Determining which microbiome-related skin issues can be addressed with cosmetics is complex. Dr Tatiana Sergeenko, Dr Helena Eixarch and Dr Leslie Patton explain how we can test within the regulations
Using regulatory understanding to inform early decision making reduces commercial risk
When fashion and lifestyle magazine Vogue ran the article ‘Why You Need to Start Paying Attention to Your Skin Microbiome – Especially Now’ in March 2021, it was clear that microbiome-based skin care had hit the mainstream. It is poised to become a hugely significant category for skin care during the 2020s. Compound annual growth for skin microbiome modulators is forecast at 16.9%, which will take global market value from US$623.7m in 2020 to $2.97bn by 2030.
Microbiome-based skin care covers everything from mass-produced ‘biome-friendly’ products to personalised premium offerings, which involve a high-precision diagnostic element.
The category is ripe for innovation and input from various disciplines is required. This extends beyond the science and technology expertise necessary to formulate skin care products and develop diagnostic tools. It’s also important to bring regulatory insight to the innovation process.
For instance, skin diseases such as eczema and psoriasis are associated with microbiome perturbations, as are overproduction of sebum and breakouts. However, products that claim or intend to treat these conditions fall under the jurisdiction of medical regulations, not cosmetics regulations, in many markets.
Determining which microbiome-related skin issues can be addressed with cosmetics can be a complex matter. Using regulatory understanding to inform and shape early decision making reduces commercial risk and can accelerate the development of compliant cosmetic products....
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