milestone in hair care innovation, combining proven silicone-like performance with a bio-based, upcycled composition, setting a new reference for the next generation of high-performance formulations.
To learn more about SensoTrue DM5™, visit Givaudan Active Beauty’s digital platform dedicated to cosmetic ingredients: https://uxbeauty.givaudan.com/ingredients/permalink/givaudan-sensotrue-dm5
