This year’s in-cosmetics Global, the world’s largest cosmetics ingredients-based trade event, is being held in SPC’s hometown, London, UK, from 4-6 April at the ExCeL venue. In this article, SPC brings you a synopsis of some of the new features, and novel ingredients and services being offered at the eventt
This year’s in-cosmetics Global
exhibition is moving from its usual
continental European location to
take place in London, UK.
Attendees can expect a host of new
concepts and features from the event, which
runs from 4-6 April at ExCeL, including a
Make-up Bar, sponsored by BASF, which will let
visitors try new formulations in the eye, facial,
lip and nail make-up segments.
Also new is Sustainability Corner; this will
display a selection of environmental and social
initiatives to highlight how the industry is
moving beyond mere compliance to a more
fundamentally sustainable model.
Key topics to be discussed in this year’s
seminar programme include digital beauty,
Brexit, sustainability and halal beauty. And
returning features include the Innovation Zone,
the Formulation Lab and the Sensory Bar.
Additionally, the show will bring together 800
exhibitors under one roof. In anticipation of
in-cosmetics Global 2017, SPC asked exhibitors
what they would be focusing on:
AAK will demonstrate the suitability of its Lipex
L’sens and Lipex SheaLight in products for naturally-textured hair. Lipex L’sens is a highly
polar, semi-solid emollient that provides body to
both hair and formulations, while Lipex
SheaLight is a high-spreading, low-viscosity
emollient ester, suitable for cold processing,
sprayable and clear styling formulations.
Active Concepts is presenting ProCutiGen Vegan
Thermal Shield. It prevents the thermally-induced
damage that breaks the cysteine bridges
of the hair, making it porous, weakened and
prone to breakage. Rather than focusing on
repairing broken bonds, ProCutiGen Vegan
Thermal Shield creates a de novo cuticle on the
hair to stop damage happening in the first place.
Ajinomoto will launch new additions to its
aminobeauty family of products: Ajidew N, a
series of natural amino acid-derived humectants;
Amihope OL, an amino acid-derived texture
modifier and functional ingredient; and Amisoft
ECS-22W (glutamic acid-derived) and Amilite
GCK-12H (glycine-derived) anionic surfactants
with excellent foaming and moisturising
properties for sulfate-free cleansing systems.
Alchemy Ingredients will showcase its Sucragel
gel-to-milk technology, which is currently being
buoyed up by Asian trends and ‘low surfactant’
formulations. It will additionally be bringing a
new natural, formulator-led emulsifier system to
in-cosmetics Global. Alchemy is represented in
the UK by Alfa Chemicals.
Aston Chemicals is demonstrating its newest
technologies with a bespoke Formulation Bar.
The 27 Focus Formulations capture recent
trends and future possibilities. Aston will also be
hosting Alzo International and Gale & Cosm on
the Aston stand. Gale & Cosm is an Italian
supplier offering olive oil-derived emulsifiers
and emollients, and 2017 will be its first time
exhibiting at in-cosmetics Global.
Anti-pollution beauty products will be Azelis’
focus over the three days. The distributor will
present concepts for daily-use defence products
that deliver skin renewal, nourishment and
hydration, and act as an antidote to pollution,
stress and fatigue.
In London in April, BASF will present two new
actives. Oligolin is a 100% natural hydrolysed
linseed extract, which acts as an anti-ageing
ingredient in skin care products. In vitro, Oligolin
stimulates epidermis thickness, tones up the
dermal epidermal junction and
re-densifies the dermis. In vivo, it visibly
contributs to a healthier skin and
significantly improves skin hydration and
firmness. Collalift 18, meanwhile, comes
from the bark of African mahogany
(Khaya senegalensis) and has been
developed to improve skin’s elasticity and
visibly reduce pores, lines and wrinkles.
28Extremoin from Bitop is a natural and multifunctional ‘urban protection’ ingredient.
A blend of two stress-protection molecules, ectoin
and hydroxyectoin, it acts before damage occurs,
safeguarding skin’s cells from pollution-induced
damage and ROS formation.
Clariant will unveil the four big new trends
based on its BeautyForward platform, namely:
custom, origin, revive and balance. It will also
unveil its new Active Ingredients business,
which will provide dedicated, expert support
from Toulouse, France. In line with this,
Clariant will launch a new active for indoor
pollution control: Eosidin.
Cornelius is showcasing 20 years of innovation
at in-cosmetics Global 2017. The distributor will
demonstrate key Cornelius formulations created
since the opening of its Cornelius Applications
Laboratory in 1997 and their impact on today’s
personal care market.
Fragrance house CPL Aromas will be unveiling
some significant company changes to coincide
with in-cosmetics Global 2017. The family-owned
business is increasingly focusing on its
fine fragrance division, and this changing
emphasis and repositioning is being supported
with a major rebranding exercise. Its new
identity will be revealed at the exhibition.
Clinical studies specialist Dermscan will be
focusing on the assessment of ageing versus photo-ageing. To demonstrate the activity of
products on UV-accelerated ageing, long-term
studies must be conducted, and Dermscan’s
Tunisia-based facility and partner company in
Mauritius enable Dermscan to offer
manufacturers studies in sunny environments.
dermosoft decalact sebum is the new solution for
oily and blemish-prone skin from Dr. Straetmans.
It is a mild, active-ingredient blend that tackles
multiple skin imperfections simultaneously. An in
vivo study proves a reduction in the excessive
production of sebum, which leads to a decrease
of enlarged and clogged pores.
DSM is launching several new products at this
year’s show. There are two new broad spectrum
ingredients in its Parsol line. Parsol Shield boosts
UVB and UVA protection across the full range of
application forms at low concentrations, while
Parsol Max II continues protection into the blue
light spectrum. For hair styling, Tilamar Fix
A1000 delivers extra-strong hold, while active
PEPHA-Age is designed to stimulate the skin’s
own defences against sunlight.
DUPONT INDUSTRIAL BIOSCIENCES
The latest ingredient by DuPont Industrial
Biosciences is Genencare OSMS MI, a highly
purified myo-inositol, which acts as an
osmoprotectant and moisturiser, but also boosts
the skin cell metabolism to improve skin tonicity.
Floratech’s Floramac 10 is described as a natural,
non-volatile alternative to silicones. Derived from
macadamia, Floramac 10 is a stable,
biodegradable and non-comedogenic emollient
that leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth, and
allows for oil-free and silicone-free claims.
A new active ingredient for the London-based
expo, developed to lift the eye contour area, is
Gatuline Link n Lift from Gattefossé. Obtained
from organic horse chestnut flowers using
NaDES technology – which stands for natural
deep eutectic solvents – Gatuline Link n Lift
restores fibroblast dynamism and acts on the
dermal-epidermal junction to firmly reconnect
the epidermis to the dermis.
GIVAUDAN ACTIVE BEAUTY
At 50, skin needs 44% more time to renew itself
than aged 20. Givaudan’s latest active ingredient is claimed to be the first dedicated to accelerating
the entire skin regeneration process. Derived
from Orobanche rapum, a unique, chlorophyll-free
plant, Revivyl delivers targeted biological action
in all the layers of the skin.
Grant Industries will be demonstrating its
Gransil SBG-11 silicone elastomer system,
containing an advanced shea butter for a variety
of personal care, skin care and colour cosmetic
applications. It will also showcase millennial-inspired
beauty concepts at its stand.
Greenaltech has developed a new natural and
sustainable technology to isolate novel
compounds from the microalgae cell wall. The
first active based on this innovation is Algaktiv
BioSKN, a compound able to outperform
epidermal growth factor on primary keratinocyte
growth and motility. It also demonstrates broad
spectrum prebiotic and probiotic properties.
France’s Greentech plans to introduce an active
that fights the biological damages caused by
pollution, to provide long lasting protection to
the skin. It is said to fight free radical and
inflammatory stresses triggered by repeated
pollution attacks in all its forms thanks to an
action involving the stimulation of cellular anti-free
radical and detoxification pathways, as well
as skin barrier strengthening.
New from Huntsman’s Pigments & Additives
division is Hombitan AFDC 101, a super pure
grade of titanium dioxide. The high purity,
uncoated, anatase grade of TiO2 has a very
narrow particle size distribution that can be used
to improve the opacity of premium cosmetics.
At this year’s show, IBR will showcase several
ingredients, including the overnight recharging
and rejuvenating properties of IBR-Dormin; the
Botox-like activity of IBR-Snowflake; and
the skin brightening effect offered by
Ichimaru Pharcos of Japan will present its
Izayoi UV care active, which inhibits the
damage-associated molecular patterns (or
DAMPs) associated with sun-damaged
keratinocytes, that in turn stimulate an inflammatory response in surrounding
non-damaged cells, as a means of preventing
photoageing. New for 2017 is Ichimaru Pharcos’
Glycerin Natural Active Line, composed of its
plant extracts plus glycerin.
Another ingredients supplier tapping the
anti-pollution movement is ID bio, which will
unveil a botanical active to create an invisible
and breathable layer on the skin to prevent
pollution particle adhesion.
Imerys will be launching two new natural
ingredients for beauty care gels at the show.
ImerCare Opaque is an eco-friendly kaolin
product with an innovative particle shape that
enhances whiteness and opacity in gel
formulations, and gives a rich, creamy texture.
ImerCare Opaline, meanwhile, is a premium
talc grade that confers opacity and a luxurious,
pearlescent effect to gels.
Pharmachem Laboratories’ division Improve
USA is launching Enderma, a new ‘healthy-ageing’
ingredient. The basis of Enderma is aloe
vera, developed using a proprietary production
method, which allows the raw material to be
produced in a gentle, responsible manner that
helps retain its inherent potency.
Vitachelox is the latest active ingredient from
Indena. It is a selection of optimised botanical
compounds that act as anti-pollution agents, skin
protectors and free-radical scavengers.
Ingredion is launching a new range of natural
texturisers and sensory enhancers for personal
care products. A response to consumer demand
for naturals and organics, the Nativacare line
lets manufacturers replace synthetic or
chemically-modified polymers while enhancing
IN VITRO PLANT-TECH
In vitro Plant-tech will be at in-cosmetics Global
explaining to visitors how it can help customers
obtain their own exclusive extracts from in vitro
produced cells, such as plant stem cell extracts.
KUMAR ORGANIC PRODUCTS
Kumar Organic Products will focus on two ingredients. Kopcerin is ethyl hexyl glycerin, a
multifunctional cosmetic ingredient with good
preservative efficacy, and deodorising and skin
care properties. Also promoted is the company’s
Koplactylate, described as an excellent
secondary surfactant that helps to boost the
foaming activity of primary surfactants.
Laboratoire Phenobio will launch its new active
ingredient, Skinvia, a natural extract with
retinol-like activity. The extract shows a strong
modulation of many genes involved in
keratinocyte differentiation, as well as many
genes involved in the generation and
maintenance of the extracellular matrix.
In addition, it shows a down-regulation of
Lambson is showcasing its Vida-Caps Vegetarian
Microencapsulates via a range of new
formulations demonstrating the capabilities of its
patented Vida-Caps core-shell system. Lambson’s
technology removes gelatine from the system and
replaces it with a unique vegetable-derived
alternative. The microencapsulates can be
designed in a range of colours and sizes, from
5-1,500μm to match the application intended.
New from Lipoid Kosmetik will be HerbaShield
URB. A natural solution to pollution, the
botanical active is a self-preserving, three-component
system based on watercress, horsetail
and nettle extracts. The plants’ actives are
embedded in a matrix of phospholipids and
maltodextrin, resulting in an easy-to-use powder
formula. HerbaShield URB has a triple activity,
reducing pollution-induced skin damage,
detoxifying air pollutants and enhancing skin’s
protection versus environmental stress.
The regenerative capacity of the
skin reduces with age, resulting
in thinness and fragility. New
from Lipotec is Reproage
peptide, which assists in
reprograming epidermal basal
cells at the epigenetic level by
targeting microRNA-145, in order
to boost skin’s youthfulness.
Lonza will demonstrate its Ecocert-certified,
naturally-derived surfactant alternative,
Polyaldo 10-1-CC, which forms stable cleansing systems with improved foam properties.
Additionally, it will showcase its Geogard line of
single-active and blended preservatives.
New for 2017, Lucas Meyer is launching Siligel,
a natural gelling agent with a silicone-like skin
feel. A patented, optimised combination of
phospholipids and polysaccharides, Siligel
requires no pre-dispersion even when used in a
cold process, unlike gums.
India’s Mamta Polycoats will offer a wide range
of naturally-sourced ingredients, created using
raw materials transformed via fermentation.
The company will showcase its new ingredient:
adipic acid ester di-isopropyl adipate (DIPA),
said to be ideal for use in sun care formulations.
Mibelle Biochemistry will promote two new
actives. The first, InfraGuard, tackles the effects
of infrared, specifically IRA, on the dermis and
subcutaneous adipose tissue, while the second,
SensAmone P5, is a novel neurocosmetic
ingredient. Sensitive skin is characterised by
overactivity of the TRPV1 receptor, leading to
stinging and itching. A protein in the venom of
sea anemones acts as an inhibitor of this receptor,
but is too large to penetrate the skin. Mibelle has
developed a five amino acid peptide that is
composed of just the TRPV1 inhibitor sequence
of this protein.
New for in-cosmetics Global 2017 from Micro
Powders are Naturesoft 800, an ultra-fine,
biodegradable cellulose powder with superior
binding properties versus zinc stearate and
nylon-12; the Naturescrub H product line of
scrubs in three different mesh size grades; and a
new line of melting waxes for use as rheological
modifiers and structural additives.
Mirexus will demonstrate its PhytoSpherix, a
completely natural form of glycogen, sourced
and produced from plants using a patent-pending
green process in Canada. PhytoSpherix
offers multifunctional benefits, being a powerful
anti-ageing ingredient that increases cellular
metabolism, and promotes collagen and
hyaluronic acid production in skin cells.
New from Nagase is Extremosio, a novel active that reverses the ageing process within skin cells.
Skin autophagy is a naturally occurring detox
process through which damaged cellular
constituents are degraded and continuously
renewed, and Extremosio is designed to provide
a solution to this process’ impairment with age.
New from Naolys is LightWaves Defense
[JS+M], a new plant cell complex made from
native cells of Indian jasmine (Jasminum sambac),
containing not only its own active molecules but
also γ-mangosteen (a natural molecule extracted
from mangosteen) to fight damages induced by
three types of solar rays.
Olvea Burkina Faso, Olvea’s subsidiary,
inaugurated an eco-friendly production unit last
year, enabling the company to launch two new
products in 2017: organic fair trade shea butter
and organic sesame oil.
Omya will highlight its Omyadent and
Omyacare ingredient ranges for dental and skin
PQ Corporation will demonstrate its Sorbosil
BFG10 and BFG50 products: Ecocert-certified,
environmentally friendly silica alternatives to
Protameen is promoting its expanded
manufacturing capacity for customised
manufacturing needs. Its new facility in New
Jersey is dedicated to amidation, esterification,
oxidation, phosphation, quaternisation, blending,
spray drying and flaking.
Provital’s new active, Aquaxtrem, is aimed at a
condition particularly important for people aged over 55: dry and flaky skin. Aquaxtrem
stimulates the skin’s own moisture-balancing
mechanisms. In vivo tests with a formula
containing Aquaxtrem showed an increase in
happiness (measured using FACS analysis)
through hydrated skin and reduced discomfort.
Rahn is launching Defensil-Soft, a neuro balm
that blocks the pain receptor TRPV1. Derived
from the edible mushroom Albatrellus ovinus,
Defensil-Soft reduces skin discomfort and
irritation within minutes; increases the
heat-pain tolerance of normal and
ultra-sensitive skin; prevents IR-ageing by
protecting from infrared-induced heat stress;
and improves the skin’s tolerance towards
irritants in cosmetic formulations.
Sederma will invite attendees into a ‘Matrixyl
Wonderland’, allowing the adventurous to
discover the third generation of peptides for
personal care applications. In 2017, the
company will present a brand new addition to
the Matrixyl Inside peptides range.
STAND HH20 & K50
Seppic will demonstrate its ingredient expertise
via formulation concepts like Perfect Body
Illusion Slimming Foundation Street Spray,
which combines Aquaxyl for moisture and
Adipoless and Adiposlim to prevent orange peel.
Wellagyl and Hairgenyl are the two new products
being launched by Silab at in-cosmetics Global in
2017. Wellagyl is a Bulgarian rose extract,
claimed to enable ‘poorly’ ageing fibroblasts to
acquire the phenotype specific to a ‘well’ ageing
state. For the boosting of hair regrowth,
Hairgenyl helps support the biological activity of
the dermal papilla, stimulating hair follicle
growth and re-normalising hair development.
Sisterna will be introducing three new make-up
formulation ideas with sucrose esters. These are
velvet natural lipstick, natural cream-to-powder
blush and natural fluid foundation (o/w). The
first contains Sisterna A10E-C, a lipidic phase
modifier that improves rheological properties by
increasing the strength of a lipstick, which
influences the melting behaviour positively.
STEPHENSON PERSONAL CARE
Specialty soap bases manufacturer Stephenson Personal Care is putting its 160-plus years of
knowledge and expertise on display at
in-cosmetics Global. As part of this year’s annual
showcase entitled ‘Natural alternatives to
synthetic surfactants’, it will demonstrate
products such as Durosoft, a naturally-derived
range of cold-process emulsifiers.
Sun Chemical will showcase new additions to its
SunShine, SunCroma and Intenza families.
SunShine Mystic Black is a black pearl effect
pigment, said to achieve a unique combination of
‘jetness’, coverage, sparkle and lustre.
New ingredient HydraSynol IDL from Sytheon
has been designed to rebuild skin’s barrier
function by up-regulating key genes, proteins
and lipids; defend skin against oxidative and
inflammatory onslaughts; and enhance skin’s
natural moisture retention mechanisms.
Centella Reversa is the latest active from Vytrus
Biotech, which will be promoted at in-cosmetics
Global in London. A concentrated secretome of
totipotent cells from Centella asiatica petioles, it is
rich in signalling peptides designed to reverse
the skin ageing process.
ZSCHIMMER & SCHWARZ
Green surfactants will be demonstrated at the
Zschimmer & Schwarz stand. First up is a new
addition to the Sebumol WO line-up. Sebumol
WO 350 has identical properties to the
polyglycerol ester blend Sebumol WO; however,
it is solvent- and preservative-free. Also new are
two green products in Zschimmer & Schwartz’s
bath and shower blends portfolio.
SPC and representatives from the other
publications in the Cosmetics Business family,
Cosmetics Business News, Cosmetics Business Markets
and Pure Beauty, will be at in-cosmetics Global.
Please stop by to visit us on stand S74.