Monte Carlo or bust


From 27-29 October prestige packaging event Luxe Pack Monaco returns to the Grimaldi Forum. This year's focus is on formulation

Luxe Pack has long been a hub for prestige cosmetics and fragrance companies sourcing innovative packaging. But this year the winds of change have been at work and Luxe Pack is, for the first time, opening its doors to formulators, subcontractors and full service providers.

A full service

The event, which returns to the Grimaldi Forum in Monaco from 27-29 October, will feature a new Luxe formulation area, which Luxe Pack organisers say will create an exclusive platform for professionals offering standard or customised formulation, packaging, filling, full service, private label and associated services. 

“At a time when the packaging-content correlation is increasingly strong and increasingly strategic, the creation of this new space at the world trade fair for creative packaging seemed vital to us. Luxe formulation offers a genuine visitor bonus for all the perfumery and cosmetics brands attending the trade fair every year,” explains Luxe Pack Monaco’s Managing Director, Nathalie Grosdidier.

The additional area will be located in a new pavilion (Hall Gênois) and will feature a programme of workshops, conferences and dedicated roundtables, addressing technical and regulatory questions, and topics linked to innovation. Within Luxe formulation there will be a Sensory Studio by Capsum, where the company will demonstrate the manufacture of its oil and water-containing ‘double core pearls’, incorporating different ingredients and colours.

Exhibitors include Arnest, Discos, Emma Health & Beauty Care, HCT Group, Lady Burd Cosmetics, Lorcos, Parfum Cosmetic World, Raphaël make-up brushes, Sicaf, Sofia Cosmetiques and Strand Cosmetics Europe.

Other firsts at Luxe Pack Monaco in 2014 include a multi-sensory experience to highlight the importance of the sensual in packaging design, created in collaboration with innovative start-up Myrissi. The Myrissi space in Hall Atrium will let visitors experience unique coloured representation of odours, according to Luxe Pack’s organisers.

Meanwhile, the exciting opportunities offered by the increasing accessibility of 3D printing will be highlighted via an interactive 3D Print Area, hosted by 3D Prod.

Returning favourites

Following its launch in 2013, post-show trends guide Luxe Pack Essentials has established itself as a valuable element of Luxe Pack Monaco and will return in 2014. Compiled by industry experts Marc Rosen, Geraldine Bouchot and Daniela Walker, the free guide will highlight new products, technical innovations and know-how.

Recognising innovation in sustainable prestige packaging, the Luxe Pack in green Award will also be back. A jury made up of French National Packaging Council President Michel Fontaine; Cécile Lochard, CEO of Citizen Luxury; Daniel Saclier and Sandrine Sommer of Guerlain; Pernod’s Marie-Laurence Truchon-Bartes; and Stefano Lavorini, CEO of Italia Imballaggio will choose the strongest environmental initiative and the winning exhibitor will receive a trophy created by design agency Chic at a ceremony which takes place Monday 27 October at 17:45 in the conference room in Hall Atrium.

A dedicated Luxe Pack in green Showcase will demonstrate the best environmentally friendly packaging from exhibitors in 2014. Meanwhile, the Luxe Pack forum innovation will offer a platform for new products and applications. The two showcases will be co-located in Hall Atrium. 

The 9th Package Design Magazine’s Makeover Challenge will see four design firms – Base Beauty Creative Agency, Envision Creative Group, Spring Design Partners and Zunda Group – re-imagine the new Kelly Quan New York premium cosmetics brush and beauty tool line. The organisers say the challenge will lie in distinguishing a premium line of products while retaining a cohesive brand look.

<i>   Luxe Pack Monaco 2014 takes place from 27-29 October and will for the first time feature a platform for formulators, subcontractors and full service providers</i>

Luxe Pack Monaco 2014 takes place from 27-29 October and will for the first time feature a platform for formulators, subcontractors and full service providers

Conference line-up

The programme of conferences and roundtables kicks off at 10:30 on Monday 27 October with ‘Smart packaging’, a roundtable organised by Françoise Albasini, Editor in Chief of Emballages Digest, which will look at new technologies applicable to packaging.

This will be followed at 14:00 by a talk from Muriel Jacquot, Scientific Director of Myrissi and Director of the InnoCIM project at the University of Lorraine, entitled ‘Because luxury is above all a thing of the senses’. Jacquot will discuss how each visual element of the packaging contributes to a mental representation of the product, asking how brands can optimise product communication more efficiently. The presentation will also be accompanied by the presentation of a new, world exclusive tool which makes it possible to control the suggestive power of colour and scent.

Meanwhile, at 15:00, the guest of honour, designer Patrick Jouin, will take to the stage, and from 16:15, Sommer, Director of Sustainable Development at Guerlain, will chair a roundtable entitled ‘Responsible purchasing: what are the specifics for the luxury sector and what benefits can be expected?’ The team of experts will grapple with the question: what criteria should be used from an environmental, social and economic point of view to influence the choice of suppliers and products when it comes to packaging? The Luxe Pack in green Award Ceremony will round off proceedings on day one.

Day two will begin with ‘Luxury culture in China: keys and prospects’, a roundtable taking place at 09:30 and organised by Jonathan Siboni, CEO of LuxuryInsight and author of Money, Fortunes and Luxury in China. Beginning with the historical culture of luxury in China, the discussion will ask: who are China’s super rich, and what are their mentalities and modes of consumption?

Another roundtable ‘Putting a face to products – the interaction between creation and branding’ will be led by Ute Von Buch, Editor in Chief of Creativ Verpacken, starting 11:00.

The afternoon’s line-up begins at 14:00 with a discussion entitled ‘For packaging creativity that is in line with the brand DNA: the emblematic example of Cartier’ chaired by Alain Caradeuc, CEO of Valeurs d’Excellence and Director of Imprim’Luxe, followed by a presentation from Fflur Roberts, Head of Luxury Goods at Euromonitor International, discussing the ‘Outlook for global luxury goods and packaging industry worldwide (2009-19)’. Roberts will demonstrate how the global picture of wealth is rapidly changing and question whether developments in packaging have been successfully explored in order to meet the needs of these new luxury frontiers.

Finally, Frédéric Allard, founder of Zesmallfactory, will chair a roundtable called ‘3D print for the packaging industry: assets and stakes’. The discussion will ask what are the strengths of 3D printing, and how can 3D printing help reduce time to market?

The conference programme continues on Wednesday 29 October at 10:00 with the popular Luxe Pack trends observer panel, which unpicks the latest packaging trends and influences, encompassing forms, colours, graphics and emerging behaviours. This year’s panel is made up of Béatrice Mariotti, Vice President of Carré Noir; Sylvie Marc, designer and ENSAAMA Professor; Isabelle Musnik, Content and Editorial Manager, INfluencia; Rémy Oudghiri, Director of the Departments of Corporate Study and Trends & Future Studies at IPSOS Public Affairs; and sociologist Alain Quémin, Professor of Sociology for Art and Luxury Goods, Exceptional Class, at Paris 8 University.

At 11:15 Gilles Gauthier leads a roundtable called ‘A new sensory dimension for packaging’, intended to call into question our sensory and visual habits. Fun concepts explored include how to obtain a plant-like feel; creating prototype textures with 3D lasers; 3D printing for production facilities; and the illusion of metal using plastics.

<i>The inaugural Luxe formulation expo  within an expo will take place in Hall  Gênois; meanwhile, returning Luxe Pack  features include Luxe Pack in green  and Luxe Pack forum innovation</i>

The inaugural Luxe formulation expo within an expo will take place in Hall Gênois; meanwhile, returning Luxe Pack features include Luxe Pack in green and Luxe Pack forum innovation

Meanwhile, ‘Luxury consumption modes worldwide: the impact of religions’ at 14:00 by Pascal Morand, Deputy Managing Director of the Paris Ile-de-France Regional Chamber of Commerce and Industry, will look at the direct and indirect influences religion has on the consumption of luxury goods. In particular, it will delve into the relationship between religion and wealth, ostentation, refinement and sensual pleasure in order to decode luxury goods consumption modes worldwide. 

The final presentation of the three days is ‘Digitalising luxury packaging’ by Uché Okonkwo, founder and Executive Director of Luxe Corp. Okonkwo will discover how brands can ‘wow’ customers by integrating digital tools such as motion design, interactivity, 3D projections and forensic water-marking.

The conference area in Hall Gênois will house the conference programme for Luxe formulation. Beginning Monday 27 October at 11:00, the programme begins with a roundtable on ‘Limiting the risks of container-contents interaction: transmitting information along the value chain, for controlling the health and security of packaging’. Organised by Han-Paul Bodifee, Chairman of the Pole PASS business cluster, the debate will look at obligations concerning packaging materials that come into direct contact with cosmetic and food products.

This will be followed by ‘Chemical physics and cosmetic formulation: the art of understanding products’ by Professor Véronique Nardello-Rataj from Lille 1 University. Taking place at 15:00, the lecture will show attendees how the chemical-physical characteristics of the raw materials and formulated systems meet the functions expected of them by consumers.   

Tuesday’s Luxe formulation line-up begins at 11:00 with the roundtable ‘Good practices in cosmetics manufacturing: what are the impacts for the industry’. Chaired by Jean-Marc Giroux, CEO of COSMED, it will look at Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP) for cosmetics as laid out by the European Regulations and the ISO and ask how we can ensure compliance with the GMPs when subcontracting.

The 15:00 session will be delivered by Lan Vu and Laura Perryman from Beautystreams, and will focus on ‘Autumn-winter 2015-16 forecast: colour and texture directions for the beauty industry’. 

Finally, day three will round off proceedings with a roundtable on the ‘Successful formulation of biosourced ingredients’ chaired by journalist and expert Sylvie Latieule. It will ask: do natural raw materials always meet performance demands and are they easy to formulate? And Nicola Pozzani, Global Fragrance Lecturer and Consultant at S Sense, The Senses of Perfume, will discuss ‘Niche perfumes DNA’, exploring how smell, vision and touch contribute to the formulation of niche creations.

A concurrent series of workshops will shed light on topics including ‘Natural preservatives from Mediterranean plants’; ‘Key stages to develop a cosmetic brand’; ‘Multi-sensoriality in the service of luxury formulation’; and ‘Full service solutions made secure by industrial mindset’.

First time exhibitors

Luxe Pack Monaco 2014 will welcome around 400 exhibitors, 48% of which will hail from France, 43% from Europe and 9% from outside of Europe. In total, there will be exhibitors from 28 different countries globally.

Nearly a quarter of exhibitors (24.7%) operate in paper and cardboard packaging, while 19% produce plastic packaging materials. A total of 11.7% of companies at the event will showcase finishing, decoration, corsetry and foils; 11% will offer materials including wood, metal, leather, ceramic, porcelain and lacquer; and 9% specialise in glass. Labels and ribbons account for 7%; pouches and bags for 4.7%; closures and frets for 3.7%; and designers and design agencies for 3%. There will also be companies specialising in samples, single doses, models, foams, POS, pigments and contract packaging.  

<i>Capsum’s Sensory Studio will demonstrate the manufacture of its ‘double core pearls’ – made of oil and water – while 7% of exhibitors due at 2014’s event work in labels and ribbons. The most represented packaging at Luxe Pack, however, will be paper and card</i>

Capsum’s Sensory Studio will demonstrate the manufacture of its ‘double core pearls’ – made of oil and water – while 7% of exhibitors due at 2014’s event work in labels and ribbons. The most represented packaging at Luxe Pack, however, will be paper and card

Among these will be 32 companies which are exhibiting for the first time. Of these, 16% are from the US and Asia, indicating that global companies are increasingly turning their attention to the Europe-based show, which has also New York- and Shanghai-based editions.

Among the newcomers are Digital Packaging, which prints and personalises packaging on any materials; Easysnap, which has developed a mono-dose sachet that can be opened with one hand; an Italian company specialised in producing finely crafted engravings on metal labels, Fotomecanica; Preciosia, a Czech firm known for its pearls, caps and other products made of glass and crystals; luxury labels provider Printing Berjon; Italstereo, an Italian company specialising in resin labels, self adhesive seals and wax seals; Vista Alegre Atlantis, a Portuguese crystal company; Italy-based Cosmotec, which creates caps and accessories; bottle manufacturer Novapack; French jewellery company Ateliers Tamalet, which now offers jewellery-inspired finishing for the perfumery sector; and Landgraf, which prints batch decals for glass, earthenware, porcelain, ceramic and enamel.

Guest of honour

At the 27th edition of Luxe Pack Monaco, the guest of honour will be designer Patrick Jouin. Jouin has held creative roles in both industrial design and the world of luxury goods, working alongside names including furniture makers Fermob, Cassina, Kartell, kitchen utensil company Alessi and French cutler Puiforcat, to name but a few. He has also been the subject of exhibitions at the Pompidou Centre, Compasso d’Oro and New York’s MOMA.

Jouin will take to the stage at 15:00 on Monday 27 October in a discussion with Anne-Marie Sargueil, President of the French Design Institute, titled: ‘Luxury is all about sensation – we are simply designing experience’. The talk will discuss how to keep aesthetics alive and remain ahead of the curve, striking a balance between aesthetics and ethics when looking at sustainable development, and the importance of listening and dialogue; Jouin asserts that “inspiration is born out of discussion”.

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